How to Fix Stuff

CMD-Ky

Highly Esteemed Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 15, 2013
5,321
42,395
KY
A repeater would not be an option for you. You lose bandwidth and what comes out of the repeater would be a pittance. An AP loses no bandwidth so if you wanted to extend coverage in your house you'd have to go with a bridge (access point).

The design and construction gives us nearly uniform coverage, range is not our problem. I mentioned my 'solutions' in case others might find themselves saddled with slow internet for which there are limited solutions.
 

Bronze

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 19, 2012
40,240
187,930
Ours is 'high speed' DSL internet from Windstream, a phone company that gives you two cans and a string. I would find paying for 200 - 300 Mbps most difficult especially since 5.0 Mbps meets all of our needs.
I have a neighbor (across the street and one over) with a two story house. They were always complaining about signal drops (they had 100 mbps like me, same ISP). Instead of extending house coverage they just upped their package to 200 mbps. They pay a bit more for it. It was strong enough that I was picking up their signal and it was nearly as strong as what I had in my house.
 

Bronze

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 19, 2012
40,240
187,930
The design and construction gives us nearly uniform coverage, range is not our problem. I mentioned my 'solutions' in case others might find themselves saddled with slow internet for which there are limited solutions.
We have only one serious internet option here...our cable company. It's high quality but they have us by the short hairs because there is no real alternative. I think we have DSL (or had it at one time) but it's worthless. I think we have Hughes too but like you say it is prohibitive. So the cable company basically has two prices for their internet packages. One if you bundle it with their cable or phone service and another if you want internet service alone. Naturally, the price skyrockets when you get it standalone. It's a ripoff! Wish we had competition.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: CMD-Ky

CMD-Ky

Highly Esteemed Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 15, 2013
5,321
42,395
KY
I have a neighbor (across the street and one over) with a two story house. They were always complaining about signal drops (they had 100 mbps like me, same ISP). Instead of extending house coverage they just upped their package to 200 mbps. They pay a bit more for it. It was strong enough that I was picking up their signal and it was nearly as strong as what I had in my house.
Ask for their passwords for experimental purposes only.
 

CMD-Ky

Highly Esteemed Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 15, 2013
5,321
42,395
KY
We have only one serious internet option here...our cable company. It's high quality but they have us by the short hairs because there is no real alternative. I think we have DSL (or had it at one time) but it's worthless. I think we have Hughes too but like you say it is prohibitive. So the cable company basically has two prices for their internet packages. One if you bundle it with their cable or phone service and another if you want internet service alone. Naturally, the price skyrockets when you get it standalone. It's a ripoff! Wish we had competition.

Do they have an exclusive contract with your municipality? If so, make your self a pain in the mule you showed us. These chowderheads think they have an exclusive unregulated monopoly. But, like Uncle Joe, the fix is most likely in, but I hate these people.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bronze

hittman

ECF Guru
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Contest Winner!
  • Jul 13, 2009
    61,603
    179,978
    Somewhere between here and there
    We have fiber in the area but not in my neighborhood.

    I don’t have proof but when I was trying to decide who to go with, google told me that the line going into each house was a dedicated 1000mb service where with cable companies and such you are sharing X amount of bandwidth with neighbors. I know with Spectrum we were told we were getting 100mb service but I never got much over 35mb on speed tests with a hardwired connection. The WiFi was erratic and spotty which is why I switched. I could tell that the WiFi dropped several times a day because our printer was connected through the WiFi and every time we tried to print from a laptop or phone I had to go in and power cycle the printer so it would pick the WiFi back up.
     

    Bronze

    ECF Guru
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Aug 19, 2012
    40,240
    187,930
    Ask for their passwords for experimental purposes only.
    My wife dog sits over there so her laptop and kindle already had their password locked in so she had no trouble linking up with it from our house. :)

    Do they have an exclusive contract with your municipality? If so, make your self a pain in the mule you showed us. These chowderheads think they have an exclusive unregulated monopoly. But, like Uncle Joe, the fix is most likely in, but I hate these people.
    No municipality contract.

