Hybrid Elite Mod by Rainbow Heaven

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CountSmackula

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I'll post pictures when I get home from work this evening. :)

Okay. Here ya go. This is the top spring from a sigelei 19:
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You flip it over & thread it down over the existing spring.
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When it bottoms out against the metal plate, you're good to go.
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I'm still gonna try out the Chicago screw, but this was my quick fix to bring the voltage up.
 

Mickey_Star

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what are the chances you know that ACE number "part number". my woman works there and has access to there computers to order anything but cant find them. maybe we can get a good deal. yeah, its cheap but i could only find in bulk of 5 or 10+.

I can do that. I'll get down there in the next couple days.
 

zipflint

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I guess it's obvious to everyone else, but I just realized that if the body of the Hybrid Elite was NOT anodized, the Count Smackula MegaSpring would be....a bad thing. Like if you tried a similar thing with a Sigelei #19, you'd either be firing constantly, or you'd have a shock machine. I think.

All I know is, until I get the parts for a "real" fix, this is GREAT! :)
 

Mickey_Star

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5u3aqaba.jpg


I actually got the Noble 1. I can honestly say that I'm extremely happy with it. Never had to mess or make any adjustments. With all the modifications being made with the elite wouldn't it been easier just ordering the real deal? Like to hear your input.

It is a valid point. Without getting into the debate over the ethics of clones and all that. I like the Noble design obviously. Looks to be a solid mod that reportedly hit hard right out of the box. Super .....in. For me, like Count Smackula said, not a big fan of the smaller batteries. The power drop off and short lifespan kill it for me. If the Noble offered the 18650, I'd of considered it at least. It looks almost as good as TheJack's Elite after his super deluxe grill cleaner mod.
 

zipflint

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It's a definite improvement, but your method (with the Chicago screws) is much more....sound. This feels like a very serviceable stop-gap measure.

Was it you, or someone else who mentioned de-anodizing the threading on the deck where the capture screw is? How does one do this without warping the threading?


The spring worked for you zipflint? Does it hit hard now?
 

Mickey_Star

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It's a definite improvement, but your method (with the Chicago screws) is much more....sound. This feels like a very serviceable stop-gap measure.

Was it you, or someone else who mentioned de-anodizing the threading on the deck where the capture screw is? How does one do this without warping the threading?

On my Elite the anodizing went into the threading of the negative post giving an undependable contact. I just threaded the negative screw in and out several times to clear it out. A drop of Noalox on the screw and all good. You cant use very aggressive methods on the threads IMOHO since they are soft aluminum.
 

Mickey_Star

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I finally got around to putting some of the SS rope in the Hybrid Elite and I have to say I really like this stuff.

IMAG2001-1.jpg

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Ok so that is a stainless wire cable with a mesh sleeve on it? What diameter on the cable and where can I get it? How does it differ from straight mesh?
 

Lhartman89

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Ok so that is a stainless wire cable with a mesh sleeve on it? What diameter on the cable and where can I get it? How does it differ from straight mesh?

Yea, it is SS rope/wire. I bought 3/32" from Tractor Supply Co and it was $1.49 a foot. Make sure you do NOT get the galvanized kind. Then I wrapped a little piece of mesh around the top where the coil goes. Just enough to make it around the wire 1 time and maybe a little extra. I also folded the end that ends up on the outside so there isn't the regular edge of mesh but a folded edge if that makes sense. This is so there is less of a chance to get a short. Then I wrapped the coil around it and pulsed it until the mesh was oxidized and the coil was glowing evenly. I think it wicks a lot better as I don't have to do the regular genny tilt like I did with mesh.

This is what it looks like when you go to the store. You will have to ask someone to cut it for you.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/koch-industries-cable-stainless-steel-7-x-7-3-32-in
 
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zipflint

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I'll second everything Lhartman said. It works great and is super cheap by the foot at a hardware store. I DID find out that it WILL unravel if you cut off just a tiny bit. I was toying with the idea of using a very short length of it in a dripper, but it came apart every time.

Put some electrical tape around where you're going to cut, and make that cut in the middle of the tape, if that makes sense. That will help keep it together. And be advised that the small part is going to go flying when you DO make the cut. I always aim mine at a box or something.

Also, I like using an ekowool sleeve instead of mesh for the top part, around which I wrap the coil. This sort-of idiot-proofs the coil. You still need a good, even wrap, but you won't have hard shorts due to sloppy coils. You CAN still get a hot leg though.
 
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