How to make a pipe 101

[asdaq]

Just the idea of glass, flush with surface, bottom, sounds like something might happen to it; maybe slightly recessed and with a swiveling wood cover for the bottom? Probably too much extra stuff down there....

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[l3oertjie]

I started to plan the pipe on Autocad and adjusted until I was happy with the size and shape:

I then took two flat pieces of rosewood and aligned the wood grain to "flow" into each other. These two pieces were then stuck together with a small drop of wood glue in areas I knew I would later drill out to form the bowl and the shank. I took my cad drawing, cut the shape from paper and transposed over the wood blanks.

I then used a wood baby grinder to rough shape the bowl and shank as per my overlaid sketch. Once the rough shape was made I changed my tools to dremel and sandpaper. I'm a fan of the full bent shape so working in the tight corners required small filing and sanding tools.

This is what it looked like after initial shaping and sanding:

After this, I clamped the shape and first drilled the shank and then the bowl to a "safe" depth using standard wood drill bits. I didn’t worry too much about getting the holes drilled all the way since I knew that I would have to do some dremelling work inside to shape the wood for all the parts that had to go inside.

Here are the two halves after some staining. (I wanted a dark coloured pipe)

I then epoxied the stem connector thread in place in order to fit the liquid chamber behind it:

A bit of further planning to see how I had to bend the central tube to the mouthpiece:

Next up was the liquid chamber - an old CE4 shape fitted (almost) nicely and required minor modification to sit snug in the shank. The bottom part was cut at an angle for maximum juice holding capacity. The bottom part was then epoxied close ready to be prepared for the atty connector:

Before gluing the juice tank in I had to fit the atty connector and wiring - more to follow later on the atty by the way...

I then fitted the protection circuit and rest of the wiring before closing the two halves:

After that I made the leaf switch assembly. Want to try something different next time.

Made the bowl top from aluminium torch parts and roughened up charcoal powder and superglue. (makes a great black filler by the way).

Came out just as I planned it - more or less:

 

[bapgood]

While not really applicable to my build if I do use the DNA20, l3oertjie had asked about specifics for a simple MOSFET switch.

IMHO the advantage to using a MOSFET switch is that the actual switch used does not need to handle the entire current load going to the atty, thus also giving more options for the switch used.

Below is some info on using a mosfet to make a switch. Most of the below information came from DrMA when he helped me on a different project.

I'm usually of the opinion that N-channel MOSFETs make better switches, because they tend to have lower resistance [RDS(on)]: i.e. low-side switching. Assuming you'll be using just one LiPo (nominal 3.7V) when picking a FET to work with, look for one a VGS(th) <1.5V, enough current to support your application +50% [ID(on)] so it doesn't overheat, and appropriate breakdown voltage (VDS > 4.2V)

Here's a very nice and easy to understand guide: Using the Power MOSFET as a Switch - MOSFET Switching

Here's the basics of FET switching:
- use N-channel FETs to switch the ground (low-side switching). Gate needs a pull-down resistor for OFF, and gets connected to the (+) side of the batt for ON
- use P-channel FETs to switch the (+) connection (high-side). Gate needs a pull-up resistor for OFF, and gets connected to ground for ON.

In general, P-FETs have higher resistance than N-FETs.

In a P-channel FET, current flows and gets switched in the direction Source->Drain. The body diode is reverse biased with respect to S->D

In contrast, for a N-channel FET, current flows and gets switched in the direction Drain->Source. The body diode is forward biased with respect to S->D

The resistor is used to bring the Gate potential to reference when the switch is off. It also functions as a current-limiting resistor when the switch is on, so you don't short the battery. You want the highest resistance value that accomplishes a full off state with the switch open. You'll need to play with the resistor value to get the desired results. I'm guessing it would be between 10K and 50K. This is where a variable resistor comes in really handy.

Here are some simple diagrams that DrMA provided and then I added some info.


Low-Side (negative) Switching using a N-Channel MOSFET.




High-Side (positive) Switching using a P-Channel MOSFET.

