I'm guessing it's been modified... certainly that much power would be pretty ridiculous stock
.i cant build my fogger v4 D: !!!!! (only interested in builds that handle 40watts + perferable 50watts)
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I'm guessing it's been modified... certainly that much power would be pretty ridiculous stock
.
if ANYONE knows about vaping RTA's at crazy wattage.. the Dice man cometh...
he KNOWS madness through and through =) I celebrate his innovations
he KNOWS madness through and through =) I celebrate his innovations
getting tanked rba's to vape at high watts is not that tough, as long as you fully understand the wicking subtitles. One has to look at both ends of the wick though, improper densities on either end will cause dry hits, not adequate wicking, making tanks to vape over 30 watts does take some finesse.
First, are you absolutely sure your density through the coil is correct for the fiber you are using?? How to tell, simple, just wick it, supersaturate the wick, just put on the containment ring and funnel top and vape it like a dripper. All good?? NO??? mess with it till it vape good.
Now that the densities through the coil are fine, now comes the tricky part, got to have the proper density and length of fiber down the wick channels. On the Fogger, I understand that you don't want to extend the wick all the way to the bottom of the wick channels. Basically they should end where the containment ring does. Now need to have not to much fiber down the channels, otherwise it chokes the flow, to little and she floods, just right and you're off to the races.
Basically when it comes to wicking and dry hits it always comes down to play with it till it vape right. Personally feel the Fogger, any version, is a POS, and not worth the price of postage, inferior material, tolerences and quality control. Potty metal on their screws and posts, will NEVER buy another fogger anything. But hey, if it doesn't fall apart while building it, have heard if vape decently.
I have many different tanked rba's, Russian at 70 watts, Flashi up to 100 watts, Aqua 80 watts, Estia(the best) 90 watts, Erlkonigin 30 watts, built it to high
Wick and air, both have to be spot on to get the high watts. One just has to play with it till it vapes right
I have many different tanked rba's, Russian at 70 watts, Flashi up to 100 watts, Aqua 80 watts, Estia(the best) 90 watts, Erlkonigin 30 watts, built it to high
Flashi = flash e vapor?
What version?
Also, of the devices you listed above, which had the most airflow stock? The estia? Other? Thanks.
(I'm starting to think I should have bought the estia > erli based on my vaping preferences...)
you cant go wrong with having the erl... even with your preferences for MOAR air.. there will be juices the flavor is maxed best with erl!
Just because you can't see or do it, doesn't mean it can't be done, and no tis not scorching hot by any means. As long as there is plenty of juice wicked, and adequate air flow to move the vape produced, there is no heat build up of the vape. True the rba may get a bit warm when chain vaping, but the vape itself remains mildly warm and ohh so juicy and flavorful. Have to remember about the thermodynamics of liquids and gas, as juice can't get hotter than the vape point, given a constant air pressure, so as long as it's wicked properly, and has the air to move it, yeah, tis all good.Heck, have one dripper that vapes around 115 watts, and is cooler than some changeable vaped at 10. It's a balancing act. The Russian was me first rba, have built it every which way but loose, or something like that. All it took was a few people saying hey you can't build a Kayfun/Russian sub ohm, it's not well suited for it, and I had to see for my self.
Although not king of the crop anymore, it still puts in a great showing, and is usually included in me daily rotation. And I am not speaking from what I think, or what may be possible, it's what I vape daily, well mostly, sometime Russie gets left behind and others come with. or something like that.
the way I see it... the fogger doesnt have enuf wick capacity for much more than 30W... juice cant keep up with the demand over 30W
kinda like trying to get a CE4 to handle 25W....
kinda like trying to put out a house fire with a garden hose...
kinda like trying to get a CE4 to handle 25W....
kinda like trying to put out a house fire with a garden hose...
