How to make a 5V mod with a TI regulator.

[jfdpl686]

Thank you for your help! Got it.
I have the madvapes caps but those do not show +/- so I'll play safe and oder some of the ones shown in the page you linked.

Yeah, all my boxes have the on/off at the -, I was thinking to use it at the + just to make my life easier; but I'll play safe too and locate it at the - terminal

I will be using a long thin box for two 16340 in series with juice bottle and horn switch at top near the atty. So better be safe and solder more than try to find corners.

Thanks for your help!

 

[jfdpl686]

One more question...
The LDO I have is the madvapes small one:
LDO 5 volt, 3.0 amp regulator, D2Pak3

The ground pin is cut! How do you suppose to make the negative connection in this short leg? I wanted to use a circuit board, but I'm guessing I cant...

Any suggestions?

 

[derek88]

Run a short wire to the ground and into the correct PCB rail? at least how I had to do mine when i snapped one off a 4 leg regulator

 

[WillyB]

One more question...
The LDO I have is the madvapes small one:
LDO 5 volt, 3.0 amp regulator, D2Pak3

The ground pin is cut! How do you suppose to make the negative connection in this short leg? I wanted to use a circuit board, but I'm guessing I cant...

Any suggestions?

I wouldn't even bother with that one. The specs are rather poor. For 5V operation looks like you'll need too much voltage before it drops out. You'll get shortened run times.

TA = 25°C (Vin = 6.5 V to 7.0 V, Iout = 10 mA to 3.0 A)

Compare that to a TI which is still providing 5V with the batts at 5.5V.

 

[DenniZ]

One more question...
The LDO I have is the madvapes small one:
LDO 5 volt, 3.0 amp regulator, D2Pak3

The ground pin is cut! How do you suppose to make the negative connection in this short leg? I wanted to use a circuit board, but I'm guessing I cant...

Any suggestions?

The ground pin looks shorter from the factory. If you choose to go ahead with the build use Derek's advice.
Here are some things that I do to make small precision connections:
1.) Clean up the soldering iron before beginning. I let it warm up and take a utility knife to it at a 45 degree angle scraping down and away to remove carbon and excess solder.
2.) "Tin" the tip. This means placing a small amount of solder on the iron, this increases the rate of heat transfer from the iron to the component. Don't aim to have a drop of solder on the tip, rather you are looking for a thin coating.
3.) Before making the final connection, I solder the individual components by themselves. On the wire you are looking to have the solder run down the exposed wire to the insulation. I do the same for the pin I'm trying to connect it to.
4.) Clean up any excess solder on the tip of the iron by pushing it forward at a shallow angle against a dampened sponge or paper towel.
5.) Make the connection between the components making sure to have the two physically touch below the surface of the solder. If you see a small amount of flux (rosin) at the surface of the connection, odds are that it is a less then perfect connection.

Hope this helps,
-Dee

 

[jfdpl686]

Thank you everybody for your GREAT help.
Willy, as usual you save me before doing anything I'll regreat.
I'm preparing my 2 boxes for my projects, the long thin one and a big one for 18650 both with juice bottle but I'll wait a bit until my orders arrive with the correct (and best) LDO's... I really want my boxes to last, so it make sense, after all the work, to use the best we can... I'll be using TI's and left the shot legged ones for testing and the such...

I really appreciate your help.

Since I did my first 5V box with liquid, I'm hooked. I don't want anything less than 5V with liquid, I can carry two of those boxes (for not stressing much the attys) in a day and I'm fine, no more carrying batts and accessories. I'm a happy camper and your help was awesome in achieving my goal.

Many, many thanks.

 

[Shai]

I will use the one you have. I hope it is easier to understand:

Yes the LED goes from your pin 3 (vout) to ground (-battery). AND the capacitor can not be wired like you have it (+ side has to go to +). The capacitor goes from pin 1 (vin) to Ground (-battery)

Also when you draw a battery the "long" side is the + side.

