I don't want to waste my money

Status
Not open for further replies.

comeonhitme

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 7, 2012
214
185
tampa bay
ive been looking at what I'm going to buy next for the past couple of weeks. My current setup is an iStick 30w and a Aspire CF with 2 nautilus Minis. I'm thinking of taking the next step with a new regulated mod. One that either holds a single or dual battery or possibly a mechanical mod. I don't want to waste my money on something cheap that I will 'grow out of'. I am also thinking of going for a new tank or RBA or rda. Is this the route I should take?

Suggestions on gear and new mods, etc. websites. Prices.

Thank you guys always
 

EvilGenius

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 13, 2014
501
177
nj
the eleaf istick 50 is a good deal at $50 for 50 watts and a 4400 mah rechargeable internal battery, so you can do ohms at .2 and up however at .2 ohms itll be a weak vape so go to .3 ohms if you want to sub ohm that way you can play with coil building and rda's

or just go with mech mods but read up on ohms law and use good batteries
 

BraveNewWorld

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 18, 2014
289
267
Pennsylvania
I had 20 watts, 30 watts, and 50 watts. Tanks and drippers, and keep in mind dripping was inconvenient for me. I'm a flavor chaser. I bought a REO in the beginning of March, and for the first time I'm thinking of buying something besides vaping supplies with my vape budget. I can still run a .3 or .4 dual coil on the Reo as well if I want to cloud chase and lung hit for the day. Every set-up has its pluses and minuses but I found what I was looking for I hope you do too. But look into Reos mods forum here to ask any questions you have, they are very informative. And completely mechanical and water proof, hmmm life proof lol. Good luck!
 

comeonhitme

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 7, 2012
214
185
tampa bay
What are you looking for in a new device? More power, longer battery life, sub-ohm capability, etc.? There's lots out there to choose from but in the end, the only one who can decide what device is right for you, is you.

I think you hit the nail on the head with your comment. Longer battery life and sub ohm capability. I feel I'm limited in mods with internal batteries that are plug in chargeable. But if I did get an internal battery it would be either an iStick 50 or MVP 3.

I have yet to rebuild or sub ohm. But I know long term this is something I will do. I was thinking of starting by getting a Kanger subtank that way I can have premade coils as well as an rba. I hear a lot of people mention the Mutation RBA. How is that? My only concern is I need to buy the starter costs such as wire, cotton, an ohm reader, etc. do you think it is too soon to start?

I want another box mod or mech mod so that I have a nice backup or swap when I'm charging the other
 

Libbydude

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 14, 2012
604
1,080
Idaho
There is plenty you can explore with the istick 30. I have a mini 2 but hang out between 18 and 30 watts. There are plenty of single or dual coil builds you can put into the rda you fancy and have a great experience! But there's nothing more fun than helping people spend their money! I'm sure you will see some very good suggestions in this thread. Personally, I think you're set up pretty good right now. Only need a derringer for the top of your istick
 

Hitmetwice

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jan 18, 2012
2,585
2,152
Ontario
What are the benefits of a Mech Mod. Besides that they look cool as hell?

For me it's nice to have a fresh spare batt. always ready to go.(As long as you grab 2)
The 25r lasts at least a day for me(0.5ohm) but if I'm headed out and unsure of my return time,
it's easy to toss in the spare batt., 30ml. juice and a spare coil into a case and I'm sure to be good for a couple days easy. Cheers.
 

Ou2mame

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 24, 2015
2,119
1,258
Long island
I think you hit the nail on the head with your comment. Longer battery life and sub ohm capability. I feel I'm limited in mods with internal batteries that are plug in chargeable. But if I did get an internal battery it would be either an iStick 50 or MVP 3.

I have yet to rebuild or sub ohm. But I know long term this is something I will do. I was thinking of starting by getting a Kanger subtank that way I can have premade coils as well as an rba. I hear a lot of people mention the Mutation RBA. How is that? My only concern is I need to buy the starter costs such as wire, cotton, an ohm reader, etc. do you think it is too soon to start?