Dice:
There's a guy on the UK forums, justpoo, who builds super low ohms builds on tanks as well. Thing is, most of his coils are so huge, and he takes such short drags, that I just know those coils are hardly, if ever, fully heating up. So while it may be a super low ohm build, it isn't actually functioning as one. Not to sound rude, but I also wondering how you are calculating the wattages that you vape at? Voltage drop at .3ohms and lower is extremely significant.
Also, are you suggesting that vapor has a maximum heat? I'm not sure that's correct. I've built my Russian/Kayfun down to .5ohm, and it wicked just fine. Unfortunately, the vapor was sooo hot that it killed the flavor without having enough airflow to cool it properly.
Again, that's just me. Don't take it personally, just creating discussion. Cheers.
There's a guy on the UK forums, justpoo, who builds super low ohms builds on tanks as well. Thing is, most of his coils are so huge, and he takes such short drags, that I just know those coils are hardly, if ever, fully heating up. So while it may be a super low ohm build, it isn't actually functioning as one. Not to sound rude, but I also wondering how you are calculating the wattages that you vape at? Voltage drop at .3ohms and lower is extremely significant.
Also, are you suggesting that vapor has a maximum heat? I'm not sure that's correct. I've built my Russian/Kayfun down to .5ohm, and it wicked just fine. Unfortunately, the vapor was sooo hot that it killed the flavor without having enough airflow to cool it properly.
Again, that's just me. Don't take it personally, just creating discussion. Cheers.
No offense taken, none at all
First off, lets get one thing purrfectly clear, I do not, nor ever have or ever intend to chase clouds.
I was a 30 year smoker camel filters, 1.5 pad killing me softly, smoker. My first e-cig-a-like, and I knew had found a way to not have to smoke. Ever since my first c-a-l, regulated mod & changealbe, always had the something missing in my vape, and went in search of that missing something, and got me fist rba. and found more than what was missing. Since then have chased nothing but Total Vape Satisfaction.
well not to be rude, but you do that math Watson, take a 0.4 ohm build, turn the voltage up to 5.5 volts actual?? Now turn it up to six what do you get??. you tell me. I know the answer, know the amps demanded/pushed, and know it drains a 2600 lipo in a day, well if used in rotation with at least two other apv's it will last all day before in sings it's little goodbye song and goes off line, or something like that,
Sure the watts will vary as the resistance changes slightly due to heat, expansion, electrons being stimulated, that sort of thing, but close enough me thinks, and sure depending whether I'm running single, duals, tri's, the actual watts per coil, whatever.
Spot no, frak, ha..No...frak, where was I, damn Spot, had to put my pizza away, or lose any leftover's damn cat is a pizza addict, and it makes her puke, but if I leave it, she'll just eat it again.
NO, I didn't mention the vape/air's temp, pretty sure I said the liquid's temp could get no hotter than the point to which, well, just slightly just under, to be more exactly speaking, it becomes vapor. That's simple thermodynamic fact about any liquid. fill a paper cup full of water, put it in the camp fire, what do ya get??, well add cocoa, we always called it Hot chocolate.
All I am saying is as long as one gets adequate wicking, and has sufficient air supply/vape flow through, the vape well remain pretty dang kewl. and even cool,
stop drawing on the system and continue to hold the button down, certainly the gaseous atmospheric temperature, contained inside the atomization chamber, will intensify severely on both the Fahrenheit and Celsius scales, And yes, voltage drop increase exponentially each time the ohms are halved, just part of the more advanced postulate equations by Ohms, every EE101 student knows that, well used too anywho
or something like that. The more amps pushed, the less efficient the total load, observing this phenomena offered insight to electron mass. current load mass kind of nonsense. Oh, I wasn't able to push the Russian up into the 70's until the iV-twin build was installed, and got a sub ohm regulated 16 amp mod that is. It actually surprised the frak out of me that it could handle it, but Russie just keeps on surprising me
and of course using a fiber that is impervious to heat, doesn't rot, and trumps rayon on wicking potential helps just a tad too. Right now have bumped up against the maximum flow rate that a capsular connected binary tank system can sustain given the juice viscosity of 70% VG juice. Was thinking of opening the channels a tad. but don't have the proper hardware to do it right. I don't know, maybe don't know what the frak I am doing, but maybe I have caught a clue or two, in vape land, right hear at the ecf.