 

[asdaq]

Wow, that is some serious planning and development there, I thought this was a 101 class, that is some hard core post-graduate work. Why is it pinkish in that one pic?

One small item back at the basic level, it is better to drill a solid block than a shaped one as the wood won't have to handle the stress of drilling as much.

 

[l3oertjie]

I thought this was a 101 class, that is some hard core post-graduate work. Why is it pinkish in that one pic?

I played with different coloured wood stains and finish over it asdaq - rosewood is pretty light in colour and initially I stained the wood reddish with a brown polyurethane coat over it - HATED the smell of the VOC's - even after two weeks it was still there - strong. So I took it off and opted for another type of finish. Wood stain and superglue.

Regarding the drilling - I can't really comment on which is better since I only made one so far. Shaping first and then drilling worked out ok I think. I wanted to align the hole perfectly with the bowl shape - hence my decision to shape first and then drill. Guess no harm doing it the other way around.

 

[bapgood]

l3oertjie very nice write up!!!

I want to hear more about the stem .....I know you made it to work with the leaf switch, but what did you start with and etc.

Oh....and you said that you covered it with heat shrink.....how did you finish the heat shrink? Because that looks like shinnyest heat shrink I have seen

 

[l3oertjie]

Sorry Bap, I keep skipping over that part!

The finish over the heat shrink is also superglue - my absolute favourite tool in the garage....

I first shaped the central tube as shown in the 9th & 10 picture. I then stuck (with you know what) small pieces of shaped wood around it to form the basic rough shape of the stem. After that I shaped the wood a bit smaller than the actual tip (using sandpaper and dremel sanding tool). After this, I made powder charcoal (has to be fine) and smeared small sections of superglue over the wood. Sprinkle with the charcoal powder and add a drop of superglue over it again. Repeat this process and let it dry properly. Do not try and be hasty with this process otherwise you will end up with whitish spots on the finished product.

After it has dried out, sand down to shape, add more charcoal and superglue to areas if necessary, sand again and polish. Easy...

 

[asdaq]

A question about the super glue finish, since it adds an armor coating and entombs whichever wood is beneath it, do you guys think a CA finished pine or cedar mod (pipe too even) would be much stronger in spite of using the soft wood? My nicer wood is all spoken for and I really haven't got a good local source for the good stuff, yet the cheap stuff is all to easy to get.

 

[bapgood]

Sorry Bap, I keep skipping over that part!

The finish over the heat shrink is also superglue - my absolute favourite tool in the garage....

I first shaped the central tube as shown in the 9th & 10 picture. I then stuck (with you know what) small pieces of shaped wood around it to form the basic rough shape of the stem. After that I shaped the wood a bit smaller than the actual tip (using sandpaper and dremel sanding tool). After this, I made powder charcoal (has to be fine) and smeared small sections of superglue over the wood. Sprinkle with the charcoal powder and add a drop of superglue over it again. Repeat this process and let it dry properly. Do not try and be hasty with this process otherwise you will end up with whitish spots on the finished product.

After it has dried out, sand down to shape, add more charcoal and superglue to areas if neccessar, sand again and polish. Easy...

Excellent!!! Thanks!!!

I thought the superglue might be to rigid to let the stem flex for the leaf switch.

I think I might cheat and design up a stem and have it 3D printed in two halves. I found a light touch tact switch that I need to order and try. My thought is that I will put groves for the wiring and place to mount the switch so its just flush with the outside of the stem, then cover in heat shrink/super glue/polish and voila

 

[l3oertjie]

A question about the super glue finish, since it adds an armor coating and entombs whichever wood is beneath it, do you guys think a CA finished pine or cedar mod (pipe too even) would be much stronger in spite of using the soft wood? My nicer wood is all spoken for and I really haven't got a good local source for the good stuff, yet the cheap stuff is all to easy to get.

asdaq, as long as you use a very thin (low viscosity) type superglue - stay away from the gel type, it may work in my opinion. If the wood takes a hard knock (like falling on a hard surface) I'm sure it will still leave it with a dent. The superglue absorbs about 1mm into the wood, but it is strong and hard afterwards.

