Huge voltage drop on the EA mod

[donnah]

It's called confirmation bias, the tendency of people to favor information that confirms their beliefs or hypotheses, with a side order of post-purchase rationalization — the tendency to persuade oneself through rational argument that a purchase was a good value.

Human nature.

Guilty as charged! LOL But actually, if I buy something and then don't like it.. I don't pretend to like it to rationalize my purchase. I have bought a couple devices that I was not happy or happy enough to think it was worth the price. I try not to make bad remarks about said device because I don't want someone to feel bad about theirs and then feel obligated to defend it. But it's always nice to hear positive reviews on a device that I paid a lot for and happen to enjoy.

 

[donnah]

You don't really notice voltage drop until you make 1 ohm coils and lower. The lower ohm coil you make the bigger the voltage drop. If you have 0.2-0.3v drop under load on a 1 ohm coil that means you mechanical device/battery is performing pretty good. Having no voltage drop when the device is not under load is meaningless.

I get a .2-.3v drop on my .8 coils. (which makes me happy because of the above posts LOL) During the course of the vaping session.. I don't really notice the voltage drop until the batt gets to around 3.5 or so and needs changing anyway. If I build a coil that's over 1ohm, I notice the drop as the batt discharges much quicker.

I've been using Provari's for the last year and a half so I was quite leary about using a device that put me back in my box mod days. But I've been pleasantly surprised that I actually like the voltage ride. I can sit back and enjoy the vape and not obsess over numbers. I still like my numbers though

 

[EDO]

I get a .2-.3v drop on my .8 coils. (which makes me happy because of the above posts LOL) During the course of the vaping session.. I don't really notice the voltage drop until the batt gets to around 3.5 or so and needs changing anyway. If I build a coil that's over 1ohm, I notice the drop as the batt discharges much quicker.

I've been using Provari's for the last year and a half so I was quite leary about using a device that put me back in my box mod days. But I've been pleasantly surprised that I actually like the voltage ride. I can sit back and enjoy the vape and not obsess over numbers. I still like my numbers though

Well when talking about voltage drop in the context of the OP mentioned...means the initial voltage drop you measure with a multimeter. If you are getting an intial voltage drop off 0.3v with an 0.8 ohm coil.....with a 2.0 ohm coil it will be near zero (less than 0.1v). A 0.3v voltage drop with a 0.8ohm coil is excellent.

I am surprised that you feel that your batteries are lasting longer with the lower ohm coils....theoretically they shouldn't (lower ohm coils use higher amps so they should drain the battery faster). You are probably taking a lot longer hits with higher ohm coils and draining the batteries faster.

 

[Telescope Neil]

ALL mech mods are going to drop voltage underload. If the contacts aren't clean, the drop will be more. Are you sure you want a mech?

Of course I know that every mod has a certain resistance which will give a voltage drop when fired. I use mechanicals and only them since I started vaping, the community here in our country was all about RBAs and mechanicals, so I jumped right ahead assuming that it was the best vape available. I only wanted an EA because I thought it looks nice, then have its contacts changed to silver just to give the mod better conductivity.

 

[donnah]

Well when talking about voltage drop in the context of the OP mentioned...means the initial voltage drop you measure with a multimeter. If you are getting an intial voltage drop off 0.3v with an 0.8 ohm coil.....with a 2.0 ohm coil it will be near zero (less than 0.1v). A 0.3v voltage drop with a 0.8ohm coil is excellent.

I am surprised that you feel that your batteries are lasting longer with the lower ohm coils....theoretically they shouldn't (lower ohm coils use higher amps so they should drain the battery faster). You are probably taking a lot longer hits with higher ohm coils and draining the batteries faster.

It's not that I think they last longer.. I just don't notice the drain and feel like I was getting an unsatisfactory vape like I was afraid I would. I use different types of rbas with different resistances set for the specific device I'm going to use it on. Batt life is important to me.. I don't use 18350s or the mini provari because I don't want to change batts so much during the day. When I bought my first mech, the EA, I bought some 18350s but noticed immediately that the voltage dropped quickly during the short course of discharge. For me, mechs are cute in their 18350 modes but the batt life is too short for my liking.

anyways.. I hope the OP got the answer he was looking for to decide whether or not to invest in an EA mod.

 

[porkchopharry]

I think the whole voltage drop thing is just played up massively. It makes for awesome marketing fodder though. We are ex-smokers. We are compulsive. If somebody comes out with silver contacts that will possibly boost voltage by a miniscule amount for $55.95, many of us, myself included probably will probably run for our debit cards.

Just as there are many people who may rationalize their purchases, there are just as many who de-rationalize, and will always want to chase the dragon. I'm not sure if de-rationalize is even a word. But I am compulsive and I like it.