Frak, everyone knows, vape is progressive, the more one vapes, the better it gets, and the more that is learned, or the progression ends. And since the introduction of high amp regulated, it's no longer necessary to push the super high amp demanding builds to see how far their vape will go.
I always have chuckled abut sweet spots too, everything in vape is a balancing act, and the more complicated the system, the harder it is to juggle. But have found anything over 100 watts is usually pretty damn intense, and I start to whimp out, and is best vaped in a reclined position. Least for this baby boomer. but apparently my sweet spot is 40-75, with a high of 92, an possible flurries into the low 100's.
I understand how to wick properly. Personally, found Rayon fit my needs better than Ramie. Ramie is too springy. Rayon can most definitely handle 70 watts in a tank (sorry not the fv4 haha). Wicking isn't the question here.
Big words or not, 70 watts through a 5/64 airhole is going to be dannnng hot. The tiny stem on the chimney isn't helping any. No room to expand/cool down. Your inhaling vapor, not liquid. I don't question whether or not you enjoy it. I'm simply saying that must be hot. Not sure how you could possibly refute that.
Maybe I'm just a wimp.
EDIT: What chip do you have with a 16amp limit? I know the Raptor has a 20amp limit. Been looking at building, that's why I'm curious.
Big words or not, 70 watts through a 5/64 airhole is going to be dannnng hot. The tiny stem on the chimney isn't helping any. No room to expand/cool down. Your inhaling vapor, not liquid. I don't question whether or not you enjoy it. I'm simply saying that must be hot. Not sure how you could possibly refute that.
Maybe I'm just a wimp.
EDIT: What chip do you have with a 16amp limit? I know the Raptor has a 20amp limit. Been looking at building, that's why I'm curious.
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You sound be wise to visit the fogger v4 thread. Lots of us push our Fv4's pretty hard. Your first move is to go with rayon, cotton doesn't really have what it takes to wick that fast. Lots of people run around 0.4ohm happily, personally I think you start to sacrifice flavor around half an ohm. I dunno what 50 watts equate to as far as say, 4v @ x ohms.
Additionally I can tell you that opening your air holes to 2.5 to 3mm. Is probably what you want to do. I may do that today if I get around to it, but there's a football game starting soon so I may not till tomorrow.
Additionally I can tell you that opening your air holes to 2.5 to 3mm. Is probably what you want to do. I may do that today if I get around to it, but there's a football game starting soon so I may not till tomorrow.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=557281
Fogger v4 : A RBA done right √
Here's where the fogger guys kick it
Fogger v4 : A RBA done right √
Here's where the fogger guys kick it
Two totally different animals, as far as drippes go , I get better flavor out of my quasar than my magma for the record.
I like the magma but it holds heat too much for my liking bc it's so thick.
I just drilled one of my fogger out I'll snap a pic in a sec.
50 watts
Okay, that is one piece of the puzzle. What are the rest?
What were you using that comfortably handled the 50 watts?
What wick configuration?
What size Air channels?
I really don't think you understand how everything works together. If you did, you may have never bought the Fogger in the first place.
Okay, that is one piece of the puzzle. What are the rest?
What were you using that comfortably handled the 50 watts?
What wick configuration?
What size Air channels?
I really don't think you understand how everything works together. If you did, you may have never bought the Fogger in the first place.
dice57 can you give us some specifics of the build you used in the Russian and maybe some pics if possible?
I dunno how your experience with the Fv4 has been but I spend quite a bit of time on them and imo as well as a majority of Fv4 owners, they are the best rebuildable tank atty on the market right now...
I'm not really familiar with wattage equivalents to ohms but there Lite of people running fairly Lite sub ohm builds with them. Personally I think the flavor starts to get sacrificed in favor of vapor production around 0.5 0hm but in running mine at 0.4ohm and it's fan f'ing tastic.
Like I said hi to the fogger thread I linked above.
since you asked so nicely, it would be my pleasure to comply
Oh kay now, after perfecting the way I build the inverted V-twin, vertical mounted dual series coil, and the requests for precise build and wicking instructions with photos, here it comes.
But first, a little history, just because,
Reason I am doing the build in the Vcore thread, is this is where the Snakeyes first made an appearance in my vape career. Vcore got it's start in the nano-dragon coil thread, which is an offshoot of the Micro Coil Thread. Jeremy and I thought vertical mounted builds deserved their own thread. Since he had more experience than I did at the time, opted to let him start this thread, fact I had to push him to start it, threatening him that if he took to long I was going to start it and call in the Romulan Warpcore, or the Klingon Singularity. Volcanic Dragon was another of my suggestions.
Have only been a Vaper for just over 1 year, but my Quest to find that "Something Missing" in my vape, lead me to where I build and vape today. The inverted V was just a natural progression of my vape and trying to optimize the Russian, which was my first rba. Keep in mind also, that every build I do is usually inspired by others builds but applied in a different way or fashion, that helps optimize my rba's.
It is my belief, and a few others, that rba's that supply air from beneath the build are atty's that can benefit by being built vertically. the air flowing through the coils seems to help optimize rba's of this design. Least for me, this has been the case. I build the Aqua, Magma, Russian, and Rose2 all vertically, with great success. And on all those mentioned atty's, I vape them at a minimum of 70 watts, with the Aqua and Magma's in the 90's
Have found that single air supply rba's like the Russian and Rose2, an inverted V vapes much smoother, with no hot leg, and can vape at much higher watts then a single vert in the same space. On the Russian especially, it is my preferred build, and only one I'll have on it, just fits it purrfectly. Also, this is the easiest build to re-wick, dry burn and maintain. And is more tolerant on wicking densities.
I use an Artisian Wire coil jig to wrap all my coils now. Can be found at any Michaels Hobby, or amazon dot com. I keep heavy tension on the wire when doing my wraps, keeping as fluid and constant in my tension and coiling as possible.
Here is a pic of the latest V-twin that I just installed on the rose. This is after have done all my wraps, pulled back the wire one round each on each leg, then pulled off the 1.5 wraps I needed to get my target ohms of 0.366 .
When doing the V-twin, one has to keep in mind your mounting requirements and placement of where you want to have the end leads once coil is bent into the V. Do I want the leads on the outside of the coils, or on the inner surface. On the Rose2 they need to be on the outside surface, or no air will get up the stacks, with the Russian, outside and mid way works well, depends if you are using the mounting holes or the under screw head sites. In either case, need the outside of the coil wraps to be even with the inside surface of the mounting blocks once bent into position.
The next pic is for the Rose2 coil, and the following shows the exact same coil on the Russian.
As you can see, am using the mounting holes that go through the Russian post blocks. Cut off a couple lengths from my wrapping mandrel, and use these sections to help in mounting and bending this coil. Once it's decided where the leads are to end up, I use a small pocket knife blade to count the wire loops, to position the blade between the middle gap. Use the mandrel section in the coil while doing this, once I know where to bend, work the blade between the coil wraps, then pull the mandrel back enough to work the blade completely between the wraps where to bend. Then bend the coil into the a V. once both mandrels can go through each coil, will use needle nose pliers to tidy every thing up, squeezing it here and there if necessary to get everything just right.
Once the correct V angle is attained, then bend the legs into the correct plane and orientation for assembly and mounting. With the rose this requires a leg length of 1 cm. Less and the coil will be to close to the air intake and the center wick will plug the air. It can be a hair less than 1 cm, but a very fine hair. With the Russian, leave the legs long, slide legs through holes, bend coil up into position, adjust, then tighten down the screws and trim the ends.