I had my bowl falling a few times whilst working on it and it withstands the knocks pretty good. Rosewood however is much harder than cedar wood. I'm a bit worried that no matter how hard the surface, the underlying wood will give way to hard bumps.

No matter what I say, try it and test - best way of finding out!

 

[l3oertjie]

Excellent!!! Thanks!!!

I thought the superglue might be to rigid to let the stem flex for the leaf switch.

I think I might cheat and design up a stem and have it 3D printed in two halves. I found a light touch tact switch that I need to order and try. My thought is that I will put groves for the wiring and place to mount the switch so its just flush with the outside of the stem, then cover in heat shrink/super glue/polish and voila

Good idea bap, worth a try indeed!

The superglue (in thin layers) will flex enough if spread over a distance. My initial leaf switch had it flex about 0.25mm over a distance of 5mm - that’s 1 in 20. It didn't crack or break at all. In fact, thinking about it, on the edge of the sunken hole where the contacts are and with the shrink-wrap over it the distance of flexing must be much shorter.

Superglue is a wonderful thing.

 

[bapgood]

Here is the light touch tact switch that I'm considering.

EVQ-Q2B01W

EVQ-Q2B01W Panasonic | Digi-Key
EVQ-Q2B01W Panasonic | Mouser

 

[DrMA]

Truly outstanding work, l3.

And very nice plans, bap. I especially like the "floating display" mod you've done to the DNA20. I have some experience doing that one too

 

[bapgood]

Truly outstanding work, l3.

And very nice plans, bap. I especially like the "floating display" mod you've done to the DNA20. I have some experience doing that one too

That's a good spare screen off a bad board that I practiced unsoldering and resoldering. Unsolder with smt hot air gun, resolder with fine tip iron on each screen contact to the pre tinned pcb contacts. Get the first one straight and the rest are cake

 

[DrMA]

I take it back then... And I'm thoroughly impressed you were able to solder that.

My experience with detaching the screen from the DNA board is of a different nature.

 

[bapgood]

I take it back then... And I'm thoroughly impressed you were able to solder that.

My experience with detaching the screen from the DNA board is of a different nature.

lol.....knocking on wood....I broke two screens within a week, but both were at the other end.

 

[dr g]

Truly outstanding work, l3.

And very nice plans, bap. I especially like the "floating display" mod you've done to the DNA20. I have some experience doing that one too

I take it back then... And I'm thoroughly impressed you were able to solder that.

My experience with detaching the screen from the DNA board is of a different nature.

I cringed too!

 

[Krythis]

I'm toying with the idea of printing a dragon claw ePipe. These are some early prototypes that I printed with a 510 hole to test the feel using a DID. Planning on using a touch switch, custom atty, and possibly variable voltage if I pick up a chip.

I like the look of the wooden pipes, but this looked like a good challenging project for my printer. The final product will look much nicer that those shown and the claw will be black. These were printed for speed have no finishing work done.

Suggestions welcome

 

[l3oertjie]

I'm toying with the idea of printing a dragon claw ePipe. These are some early prototypes that I printed with a 510 hole to test the feel using a DID. Planning on using a touch switch, custom atty, and possibly variable voltage if I pick up a chip.

I like the look of the wooden pipes, but this looked like a good challenging project for my printer. The final product will look much nicer that those shown and the claw will be black. These were printed for speed have no finishing work done.

Suggestions welcome

Not my cup of tea but nevertheless very impressive and interesting!

I like the look of this one:

 

[Krythis]

Not my cup of tea but nevertheless very impressive and interesting!

I like the look of this one:

That's a similar look to what I'm going for. Except the hand will be glossy black and the bowl will be a sort of tie dye nylon.


http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jnHSzMbWZHc/UWMRWEfprxI/AAAAAAAACsU/YDj4ikqM8YA/s640/Many_NYLON_Pots.jpg

I like the classy look of a wooden pipe, but would like to play on the strengths of 3D printing by being able to integrate channels for wiring etc and easily reproducible.