I hope this help. If not let me know.

Ok, finally got everything I needed for this mod, but I can't seem to make it work. Of course I'm using a small circuit board which I've never used before but assembled it seems to produce voltage but not for very long. And not with an atty attached.

I'll try to explain what I've done.

Positive from batts to horn power button.
Negative from horn button to Regulator Voltage In.

From Regulator Voltage Out to 470ohm resistor to positive LED.
From negative LED to Regulator Reference.

From Regulator voltage out to center of atomizer.
Negative from outer metal of atomizer to Regulator Reference.

From Regulator reference to negative batts?

I'm getting about 2 - 3 volts at the connector. Should be getting 5 volts. And it doesn't even work when the atty is connected.

I'm really confused about the diagram when the atty connects to Reference and Vout which then connects to battery negative.

Any ideas?

 

[WillyB]

I assume you've used your meter to check for continuity and voltages at various points.

The TI is very simple to wire.

Here's someone's pic, it works fine as pictured.

Press the switch and check the volts as shown. Then do the same from Switch 2 and Reg 2. Both should read 8V or so. That will tell you the switch and the grounds are fine. Check all your other points for continuity (between solder joints).

Folks often mess up the atty connector. Make sure there is no continuity between the center post (+) and the shell (-).

 

[Shai]

That's exactly how I have it wired. I love pictures for the big words, thanks.

I'm getting 8v at the points you're describing. My solder of the atty connector appears solid. I pushed out the center part of it and solder the positive lead to that and then soldered the negative lead to the outside of the connector. Then pushed the center part back into the connector. There's no way for it to short here.

The only difference between your picture and my setup is a resistor and LED. Resistor is going from Reg 3 to LED Positive. LED Negative to Reg 2.

I have removed the LED and the resistor from the circuit, still only get about 3.3 volts at the connector

Could it be a bad atty connector or bad regulator? Wrong regulator?

 

[bigblue30]

Could it be a bad atty connector or bad regulator? Wrong regulator?

Shai,

Look at the number on the chip.....does it end in a "3"....if it does it is a 3.3 output regulator. Should end in a "5".

 

[Shai]

There aren't any identifying marks on the chip itself. But this is what I ordered: UCC383-5 - Single Output LDO, 3.0A, Fixed(5.0V), Reverse Current Protection, Thermal Shutdown

Still doesn't tell me why it's not working when the atty is connected unless the voltage/amps are too low to run it.

 

[WillyB]

There aren't any identifying marks on the chip itself. But this is what I ordered: UCC383-5 - Single Output LDO, 3.0A, Fixed(5.0V), Reverse Current Protection, Thermal Shutdown

Still doesn't tell me why it's not working when the atty is connected unless the voltage/amps are too low to run it.

You sure? My TI regs are all marked. Very faint but there, with 2 rows of ID.

Check your voltage from Switch 2 to Reg 3. If it's still 3.3 they must have shipped the wrong one. With a Joye atty it must be dropping enough, under load, to not fire it.

 

[Shai]

Ok, I tested switch 2 and Reg 3. The voltage was about 4.3V.

I put the regulator under a light and there are indeed markings. The unit number appears correct ucc383t-5.

I also tested the Reg between Reg 1 and 3. There was 4.3V. I tested the switch at switch 1 & 2. When depressed there's no voltage. When not depressed it's +8volt.....is this normal? I've never really tested electronics beyond a couple of times before.

I think what I'm going to do is run by radio shack. Their site says they have a fixed voltage 5v 3a 3pin regulator typically in-stock. Hopefully they have. Then I'll try that. I'm not sure I trust this regulator. I'm confident in my soldering. There's no overlapping solder. Nothing I see could be shorting out. So that's what I'ma do.

 

[DenniZ]

Hmmnn, when depressed its open and when its not depressed its closed... That's not right. Do you still have the package that it came in? You should be using a "N/O" or normally open switch.

