Hmm i need some advise here, i went ahead and bought this regulator.. because apparently RS only has this in immediate stock without realizing its not LDO. Will there be any Positive/negative impacts with this regulator?
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Madshock,
You are correct this is not a LDO regulator:
Dropout Voltage VD Io = 3A ,TJ = +25°C - 2.2 - 2.5 V
This chip has a dropout voltage up to 2.5 volts...another way to look at this is...you want 5 volts out, then add the dropout = 7.5 volts.
This means when your batteries drop to 7.5 volts your mod will shut off.
You will have a very short run time with this regulator.
If you look at the TI regulator it has a much better drop out....
0.45 V Dropout at 3 A
This chip shuts down at 5.45 volts....a much longer run time.
Thanks Bigblue30! thats great help i guess i have wasted my money then~ With 3.7X2 i dun think i can even start the mod up. haha. Bummer...
Guess its back to the drawing board and supply search~
I've got a question. I built this mod a few months ago (wish I had this tutorial then, woulda saved me some headaches!!). I had some problems with the batteries' protection circuit shutting down (see here), but that seems to be fixed now.
Anyway, my question is if I can/how to drop the output voltage to about 4.5V. It runs at 5.0V now, but that's just a little too hot for me. Maybe add a resistor between Vout and the atty connector?
Anyway, my question is if I can/how to drop the output voltage to about 4.5V. It runs at 5.0V now, but that's just a little too hot for me. Maybe add a resistor between Vout and the atty connector?
zztommis.
This chip is a "fixed" output of 5 volts. There is no way to change the output from it.....but you could put a SCHOTTKY DIODE 2A 80V in between the output and the atty. This will drop the voltage to the atty by about .6 volts making it about 4.4 volts. OR you could just use this circuit and have an adjustable mod that is adjustable from 2 to 7 volts.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/102419-adjustable-voltage-box-mod.html
This chip is a "fixed" output of 5 volts. There is no way to change the output from it.....but you could put a SCHOTTKY DIODE 2A 80V in between the output and the atty. This will drop the voltage to the atty by about .6 volts making it about 4.4 volts. OR you could just use this circuit and have an adjustable mod that is adjustable from 2 to 7 volts.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/102419-adjustable-voltage-box-mod.html
This pic right here made every thing clear for me to go ahead and do my own 5v box mod, works great, thank you so much for posting this
here's mine:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/114149-5v-box-mod-3-color-led.html#post1734595
thanks again!!!!!
Just don't forget to add a resistor (330-470Ω or so) to one of the LED legs.
I’d like to tank you guys for all your help on this one – DenniZ, BigBlue30, WillyB, Hova, Nicotime and Scubabatdan… This is more of a “Proof of Concept” that I could actually do this and not solder my fingers to the board.. 
(Actually did pretty well too, if I say so myself!
The PV isn’t “Safety’d” with shrink wrap, or glued down – I am going to be working some more on it…. The switch is from Radio Shack, and a bit too long for the AAA box’s height – so I drilled out a washer to ½” and shimmed it out (Still a bit tall, the contacts hit the cover)
It took a lot longer than I expected for two reasons – the washer took forever, and once it was ready to fire up – it didn’t. It took me about three hours to figure out that the battery boxes positive terminals weren’t making full contact with the batteries. I could get good readings, but it would not fire. Once I realized that, I beat the hell out of them with a hammer and nail punch (I was a bit frustrated at that point!)
Anyway, thanks again guys!
(Actually did pretty well too, if I say so myself!The PV isn’t “Safety’d” with shrink wrap, or glued down – I am going to be working some more on it…. The switch is from Radio Shack, and a bit too long for the AAA box’s height – so I drilled out a washer to ½” and shimmed it out (Still a bit tall, the contacts hit the cover)
It took a lot longer than I expected for two reasons – the washer took forever, and once it was ready to fire up – it didn’t. It took me about three hours to figure out that the battery boxes positive terminals weren’t making full contact with the batteries. I could get good readings, but it would not fire. Once I realized that, I beat the hell out of them with a hammer and nail punch (I was a bit frustrated at that point!)