    I don’t have proof but when I was trying to decide who to go with, google told me that the line going into each house was a dedicated 1000mb service where with cable companies and such you are sharing X amount of bandwidth with neighbors. I know with Spectrum we were told we were getting 100mb service but I never got much over 35mb on speed tests with a hardwired connection. The WiFi was erratic and spotty which is why I switched. I could tell that the WiFi dropped several times a day because our printer was connected through the WiFi and every time we tried to print from a laptop or phone I had to go in and power cycle the printer so it would pick the WiFi back up.
    I have Spectrum 100 mbps service too. Historically I got 115 - 120 mbps (hardwired). But this past year I noticed I'm more like 90-95. Of course this drops with wifi.
     

    r77r7r

    ECF Guru
    ECF Veteran
  • Feb 15, 2011
    13,653
    22,632
    Pa,LandOfTaxes
    We have only one serious internet option here...our cable company. It's high quality but they have us by the short hairs because there is no real alternative. I think we have DSL (or had it at one time) but it's worthless. I think we have Hughes too but like you say it is prohibitive. So the cable company basically has two prices for their internet packages. One if you bundle it with their cable or phone service and another if you want internet service alone. Naturally, the price skyrockets when you get it standalone. It's a ripoff! Wish we had competition.
    Same here. They forced a combination package with 20 cable channels. Had to call a few days ago and got them to deduct 20$ off. Waiting for t mobile home internet or Musk's satellite service.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Bronze

    hittman

    ECF Guru
    Supporting Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Contest Winner!
  • Jul 13, 2009
    61,603
    179,978
    Somewhere between here and there
    My wife dog sits over there so her laptop and kindle already had their password locked in so she had no trouble linking up with it from our house. :)

    No municipality contract.

    I have Spectrum 100 mbps service too. Historically I got 115 - 120 mbps (hardwired). But this past year I noticed I'm more like 90-95. Of course this drops with wifi.

    You’re lucky to be getting that. Spectrum here is horrible. I see negative comments on Nextdoor all the time.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Bronze

    markfm

    Aussie Pup Wrangler
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Jul 9, 2010
    15,268
    45,866
    Beautiful Baldwinsville (CNY)
    2 or 3 years ago FiOS did a small extension into our area, I jumped on it immediately. I'd come to loathe Time Warner (this was just when the merger was going on, immediately before the name change to Spectrum).

    Not super cheap, but reliable service and they haven't been obnoxious on pricing.

    I want to get broadband to our camp this Spring, so I can work from home there. Unfortunately Spectrum is the only choice there. They have lines in the area (neighbors are connected).

    At our main house internet only from Spectrum would be $45/mo with a 2 yr price lock. If we can get something like that at camp I'd gladly sign up. I'd definitely buy a new router for there, rather than pay their rental fees, though poking about for a decent WiFi modem is always fun [emoji3]
     

    Brewdawg1181

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Aug 30, 2017
    3,910
    14,716
    Metro ATL
    Not really fixing anything, but figured I'd post about my latest projects, in case it inspires someone to save $ and do it themselves. We bought our house in 2005, and stained millwork was the thing. Builder messed up- kitchen cabinets were supposed to be maple, almost neutral stain. He put in alder, and with the stain we picked, it came out WAY too dark. He gave us a big credit, which we took rather than delay closing to replace them. Wife hated it from day one, and I wasn't too fond of it either. But I was really hesitant to paint over beautiful wood, even if it wasn't what I wanted. But then I saw how much better a neighbor's kitchen looked after going white, and it made me think it'd be like hanging on to the "beautiful" wood paneled dens of the 60's and 70's.

