How to make a pipe 101

[bapgood]

Ok pipe wizards out there....while I'm sorting a few things out I'm expecting a lot more posts out of you guys

I think I have gone away from using the traditional 22mm/23mm OD atty and going to a smaller purpose built atty, but I think I will still try to make it interchangeable.

I have heard some great things about the kayfun and variants, but I'm being to cheap to buy one. Plus the kayfun Lite is kind of hard to find, but I might pick up a Russian 91%.

In the meantime with some delrin, spare/harvested parts/etc I'm going to try to make a bapfun to see if a similar atty will find its way into my pipe. I'm going to try to use clear pieces so I can see into the internal atty chamber to see whats going on. l3oertjie you should be proud I'm planning on going pins and needles

 

[asdaq]

Bap, I'm proud of the pins and needles too, I've sworn by them since before raidy gave us the genisis, but just a touch before. If you can get your atty down to 15-16 mm diameter it will also aid in gracefully blending into the mouthpiece too. You might also be interested in one of raidy's designs that had a fairly slender atty that was fed by a larger tank that was hidden in the bowl. It is in the latter part of his thread, and I really haven't seen anyone else use this concept.

 

[l3oertjie]

Bap, that's great news! I'm honoured - thank you.

I've been able to make an atty about 8mm in diameter with the pins and needles. Dual coil....

Good luck!

 

[bapgood]

Bap, I'm proud of the pins and needles too, I've sworn by them since before raidy gave us the genisis, but just a touch before. If you can get your atty down to 15-16 mm diameter it will also aid in gracefully blending into the mouthpiece too. You might also be interested in one of raidy's designs that had a fairly slender atty that was fed by a larger tank that was hidden in the bowl. It is in the latter part of his thread, and I really haven't seen anyone else use this concept.

Ought oh....Raidy's thread is a dangerous place for me. I can lose countless hours in there and come out with a list of new projects

But I will check it out, thanks!

 

[bapgood]

asdaq, any idea of what the pipe was called or etc? I'm having a hard time locating it.

 

[asdaq]

I went backwards to post #1281 as I set the limit as the beginning of 2011 and did not see it (scrolling quickly, looking for posts with pics). I did not see it, perhaps it is earlier or in the german forum, but the idea is simple enough to describe: The tank is in the bowl, where there was more space, and only a thin tube ran up the stem to the atomizer portion, and this tube is just big enough for a SS mesh wick (a pretty long one) to run down and into the tank.

Sorry I couldn't find it.

 

[bapgood]

I went backwards to post #1281 as I set the limit as the beginning of 2011 and did not see it (scrolling quickly, looking for posts with pics). I did not see it, perhaps it is earlier or in the german forum, but the idea is simple enough to describe: The tank is in the bowl, where there was more space, and only a thin tube ran up the stem to the atomizer portion, and this tube is just big enough for a SS mesh wick (a pretty long one) to run down and into the tank.

Sorry I couldn't find it.

No problems, I just like see the way he does things.

It would be nice to have an easy access for juice filling.

 

[asdaq]

Ha! It is in post #69. And yes, I went backwards the whole way LOL.

 

[bapgood]

Picked up a couple of analogs to play with

 

[DrMA]

Bap, I'm proud of the pins and needles too, I've sworn by them since before raidy gave us the genisis, but just a touch before. If you can get your atty down to 15-16 mm diameter it will also aid in gracefully blending into the mouthpiece too. You might also be interested in one of raidy's designs that had a fairly slender atty that was fed by a larger tank that was hidden in the bowl. It is in the latter part of his thread, and I really haven't seen anyone else use this concept.

OK. I give up. Will you guys please explain this "pins and needles" thing.

 

[asdaq]

My wording 'Im proud of the pins and needles too' comes out a bit awkward, as if it were my own child. The truth is it is really l3oertjie's baby and I've only adopted the idea. I had better let him explain.

edit: just like he has done here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/120072-atomizer-cartomizer-life.html

 

[l3oertjie]

My wording 'Im proud of the pins and needles too' comes out a bit awkward, as if it were my own child. The truth is it is really l3oertjie's baby and I've only adopted the idea. I had better let him explain.

edit: just like he has done here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/120072-atomizer-cartomizer-life.html

Yikes asdaq - now there's going back in time!!! I understood perfectly well what you meant by the way.

Essentially two syringe needles act as your positive and negative posts and you "pin" your coil into them holding them down with thinner needle pins. I reckon the post asdaq referred to that was the precursor for the modern day cartos...


Here's three pictures that should explain DrMA.

The beauty of this method is you can go REALLY small and compact...

 

[l3oertjie]

Some more links if you are intrested.

510 carto style

CE2 style

Genesis style

My little beast

Been using this one exclusively for almost a year now.

 

[asdaq]

Oh yeah, there we go.

 

[DrMA]

Thanks, guys. I had seen some of those builds before, just not the terminology... Very clever indeed.

 

[bapgood]

While not really applicable to my build if I do use the DNA20, l3oertjie had asked about specifics for a simple MOSFET switch.

IMHO the advantage to using a MOSFET switch is that the actual switch used does not need to handle the entire current load going to the atty, thus also giving more options for the switch used.

Below is some info on using a mosfet to make a switch. Most of the below information came from DrMA when he helped me on a different project.



Here are some simple diagrams that DrMA provided and then I added some info.


Low-Side (negative) Switching using a N-Channel MOSFET.




High-Side (positive) Switching using a P-Channel MOSFET.

I wish I could update the original post....but I accidentally swapped the drain and the source indicators on the Low-Side (negative) Switching using a N-Channel MOSFET diagram.

Here is the correct diagram

Low-Side (negative) Switching using a N-Channel MOSFET

 

[toth]

Not my cup of tea but nevertheless very impressive and interesting!

I like the look of this one:

Where did you find this one?! It is badass! Maybe a convert?