Anyway, thanks again guys!
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I didn't use a resistor at all. Every thing works just fine. I've got a video of it working in the mod section. Don't have a link, I'm on my phone
justbrewit,
From your video is looks like it is drawing a lot of power. Do you have a link to the data sheet for the LED. I would like to see what the operating current is for it.
If I may make a few observations. You put the atty connector on the wrong end of the box. You want the other end so that the connector is completely surrounded in plastic. Even surrounded this is a weak problematic area. You should add a lot of epoxy at this time for some badly needed support. And do keep it clean, as e-liquid will in fact eventually loosen the bond of any epoxy.Id like to tank you guys for all your help on this one DenniZ, BigBlue30, WillyB, Hova, Nicotime and Scubabatdan This is more of a Proof of Concept that I could actually do this and not solder my fingers to the board..
The PV isnt Safetyd with shrink wrap, or glued down I am going to be working some more on it . The switch is from Radio Shack, and a bit too long for the AAA boxs height so I drilled out a washer to ½ and shimmed it out (Still a bit tall, the contacts hit the cover)
It took a lot longer than I expected for two reasons the washer took forever, and once it was ready to fire up it didnt. It took me about three hours to figure out that the battery boxes positive terminals werent making full contact with the batteries. I could get good readings, but it would not fire. Once I realized that, I beat the hell out of them with a hammer and nail punch (I was a bit frustrated at that point!)
Anyway, thanks again guys!
You really should avoid the 10440 batts, they just aren't up to the task of your current needs. Being generous and going by their speced max discharge rating, they are stressed and struggling for anything over about 1.2A. As an example a Joye 510 atties wants to pull almost double that @ 5V. 14500's which cost about the same are a much better choice and should be considered the minimum for any 5v mod. And your switch would fit too.
Thanks Wille,
Interesting point about the wrong end of the box - I will keep that in mind!
I was wondering how long it was going to take someone to notice the 10440s - and they are unprotected to boot! My excuse is - "Hey, its what I had!"
After carrying it around for a day, I've decided to retire it - too big and clunky. But for now I have a test bed/emergency PV!
I just got my MadVapes box in today with my little itty bitty switches - so off to make a 14500 5v box!
Interesting point about the wrong end of the box - I will keep that in mind!
I was wondering how long it was going to take someone to notice the 10440s - and they are unprotected to boot!
My excuse is - "Hey, its what I had!" After carrying it around for a day, I've decided to retire it - too big and clunky. But for now I have a test bed/emergency PV!
I just got my MadVapes box in today with my little itty bitty switches - so off to make a 14500 5v box!
Not sure about the spec sheet on the led, its the fast change 5mm led from madvapes. The led is bright as hell, but that's what the wifey wanted.
The only "little itty bitty switches" at MV's worth using in a 5V mod are these. Again you must take into consideration your current (figure about 2000mA +), unless you will be using a mosfet.Thanks Wille,
Interesting point about the wrong end of the box - I will keep that in mind!
I was wondering how long it was going to take someone to notice the 10440s - and they are unprotected to boot!
After carrying it around for a day, I've decided to retire it - too big and clunky. But for now I have a test bed/emergency PV!
I just got my MadVapes box in today with my little itty bitty switches - so off to make a 14500 5v box!
C&K Components 3A Black Pushbutton switch
I tried this using a 5V voltage regulator I picked up from Radio Shack (7850, PN 276-1770). Everything works, but the regulator gets VERY hot, and after a vape or two, I can not get it to work until things cool down. (5-10 min or so) I am not using a heat sink and everything is in a 4 AA battery holder. I am using 2 TrustFire batteries rated at 900 mAh and 3.7V
Are the regulators that everyone else is using the same? It would seem that to regulate the voltage heat would be generated - no matter what regulator I use.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Are the regulators that everyone else is using the same? It would seem that to regulate the voltage heat would be generated - no matter what regulator I use.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
You might want to look at this:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/114901-evercool-variable-voltage-mod.html
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