I want another box mod or mech mod so that I have a nice backup or swap when I'm charging the other

I just use my mvp to read the ohms, but I know how many wraps at what diameter of which gauge will achieve the 1.5 ohms I'm looking for and can create that every time. Japanese cotton or cellucotton, and 25' of wire, you can get for under 10 bucks combined on ebay.
 

ElevenEleven

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jan 5, 2015
930
600
35
I take my mech with me when I go out. Its more pocket friendly, but only if the switch is locked of course.

I suggest that you move away from anything with an internal battery. Its costly but you need to consider it as an investment. You'll need good batts and a good charger. If you go the rebuildable route then you'll need to factor in wire, wick, and a good ohm meter.
 

comeonhitme

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 7, 2012
214
185
tampa bay
I take my mech with me when I go out. Its more pocket friendly, but only if the switch is locked
I suggest that you move away from anything with an internal battery. Its costly but you need to consider it as an investment. You'll need good batts and a good charger. If you go the rebuildable route then you'll need to factor in wire, wick, and a good ohm meter.

That's what I'm trying to figure out. Why go away from the internal battery. I see that there is IMO maybe:
65% battery/mech mods ( stingray, IPV, sigalei, sx yihi, dna, etc.)
compared to 35% internal battery mods (iStick, MVP, etc)

I want to blow bigger clouds (than in my Nautilus Minis) and get better flavor, longer batt, more efficient and built-to-last mod.

I know that a big part of this is getting an Rba or better tank system

I should also state that I use a 50/50 pg/vg blend. 12ml.
 
Last edited:

SJClouds

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Feb 25, 2015
92
40
San Jose, CA, USA
I recently had a 20w iStick with a nautilus mini and I just upgraded this week to a sigelei 50w with a subtank mini and I love this thing. I don't mind the switching out of the batteries cause it came with two so I just charge one while using the other one. The subtank gives out great flavor and clouds while using the .5 coil. One downside to batteries though is you might have to spend a little more if you only get one battery or if you want to get a charger for your battery but after you get all those you should be set for a while. If you don't want to deal with all that then I think you should go with the 50w iStick.
 

EvlSmrk

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 24, 2014
202
390
Pulaski, NY
IMO the big draw for mechanicals is that they just plain work, as well as looking awesome. Short of doing something that ruins the threads, all you need to do is a little cleaning on occasion and it'll work. When you're batteries die on an internal battery device you're on the hunt for another one...when they die with a mech, you only need to swap the battery. Getting started can be more expensive, but I think it pays off in the long run. That all being said, mechanicals are what they are and are now being overpowered by the newer devices. VW, and VV, are more forgiving when it comes to coil build since you can adjust the power output of the device up till you've reached a limit, not the case with mechanicals. For where you're at now, you might be able to get what you're looking for by swapping from your Nautilus to a Kanger Sub-Tank.
 

umanbean

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 28, 2009
590
11,112
Georgia, USA
IMO the big draw for mechanicals is that they just plain work, as well as looking awesome. Short of doing something that ruins the threads, all you need to do is a little cleaning on occasion and it'll work. When you're batteries die on an internal battery device you're on the hunt for another one...when they die with a mech, you only need to swap the battery. Getting started can be more expensive, but I think it pays off in the long run. That all being said, mechanicals are what they are and are now being overpowered by the newer devices. VW, and VV, are more forgiving when it comes to coil build since you can adjust the power output of the device up till you've reached a limit, not the case with mechanicals. For where you're at now, you might be able to get what you're looking for by swapping from your Nautilus to a Kanger Sub-Tank.

That's what I just did, about 3 weeks ago.

I've been using Protank 2's with Aerotank (v1) bases and rebuilt coils, on mech mods, for almost two years now.

I didn't know it, but it turns out... I was just biding my time and waiting for the iStick 30 and SubTank Mini to come out. Luv this little rig!

If I'd had this two years ago, wouldn't have needed to buy anything else... except more iSticks and Minis.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread