Could it be the tube? Maybe I should just try to order another one as opposed to assuming the coil was the issue.... but I wonder how a bad tube would cause it to leak out the bottom onto the battery?
I guess the t3 kanger is not for me...
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Could it be the tube? Maybe I should just try to order another one as opposed to assuming the coil was the issue.... but I wonder how a bad tube would cause it to leak out the bottom onto the battery?
Okay all three are present, mine is exactly like the picture. My other one has no plastic on the middle however, I just see a black rubber bland like ring.
Like I said I am happy with CE4's, but I do have to figure this out, as I'm young in my vaping experience but I do want to make informed decisions about what I use and not just give up because of a few hiccups. Thanks for the input thus far, it's waaay past bedtime I'll be checking back in the morning
An SST eGo?- i.e. vs a Joyetech eGo? Kanger is very proprietary to the official eGo battery. You may have to buy a specific converter thread/ring thingie (Guys, help me out here, my brain's gone blank!).
Personally I couldn't get on with the T3, it didn't seem to want to have anything to do with me - but I do loooove my Kanger T2's, easiest to just fill n go
Personally I couldn't get on with the T3, it didn't seem to want to have anything to do with me - but I do loooove my Kanger T2's, easiest to just fill n go
Get a vivi nova,easy to rebuild,the kanger t3 is hard to rebuild,novas have a good name and dont leak at all.
Don't know about that "black rubber band like ring". I've never seen such a ring on one of these. The ones I have look just like the picture. I believe that middle white gasket seals the positive connector assembly as it sits just below the coil. Having this one leak would mean it leaks out of the bottom at the connector. The top gasket seals the air tube when the coil is fully threaded in. Having this one leak I think would result in gurgling.
Ordering a tube may be worth it to try and figure out what's going on. I swear by the T3's and like them much better than the Stardusts. Also try disassembling the coil, taking off the top (as shown in picture) gasket, then the middle gasket, then wiggling the tube off. At this time, you should see two pieces of wick fall off, be careful you don;t lose these. If they don't fall off they will be siting right on top of the coil and can be just picked off, Then you will see the coiled wick underneath. Reassemble it making sure everything is nice and tight and making sure you place back the two loose wicks.
Here is a video showing how to disassemble and rebuild a T3 coil:
An SST eGo?- i.e. vs a Joyetech eGo? Kanger is very proprietary to the official eGo battery. You may have to buy a specific converter thread/ring thingie (Guys, help me out here, my brain's gone blank!).
Personally I couldn't get on with the T3, it didn't seem to want to have anything to do with me - but I do loooove my Kanger T2's, easiest to just fill n go
Yes, the T3's, like the Stardusts (CE4's?) require Ego threading. An adapter like this one should work on 510 batteries:
eGo Adapter 510 - Outside Threaded for eGo Cone [gotvapes-EGO510adapter] - $4.25 : GotVapes.com, E-cigarette Supplies - Atomizers Cartomizers Mods Juice and more
I bought almost all of my T3's from there and haven't had any problems at all.
Hi, hope you have got the T3 sorted by now- hope for your sake and mine too. I recently invested in a couple of T3s and also got 2 extra coils as well. The first unit is still going great but when I tried the 2nd i didn't work at all. Checked out a few videos and saw a guy pull one apart so I decided to try the same thing. It is very easy. I immediately discovered that the defective coil didn't even have a wick! I popped in one of my replacements and it has worked fine since then. Both units have worked great for the last 7 days so I just ordered 2 more plus 6 spare coils - at $2 each that's no big deal. I mentioned the missing wick to my supplier and suggested if he gets more reports of failures then he should contact his wholesaler or the manufacturer in China and ask them to pick up their game. Meanwhile, I was hoping it was just a case of somebody in the factory having a bad day. Your post worried be a bit though so I'm going to work the hell out of all my T3s to see how they stand up. Good luck.
Just curious, was it missing all wicks, including the coiled one, or just the two extra ones that are not coiled?
I've been using T3's without any issues. I prefer the bottom wick as it eliminates any dry hits and burning taste. I have found though that before you first vape your T3, take 2 tweezers, grab the wick and tug slightly at the same time so that it's good and taught. You don't have to put too much pressure on the wick. Just a slight nudge works. Then before you fill it with juice take a few drops of plain nicotine (you could use your favorite juice if you want) drop on the wick. You only need to do this the very first time. I have yet to have a problem with leaking on the T3.
There are some liquids however, that will cause issues with any Clearomizer. Bananna and some citrus flavors cause issues. I never use those juices, so I haven't experienced any problems.
There are some liquids however, that will cause issues with any Clearomizer. Bananna and some citrus flavors cause issues. I never use those juices, so I haven't experienced any problems.
I had a similar prob and was about to give up I found a solution to the problem will post it in detail as soon as I have time! Now this thing is amazing
It's a design flaw of bottom-coil clearos, need right balance of wick material to prevent flooding/dry hits...had the same issue with my T3 but was able to fix it by rebuilding with cotton (easy to do with a pair of tweeter). Another thing you can try is to add a small cotton wick (cotton ball or batten) above the silica wick to prevent it from flooding, but too much may result in dry hits.
And for the people who have mentioned the second wick... is there another one that is not visible without taking it apart? I just need to take it apart when I get home from work I see...
There are actually 3 wicks, one is coiled and the other two just sit on top of the coiled one. They may or may not stick out the side. To really see them you need to take it apart. Just watch the video I posted above, it's easy.
BTW, the disassembly starts at 1:10 in the video and goes for about 30 secs, it's that easy. The rest of the video is about rebuilding the coiled wick and reconnecting it, which is something I've never done and don't plan on doing. 
You also want to learn to disassemble it for cleaning and dry burning. Take it apart as in the video, remove the two loose wicks, rinse them and blot them dry with paper towel. Rinse the assembled coiled wick under running warm water, DO NOT PULL THIS ONE OFF the base. Dry gently with paper towel. Screw the base on a charged battery and give it 2-3 second fire ups until you see the coils start to glow red. You will see some vapor come off the coils while you do this. Wait a few seconds for it to cool off, then place the two loose wicks back on, reinsert the tube and slide the silicone seal over it and you're done.
You also want to learn to disassemble it for cleaning and dry burning. Take it apart as in the video, remove the two loose wicks, rinse them and blot them dry with paper towel. Rinse the assembled coiled wick under running warm water, DO NOT PULL THIS ONE OFF the base. Dry gently with paper towel. Screw the base on a charged battery and give it 2-3 second fire ups until you see the coils start to glow red. You will see some vapor come off the coils while you do this. Wait a few seconds for it to cool off, then place the two loose wicks back on, reinsert the tube and slide the silicone seal over it and you're done.
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