    Anyway, I got a quote a couple of years ago to paint the cabinets. About $5,800!!! I wasn't about to pay anyone that much to paint anything smaller than a house. So I researched best paints, and an affordable HVLP sprayer. Did it myself, and it came out better than what neighbors were paying for. Cost me about $250, with a $100 sprayer, $50 spray tent, and another hundred in paint, primer, tape, sanding sponges, etc. And with what was left over, I was also able to do my master vanity last week, which was finished poorly to begin with.
    upload_2021-1-31_14-3-9.png

    upload_2021-1-31_14-4-40.png


    A couple of things I learned:
    • Sherwin Williams Pro Classic waterborne acrylic is an awesome product. Even on the parts that were brushed or rolled, it truly came out like a factory finish. Flows beautifully. Easy to work with (but you have to work fast and then leave it alone). Tough as nails, too, after curing. Kitchen has been done over a year, and still looks perfect.
    • Roll the primer (I didn't in the kitchen). It doesn't flow like the paint, and will be the source of any brush marks if you don't spend a lot of time sanding it. And BIN is much easier to work with than Zinsser Cover Stain, which I used first in the kitchen. Never needed to sand it- just a wipe with green abrasive pad to take off any boogers.
    • TSP, then deglosser, and only sand any areas with chips or damage. Then I vacuumed, and microfiber has become the choice of woodworkers over tack cloth.
    • Whizz rollers work fantastic for jobs like this. Honestly, if I'd have know how well they work, I probably wouldn't have even bought a sprayer. Incredibly fast, too- and you only need to brush crevices and tight areas when using these.
     
    Last edited:

    hittman

    ECF Guru
    Supporting Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Contest Winner!
  • Jul 13, 2009
    61,603
    179,978
    Somewhere between here and there
    Not really fixing anything, but figured I'd post about my latest projects, in case it inspires someone to save $ and do it themselves. We bought our house in 2005, and stained millwork was the thing. Builder messed up- kitchen cabinets were supposed to be maple, almost neutral stain. He put in alder, and with the stain we picked, it came out WAY too dark. He gave us a big credit, which we took rather than delay closing to replace them. Wife hated it from day one, and I wasn't too fond of it either. But I was really hesitant to paint over beautiful wood, even if it wasn't what I wanted. But then I saw how much better a neighbor's kitchen looked after going white, and it made me think it'd be like hanging on to the "beautiful" wood paneled dens of the 60's and 70's.

    Anyway, I got a quote a couple of years ago to paint the cabinets. About $5,800!!! I wasn't about to pay anyone that much to paint anything smaller than a house. So I researched best paints, and an affordable HVLP sprayer. Did it myself, and it came out better than what neighbors were paying for. Cost me about $250, with a $100 sprayer, $50 spray tent, and another hundred in paint, primer, tape, sanding sponges, etc. And with what was left over, I was also able to do my master vanity last week, which was finished poorly to begin with.
    View attachment 928369
    View attachment 928391

    A couple of things I learned:
    • Sherwin Williams Pro Classic waterborne acrylic is an awesome product. Even on the parts that were brushed or rolled, it truly came out like a factory finish. Flows beautifully. Easy to work with (but you have to work fast and then leave it alone). Tough as nails, too, after curing. Kitchen has been done over a year, and still looks perfect.
    • Roll the primer. It doesn't flow like the paint, and will be the source of any brush marks if you don't spend a lot of time sanding it. And BIN is much easier to work with than Zinsser Cover Stain, which I used first in the kitchen. Never needed to sand it- just a wipe with green abrasive pad to take off any boogers.
    • TSP, then deglosser, and only sand any areas with chips or damage. Then I vacuumed, and microfiber has become the choice of woodworkers over tack cloth.
    • Whizz rollers work fantastic for jobs like this. Honestly, if I'd have know how well they work, I probably wouldn't have even bought a sprayer. Incredibly fast, too- and you only need to brush crevices and tight areas when using these.