If you are using a "N/C" or Normally Closed switch, the moment you put the batteries in, assuming the master shut off is in the on position, the batteries start putting out power to the atomizer connection. If the LED is the correct voltage, and is wired correctly, then you will notice that it turns on immediately, without the button being depressed. If this is the case, then the switch you are using is wrong. The LED should only turn on when the button is depressed.

Normally open switches are designed to only deliver power when the button is depressed. When the switch is pushed, the circuit closes, allowing power to flow through. If you are using the wrong type of switch, the regulator will rapidly heat up, possibly causing it to hit its thermal shutoff limit. Also the atomizer/cartomizer might be damaged due to abnormally long burns. The heat and vapor created when doing this accidental burn would be enough to get a small puff of the residual vapor out of the mouthpiece if you pressed down the button.

So in short check your switch and don't buy a new regulator, since the ones at Radio Shack are very crappy. If you have a spare TI one, you can try swapping them, but I think the problem is the switch is the wrong type.
Please keep me posted.
-Dee

 

[Shai]

Ok, what I don't understand about the switch is why am I measuring voltage at switch 1 & 2 when the button is NOT pressed. You say it's because it's closed. But if that were the case then I should be reading voltage at the atty, correct? I do not. I only read voltage at the atty when the button is pressed.

I button that I purchased is the horn button from madvapes. I have another button I can use that I purchased from radio shack when I made my USB PV. I don't think it'll change anything but at this point, I'm willing to try.

Edit - different switch, same thing. Gotta be the regulator.

Update - I removed the circuit board from the circuit. I resoldered everything directly to the regulator as discussed and pictured. Same situation. It's gotta be the regulator or the connector. I'm leaning towards the regulator.

 

[DenniZ]

I'm sorry I didn't get what you were saying until just now.
Were you saying that you were checking the voltage between switch one and two?

In any case, if it is indeed the regulator, I still don't suggest going to Radio Shack for the regulator since they are around4 dollars a piece and aren't even LDO (low drop out) regulators Heres the wiki link
If you have a spare TI regulator, try connecting it up and see if works. The only thing besides a wiring problem that I can guess at is that something is tripping the protection circuit in the batteries. Try using a new atomizer/cartomizer and if all else fails consider buying new batteries.
-Dee

 

[Brad-c]

this thread has helped me a lot... i been going to ti and getting my 5v boosters and i was wondering how to do it the other way around and stepping the voltage down... i googled and saw denniz made his mods and lead me back to this lovely site....


now i can buy my pipe tubes and make me a 5v mod.... any suggestions on how to insert this regulator so theres no shortage?

 

[Distorted.Clarity]

any suggestions on how to insert this regulator so theres no shortage?

bend the pins to permit ample working area and don't use a ton of solder.
you are best off using really thin solder, iron at 15w, with a 15w tip.

once the wires are placed and sticking i also put a small chunk of aluminum heat sink for ram, under the chip with silver thermal compound.
not sure if going over board like that was needed, but always better safe than sorry.
after that i epoxied the end that had the solder and left the top area open as to let it breath.

 

[DenniZ]

I've completely sealed TI 5v regulators, (and by completely, I mean totally encased), in epoxy, and haven't had a problem yet.
As with the above post, this maybe overkill depending upon how the regulator will be situated within your mod. Worst case scenario, you can use pliers, and wire clippers to crack away the epoxy.

Since you stated that you are placing this in a pipe, I'll assume that more robust is going to be a good thing. You don't want the spring holding the batteries to compress and jiggle your components around.

A cheaper alternative to this would be using electrical tape or if you have it on hand some heatshrink tubing. Wrap each lead individually, then wrap the whole regulator.

Good luck, and post some pics!
-Dee

 

[LACENAIRE35]

I'm impressed !!!

Very Great and usefull : "How to" !!!

Would you accept to post it in the "MODs CLUB" social group social group ...

Thanks a lot DenniZ

Joel