How to make an unoxidized, hot spot free and cleanable coil

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burnie71

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Was thinking this evening: what if I heat the coil under the flame of a propane torch? Might not be the temperature needed to properly oxidize Kanthal A-1 and have a layer of non conductive aluminum oxide migrate / cover the surface. But might make the coil less conductive instead of non conductive.

I tried with 28 AWG since smaller might "burn and snap". Gave the coil a long burn in the hottest part of the flame. Coil came out grey, non reflective. Tested with a cheap handheld multimeter. Got surprising result: would not conduct. Nothing. No reading. On brand new wire, I get a reading. So I guess it did help.

Huge coil I have: 9 wraps on a 3 mm wick. Reads 1.9 ohms. Takes a while to heat up at 4.2 V. But no hot spots at all, no short, nothing. Easiest setup I've made yet.

Very interesting! I will give it a try. I guess you must have got it almost white hot...thanks for the info.
 

thedesbois

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Very interesting! I will give it a try. I guess you must have got it almost white hot...thanks for the info.

Not white hot. :( Very bright orange going towards yellow.

Let me know how it works out for you. I hope it makes a difference. Might justify the purchase of a higher temperature torch system. Or bring a couple of coils for heating to someone who knows what he' doing. :)
 

razor4432

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Well after having trouble with an oxidized wick and trying to wrap the coil by hand I decided to give this a shot and perfection. Running my eVic right now with the coil I made (2.2ohm) at 3.2v/4.6w just to get things broken in nicely. Will up the voltage slowly throughout the day tomorrow and hopefully just hopefully this one pulls through for me.

Was neat watching the coil oxidize the wick just right doing the dry burns and after it was complete the coil glowed perfect with no hot spots or hot top leg :) The vapor production is insane right now on 3.2v, can't wait to be running 4-4.5v!!!

Awesome method Petar
 

eLCruz

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Here is my first time using the Petar K method. This is SOOO easy to do and much better than coiling on the wick! Not a single hotspot ANYWHERE on the coil!
Petar K ROCKS!
uploadfromtaptalk1368555736196.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1368555776509.jpg
:D :thumbup: :beer:

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
 

Stoneface

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Speaking of, can you Petar K one of those porous ceramic wick F2000 or something like that?
You can. It is difficult to get it tight enough, but it can be done. Try winding your coil on a drill bit one size smaller than your wick. If you get the coil tight enough on the drill bit, you will need to "screw" the wick into your coil. One of the hot wrap methods are better, IMO, but you can start with the Petar K to get going. Try looking up "Elias Hot Wrap" on Google or ECF for the torch method or "Pulse Method" for electrically annealing the Kanthal. There is also an FC-2000 specific thread with good information here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...stems/379380-fc-2000-porous-ceramic-wick.html
 

LouEyez

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Cool. Thanks for your reply.

I tried it tonight, for the first time, and unfortunately, the wick I have is waaaay short, so I'll need to find another one.
Wrapped the cool anyway, just to do it, and I could get it to fire at all...I think I might have been trying to do it with non resistance wire, but I'm not sure since it wasn't labeled. Didn't feel like busting out the multimeter or trying again tonight, son ill try again at a later date and hopefully with the right size wick.

Thanks,

L
 

Stoneface

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Cool. Thanks for your reply.

I tried it tonight, for the first time, and unfortunately, the wick I have is waaaay short, so I'll need to find another one.
Wrapped the cool anyway, just to do it, and I could get it to fire at all...I think I might have been trying to do it with non resistance wire, but I'm not sure since it wasn't labeled. Didn't feel like busting out the multimeter or trying again tonight, son ill try again at a later date and hopefully with the right size wick.

Thanks,

L
You're welcome. You can still use the short wick, you would just have to Genny tilt...some folks have used broken wicks this way. You would definitely need some resistance wire, though :)
 

liveone

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After carefully reading the instructions I've been trying to apply the steps to a couple new wicks. I like the idea of being able to slide the wick out for cleaning and the light contact of the coil.

I've tried this method before but this thread really delivers the fine points that I've been missing.

From initial observations, it seems that the coil heats up a lot faster and that I might want to wind more coils than I usually do.

Thanks for the great tutorial!
 

Brazilleon

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A bit late to the party, but tried this tonight.
I made two new wicks and coils. One for my original GTank and the other for my GTUS. Both mesh wicks were wrapped around 1mm SS Wire Rope.
The GTank I used 10mm squared mesh. 1.8mm drill bit and it worked like clockwork. Wrapping the drill bit is so solid and quick to do.
The drill bit fitted into the Gtank support hole, real nice. Everything felt solid to work with, connecting the legs and shifting the coils. Real nice.
Beautiful looking coil while doing the dry burns.
Wrapped the mesh around the SS Rope, nice and tight.
Slipped the wick into the coil, and tested. 1.8ohms, even glow.
Seems too easy.
For GTUS, same as above, but used 24mmx10mm of mesh. I also used the 2 mm drill bit.
Just wanted to say thanks for this tutorial. I'll be building all my genisis wicks like this from now on.
It's so much faster and more reliable than the oxidization route.

Cheers, much appreciated.
 
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