 

[donnah]

I thought all afternoon about the voltage drop question on the EA. I made a claim that I got only a .3 drop. I wanted to make sure I wasn't exaggerating any so I did a bit of testing. I wiped the threads and contacts with alcohol. I applied a dab of noalox and worked it into all the threads. I put in a fully charged batt and it read 4.22 with no load. The reading on a .9ohm coil was 3.88 (the readings bounced around some but this was the most prominent) So my voltage drop on the EA with a .9 coil using a madvapes voltmeter was a .34 drop.

I did the same to the Roller.. cleaned the threads and contacts and applied noalox. On a not fresh batt showing 3.8v I got a .3 drop. I did another test with the Roller.. using the same batt at a starting voltage of 3.83, then I put on a GP spheroid with a coil metering 1.2ohms and I got a reading of 3.57... a .26 drop in voltage.

Doing another test on the EA. The batt with no load in the mod is reading 4.2v .. now I'm putting on the same spheriod (with a 1.2 coil) and the reading is...3.92 ... a .28 drop in voltage under load.

Before the cleaning and noalox application I was getting a .5 (with the 1.2 coil) and .6 (with the .9 coil) drop on the EA. I had initially cleaned it when I got it and applied noalox but wiped it all off. This time I applied just a tiny dab the worked it into the threads and didn't wipe it off. It improved the conductivity by .2 and .3v. This may not mean much or be all that important to some (and that's OK) but it is important to me to get the best conductivity I can out of the devices I own. (and that's OK too )

It's interesting that the Roller is getting a bit better conductivity.. it has a hot spring in it.

For the .9 coil.. I was using a standard DID D20 RBA

 

[Soundhunter]

Wow!..Some of you guys (and gals ) are way more knowledgeable and informed than me..no big shock there .. Dang, I just make a wick, build a coil and vape.. Only thing I can kind of tell is that the EA hits harder than my Legacy or K100..but that's about it..never thought anything about it

why do I all the sudden feel like a train I should be paying attention to and getting on just left me at the station??

Edit: Thanks donnah for posting GG's review - Just found a new potential home for the ZAP!

 

[tc1]

Numbers are great for knowing the TRUE wattage you are vaping at but the bottom line is ... and always will be ... is the mechanical giving you a great vape? If the answer is YES ... then don't get caught up in the whole "voltage drop craze".

If you enjoy it and it's keeping you from going back to tobacco ... then it's doing the job well.

That's why I said it's good for knowing the TRUE wattage. ;-)

To put it another way ... it's handy information to have, but as long as the device is pleasing you, there is no point in chasing a mythical dragon (aka ... the lowest voltage drop possible).

I've literally seen people happy with a mechanical, test the voltage drop ... then be disappointed after they found out the voltage drop was lower than they expected. They enjoyed the device before they let the numbers get in their head ...

 

[st0nedpenguin]

Numbers are great for knowing the TRUE wattage you are vaping at but the bottom line is ... and always will be ... is the mechanical giving you a great vape? If the answer is YES ... then don't get caught up in the whole "voltage drop craze".

If you enjoy it and it's keeping you from going back to tobacco ... then it's doing the job well.

It's worth knowing this kind of info though, especially since it'll let you know when it's time for a clean.

 

[badinfluence357]

I love my EA, I don't use it much because I want to preserve it but its sweet...

Sent from my SCH-R910 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Soundhunter]

It's worth knowing this kind of info though, especially since it'll let you know when it's time for a clean.

Good Point!!..how do you test for Voltage Drop though?

 

[donnah]

Good Point!!..how do you test for Voltage Drop though?

I use a madvapes voltmeter. Screw it on and fire the device and it will tell the batt charge. screw something on top of it and then fire the device and it will tell the voltage underload. Subtract underload number from the nonunderload number and that gives you the drop. Probably not the most accurate of ways to tell but it's what I have.

 

[Rader2146]

It's good to know what is going on at all the places that matter. I've recommended using an inline meter AND a multimeter at the atty posts (for RBA's). That way you can know what your total voltage drop is and the actual power that you are using at the coil.

A total voltage drop (at the posts) of less than .3V is doing pretty good, but the voltage drop of the Mech Mod (measured inline) should be much less. With the spring-less design of the EA, there should be no reason to have more than .1_V drop inline (with a quality battery).

But TC1 does have a good point, if it vapes good...then it aint broke. Fix it at your own desire.

 

[porkchopharry]

PBusardo just devised a contraption to measure mechanical voltage drop and just debuted it on Youtube today if you haven't seen it. Out of the 4 mechanicals he tested (quickly) the EA came in second for lowest drop. First? The Natural. He is supposedly going to be putting a lot of mechanicals through their paces to clear this all up. Is his method sound? Heck I dunno.