    Looks great! Could you come and do ours?
     

    zoiDman

    My -0^10 = Nothing at All*
    Supporting Member
    ECF Veteran
    Apr 16, 2010
    41,622
    1
    84,747
    So-Cal
    Not really fixing anything, but figured I'd post about my latest projects, in case it inspires someone to save $ and do it themselves. We bought our house in 2005, and stained millwork was the thing. Builder messed up- kitchen cabinets were supposed to be maple, almost neutral stain. He put in alder, and with the stain we picked, it came out WAY too dark. He gave us a big credit, which we took rather than delay closing to replace them. Wife hated it from day one, and I wasn't too fond of it either. But I was really hesitant to paint over beautiful wood, even if it wasn't what I wanted. But then I saw how much better a neighbor's kitchen looked after going white, and it made me think it'd be like hanging on to the "beautiful" wood paneled dens of the 60's and 70's.

    Anyway, I got a quote a couple of years ago to paint the cabinets. About $5,800!!! I wasn't about to pay anyone that much to paint anything smaller than a house. So I researched best paints, and an affordable HVLP sprayer. Did it myself, and it came out better than what neighbors were paying for. Cost me about $250, with a $100 sprayer, $50 spray tent, and another hundred in paint, primer, tape, sanding sponges, etc. And with what was left over, I was also able to do my master vanity last week, which was finished poorly to begin with.
    View attachment 928369
    View attachment 928391

    A couple of things I learned:
    • Sherwin Williams Pro Classic waterborne acrylic is an awesome product. Even on the parts that were brushed or rolled, it truly came out like a factory finish. Flows beautifully. Easy to work with (but you have to work fast and then leave it alone). Tough as nails, too, after curing. Kitchen has been done over a year, and still looks perfect.
    • Roll the primer (I didn't in the kitchen). It doesn't flow like the paint, and will be the source of any brush marks if you don't spend a lot of time sanding it. And BIN is much easier to work with than Zinsser Cover Stain, which I used first in the kitchen. Never needed to sand it- just a wipe with green abrasive pad to take off any boogers.
    • TSP, then deglosser, and only sand any areas with chips or damage. Then I vacuumed, and microfiber has become the choice of woodworkers over tack cloth.
    • Whizz rollers work fantastic for jobs like this. Honestly, if I'd have know how well they work, I probably wouldn't have even bought a sprayer. Incredibly fast, too- and you only need to brush crevices and tight areas when using these.

    Great Job.

    Isn't it Cool to be able to stand back and say... "I Did this! And it turned out Great!".
     

    Bronze

    ECF Guru
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Aug 19, 2012
    40,240
    187,930
    Not really fixing anything, but figured I'd post about my latest projects, in case it inspires someone to save $ and do it themselves. We bought our house in 2005, and stained millwork was the thing. Builder messed up- kitchen cabinets were supposed to be maple, almost neutral stain. He put in alder, and with the stain we picked, it came out WAY too dark. He gave us a big credit, which we took rather than delay closing to replace them. Wife hated it from day one, and I wasn't too fond of it either. But I was really hesitant to paint over beautiful wood, even if it wasn't what I wanted. But then I saw how much better a neighbor's kitchen looked after going white, and it made me think it'd be like hanging on to the "beautiful" wood paneled dens of the 60's and 70's.

    Anyway, I got a quote a couple of years ago to paint the cabinets. About $5,800!!! I wasn't about to pay anyone that much to paint anything smaller than a house. So I researched best paints, and an affordable HVLP sprayer. Did it myself, and it came out better than what neighbors were paying for. Cost me about $250, with a $100 sprayer, $50 spray tent, and another hundred in paint, primer, tape, sanding sponges, etc. And with what was left over, I was also able to do my master vanity last week, which was finished poorly to begin with.
    View attachment 928369
    View attachment 928391