Wicking, using both Ramie and Rayon fiber in exactly the same wicking method and procedure. And pretty damn close the same densities and thickness. The following pics is wicking Rose2's coil, but the process is the same for the Russian, but with the coil mounted.
First get the amount of wick to start with. This is the stand of ramie I selected, did cut this one in half, before wetting it.
Then wet my wick with juice, applying enough to soak the wick and get everything nice and orderly. Here's half the length of the same strand of Ramie after juice is worked in and loose ends trimmed off.
Notice, shaped the ramie into the form and thickness of what is being wicked.. Working it to fit the length of the coils. Once in the correct shape, place the wick between the coils, or if mounted, thread it between.
Then warp both tails around the coil:
Once each tail is wrapped 1.5 times around the coil, fold the tails up;
On the Russian, coil is already mounted, and this is when to secure the containment ring, trim off any excess wick tail, then tuck the wick into the juice decks. ending up with this:
On the Rose, just grab the wick wrapped col build and insert the coil legs into the mounting holes, tighten the set screws, then tuck the wick tail into the first juice ports:
Then I'll usually pull half the width of the wick back, and tucking it down to the deck and out the opposing juice port. If there is not enough wick to fill all four juice ports, then just grab a spare strand and place in the opposing port and tuck it down and over the other end.
Then trim everything up, saturate.
assemble fill and vape.
New wicks I break in straight mech, so say 45 watts is what she's doing, slap her on the S.Max and dial it up to 5.5 volts and we are doing the "Smoke on the Water" warp 80 boggie.
On this build I used 22 gage Kanthal A1 wire. 12 wraps around a ~16 gage mandrel will net 0.42 ohms, wrapped this one at 10.5 wraps and nailed 0.367, or their abouts
Will be posting this on several threads, but couldn't of built this with out the work done by others first, micro coil, nano dragon, Vcore, just hemp, just ramie, rayon, you name it, Istealcultivate ideas from the best, then apply it towards my needs and goals. So thanks ecf for making me the vaper I am today.
Vape long and Prosper.!!!!
Would apologize for the post's length, but frak it, had more then one request for this build, and didn't want to leave anything out.
Oh, and I wanted to add, this build works phenomenal at any ohm build you are aiming for. I initially had the Russian at 1.8 ohms with this build on the Provari, vaping at 15 watts, and it like blew me away. Have used twisted wire of every sort on the iV, with great suprising results. Tiger, M.Mundy, Savannah, double and tripple twisted 28, you name it, all Vapped Fran Frakking Tasitic.!!!
The reason I am now using 22 gauge is because I am targeting a very specific ohm build. Namely my target ohms is 0.3667 ohms. Yeah, I know, dreamer and , what?, Why that #. Well, have a SuperMax, and it's max output is found at 5.5 volts and 15 amps. Hit the target I'm regulated vaping in the 80's. 0.4 will get ya 75.
Also, while I love twisted combo's, find mounting them haphazard in some rba's. especially on posts that share multiple wire leads. Oh well, got to play with some things it seems.
Now aren't you glad you asked
@Tbev, fraking fogger best tanked rba on the market???? Seriously??? Umm, I'd give that award along with the most innovative rba to date, to the Gus Estia 510. Native Tri-coiled, 6 wick channels, raised air jet intakes below coil, so makes flooding something you have to work really hard and diligently to do, air control, juice control, yeah, makes the fogger look like a pt2
Heck, Big Buddha tis way better too, and would say Erlkonigin pretty much squashes fogger also. And that's not even addressing the quality control issues risk involved with buying such a econo level of product. Just sayingThanks for that post. I'll give it a shot next time I rebuild my Russian. Do you do the same build on your Fogger but with dual v-twins?
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