Here is his "Mech Test Rig" if you haven't seen it: A PBusardo Video - Meet The New Mech Test Rig - YouTube

 

[Soundhunter]

PBusardo just devised a contraption to measure mechanical voltage drop and just debuted it on Youtube today if you haven't seen it. Out of the 4 mechanicals he tested (quickly) the EA came in second for lowest drop. First? The Natural. He is supposedly going to be putting a lot of mechanicals through their paces to clear this all up. Is his method sound? Heck I dunno.

Here is his "Mech Test Rig" if you haven't seen it: A PBusardo Video - Meet The New Mech Test Rig - YouTube

This guy is great..always been a favorite of mine - I trust his methodology and his reviews.. I still want to learn to test for myself

In any case... so much for the "Huge" voltage drop in the EA...and The Natural seems to be pretty well made from what his test says....

 

[Fury83]

It looks like he is only testing one of each, this was the downfall of his clearomizer test. T3 was the best according to him, turns out, half of them don't work.

Not saying something similar would happen but it is what it is.

Also, in response to a question about cleaning he says

"Thanks Duane. But I wonder... is it my responsibility to clean oxidation, or is it the responsibility of the maker/manufacturer? It's a point for discussion for sure. If I were making the mech, I'd be SURE it would get into the hands of the user in PERFECT condition with no need to clean, lube, etc. But that's just me."

Are these all brand new mods? I know he's had the EA for a while and I am sure some of the others, so unless he has new examples, I am not inclined to trust the results.

I didn't get to watch the whole video so if these are answered, I'll know that I am a fool after work today.

 

[donnah]

It looks like he is only testing one of each, this was the downfall of his clearomizer test. T3 was the best according to him, turns out, half of them don't work.

Not saying something similar would happen but it is what it is.

Also, in response to a question about cleaning he says

"Thanks Duane. But I wonder... is it my responsibility to clean oxidation, or is it the responsibility of the maker/manufacturer? It's a point for discussion for sure. If I were making the mech, I'd be SURE it would get into the hands of the user in PERFECT condition with no need to clean, lube, etc. But that's just me."

Are these all brand new mods? I know he's had the EA for a while and I am sure some of the others, so unless he has new examples, I am not inclined to trust the results.

I didn't get to watch the whole video so if these are answered, I'll know that I am a fool after work today.

I also wrote to him about this same thing. LOL.. he told me that you had emailed him. Here is what I wrote.

"I watched your video showing where you were going to be testing the mechs.
> There is another variable to consider... a clean mod. I bought an EA mod
> mainly because you have one and like it. But, if the contacts aren't
> clean, the voltage drop is much more. I use a voltmeter from madvapes to
> test my mechs and I get up to a .3 drop difference on clean vs not so
> clean. I clean my threads and contacts with alcohol and then apply noalox
> and work it into the threads.. this makes a huge difference in
> conductivity. "

I just got a reply:

"Thanks Donna!!

Funny, cause Duane brought that up as well.

However, since everything I will be testing is brand new, who's responsibility is to clean it. Shouldn't it come from the factory/manufacturer in a condition that will provide the BEST POSSIBLE performance? I know if I were the manufacturer, I'd be sure it was clean, PERFECT, and ready to go.

Just something to think about.

-PBusardo"


The difference between a clean mod and a not so clean mod is big... the difference between a mod with noalox and a mod without noalox is big. I just hate to see any good mod being seen in an unfavorable light because it's dirty or hasn't had an application of noalox. The batt and the "topper" aren't the only variables in this test.

 

[donnah]

PBusardo just devised a contraption to measure mechanical voltage drop and just debuted it on Youtube today if you haven't seen it. Out of the 4 mechanicals he tested (quickly) the EA came in second for lowest drop. First? The Natural. He is supposedly going to be putting a lot of mechanicals through their paces to clear this all up. Is his method sound? Heck I dunno.

Here is his "Mech Test Rig" if you haven't seen it: A PBusardo Video - Meet The New Mech Test Rig - YouTube

I thought the smoktech (or is it smoktek) telescope came in first.

 

[Rader2146]

His test method is not the most accurate method and the test rig induces more loss than the mod, but it should be consistent across the board.

To cleanliness: It HAS to be the user/testers responsibility to ensure the contacts are clean. Oxidation happens over time. Certain metals oxidize faster than others, and who knows how long it has been from the time it left the manufacturer to the time of testing. Furthermore, alcohol and cotton swabs are nearly worthless for actual oxidation, but it works good for the dirt and grime that many people call oxidation. Nobody removes rust with alcohol and a cotton swab.