i had a thought about oxidising SS mesh

[jazon1]

just a thought might try it later today,
but has anyone tried to use salted water(lowered ph) for quenching SS mesh after torching it?
i wondering if it would have any effect on the oxidation,obviously you would want to rinse and torch the wick again to remove any salt left overs before using it.

i know stainless steal is pretty resistant to salts but i would assume having it glowing red hot would probably negate most of that resistance,any how has anyone tried this? if so what was your results if any.

 

[Rule62]

I don't quench at all. I found that quenching makes the wick more brittle.

 

[jazon1]

i normally quench after my first torching then torch it twice more after letting it cool on its own but am always looking for a better method to get a good oxidation.

 

[iamtumus]

that soundslike too much oxidation to me.
i just let the whole wick glow red for 5 seconds once and do juice burns.

 

[Rule62]

that soundslike too much oxidation to me.
i just let the whole wick glow red for 5 seconds once and do juice burns.

I do about the same. 1 torching, keep it red for a few seconds, no quenching, then 3 juice burns. I only torch the part that will be under the wick, and down through the wick hole. The part that's inside the tank is not torched.

 

[Thrasher]

i would think since you are basically burning the chromium (this is what makes SS stainless) that it would be more susceptible to corrosion afterwards if doused in salt water. and lead to mure leeching of the oxidation back into the tank

I only torch the part that will be under the wick, and down through the wick hole

i agree with this if using a regulated VV all that crazy oxidizing is not needed and just clogs the pores anyways if overdone.

if using a mech mod learn the non oxy method and it will rock.

i now have a cheap mech just for setting up unoxy wicks them move them to the provari.

 

[ninfreak]

all i do is torch it and shove it in the tank. has worked fine for me been doing this since march of last year. i used to do juice burns and quenching and all that nonsence...it just isn't neccesary at all

 

[Rule62]

i would think since you are basically burning the chromium (this is what makes SS stainless) that it would be more susceptible to corrosion afterwards if doused in salt water. and lead to mure leeching of the oxidation back into the tank
i agree with this if using a regulated VV all that crazy oxidizing is not needed and just clogs the pores anyways if overdone.

if using a mech mod learn the non oxy method and it will rock.

i now have a cheap mech just for setting up unoxy wicks them move them to the provari.

Actually, when I think about it, there's no such thing as an unoxidized wick. When you are setting up an "unoxidized" wick, you are oxidizing it. Otherwise, it wouldn't work. It would short. What differs is the method. When you are setting up an "unoxidized" wick, you are oxidizing it with the coil, instead of a flame.

 

[Thrasher]

Actually, when I think about it, there's no such thing as an unoxidized wick. When you are setting up an "unoxidized" wick, you are oxidizing it. Otherwise, it wouldn't work. It would short. What differs is the method. When you are setting up an "unoxidized" wick, you are oxidizing it with the coil, instead of a flame.

to a lesser degree this is sort of correct. with the unoxidized mech mod trick while it is building up oxidation there is no true oxy of the wick itself, just the immediate area sitting under the coil so in essence 90% of the wick is still unoxidized in the sense we have come to know.

to give you an idea of how small an area this really is if i pull the wick up a few mm i have to start over.

 

[Filth E Mcnasti]

I have a hard time with oxidizing mesh personally. Very frustrating!

 

[Penner]

Be careful oxidizing stainless steel. Read this excellent discussion on whats in the oxidation residue:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...08-stainless-steel-mesh-oxide-discussion.html

 

[Thrasher]

originally i was pming with that person and convinced him to just post it up for everyone to get involved, it was his initial research that made me try the peterk non oxy method.

in the end its still less toxic then the heavy metals and 4000 chemicals in a cig.
while i think health concers should be taken seriously i am nontheless amused that the people who smoke 2 pad for 30 years are suddenly scared the fluff in the carto is burning.

 

[j4mmin42]

all i do is torch it and shove it in the tank. has worked fine for me been doing this since march of last year. i used to do juice burns and quenching and all that nonsence...it just isn't neccesary at all

This sounds about right. I use 316L which is a ..... to oxidize correctly, but all it takes is a few runs over a hot flame and it's good to go, usually.

Edit: Just caught up on that thread about oxidation. I'm definitely concerned about this...not sure where this leaves me when it comes to vaping, honestly. After years of both smoking and then vaping, I'm having second thoughts about the it all.

 

[StaircaseWit]

Edit: Just caught up on that thread about oxidation. I'm definitely concerned about this...not sure where this leaves me when it comes to vaping, honestly. After years of both smoking and then vaping, I'm having second thoughts about the it all.

Has me a bit worried as well. Two years of vaping silica and unknown carto filler, I thought I'd made a wise choice getting into a stainless mesh RBA. Now I'm not so sure. I've been reading up on cotton-hybrid wicks, and since I've already built a few it may be a viable option (for me, at least).