    A couple of things I learned:
    • Sherwin Williams Pro Classic waterborne acrylic is an awesome product. Even on the parts that were brushed or rolled, it truly came out like a factory finish. Flows beautifully. Easy to work with (but you have to work fast and then leave it alone). Tough as nails, too, after curing. Kitchen has been done over a year, and still looks perfect.
    • Roll the primer (I didn't in the kitchen). It doesn't flow like the paint, and will be the source of any brush marks if you don't spend a lot of time sanding it. And BIN is much easier to work with than Zinsser Cover Stain, which I used first in the kitchen. Never needed to sand it- just a wipe with green abrasive pad to take off any boogers.
    • TSP, then deglosser, and only sand any areas with chips or damage. Then I vacuumed, and microfiber has become the choice of woodworkers over tack cloth.
    • Whizz rollers work fantastic for jobs like this. Honestly, if I'd have know how well they work, I probably wouldn't have even bought a sprayer. Incredibly fast, too- and you only need to brush crevices and tight areas when using these.
    Nice improvement to be sure.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Brewdawg1181

    newyork13

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Nov 9, 2013
    4,410
    21,205
    western Massachusetts
    Not really fixing anything, but figured I'd post about my latest projects, in case it inspires someone to save $ and do it themselves. We bought our house in 2005, and stained millwork was the thing. Builder messed up- kitchen cabinets were supposed to be maple, almost neutral stain. He put in alder, and with the stain we picked, it came out WAY too dark. He gave us a big credit, which we took rather than delay closing to replace them. Wife hated it from day one, and I wasn't too fond of it either. But I was really hesitant to paint over beautiful wood, even if it wasn't what I wanted. But then I saw how much better a neighbor's kitchen looked after going white, and it made me think it'd be like hanging on to the "beautiful" wood paneled dens of the 60's and 70's.

    Anyway, I got a quote a couple of years ago to paint the cabinets. About $5,800!!! I wasn't about to pay anyone that much to paint anything smaller than a house. So I researched best paints, and an affordable HVLP sprayer. Did it myself, and it came out better than what neighbors were paying for. Cost me about $250, with a $100 sprayer, $50 spray tent, and another hundred in paint, primer, tape, sanding sponges, etc. And with what was left over, I was also able to do my master vanity last week, which was finished poorly to begin with.
    View attachment 928369
    View attachment 928391

    A couple of things I learned:
    • Sherwin Williams Pro Classic waterborne acrylic is an awesome product. Even on the parts that were brushed or rolled, it truly came out like a factory finish. Flows beautifully. Easy to work with (but you have to work fast and then leave it alone). Tough as nails, too, after curing. Kitchen has been done over a year, and still looks perfect.
    • Roll the primer (I didn't in the kitchen). It doesn't flow like the paint, and will be the source of any brush marks if you don't spend a lot of time sanding it. And BIN is much easier to work with than Zinsser Cover Stain, which I used first in the kitchen. Never needed to sand it- just a wipe with green abrasive pad to take off any boogers.
    • TSP, then deglosser, and only sand any areas with chips or damage. Then I vacuumed, and microfiber has become the choice of woodworkers over tack cloth.
    • Whizz rollers work fantastic for jobs like this. Honestly, if I'd have know how well they work, I probably wouldn't have even bought a sprayer. Incredibly fast, too- and you only need to brush crevices and tight areas when using these.
    I've always leaned toward wood stained wood.
    But, that white kitchen looks great!
     

    Brewdawg1181

    Vaping Master
    ECF Veteran
    Aug 30, 2017
    3,910
    14,716
    Metro ATL
    I've always leaned toward wood stained wood.
    But, that white kitchen looks great!
    I'm with you. If they'd have been a natural maple, no way I'd have ever caved. The bathroom? Well, let's just say if I ever do another new home, cabinets will be shop, rather than site finished. I don't know if it was humidity, bad finish mat'l, or what...but they looked beat up within a couple of years. I hated to do those- I loved the look, but had already repaired multiple times, and even sanded and recoated with satin poly a couple of years before. Couldn't make them work and last. The other stained work in the house stays until I die. Or move.
     

    Users who are viewing this thread