I have seen the light! (No more mech mod for me)

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Stinkytofus

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For about 6 years I used low resisteance, bridgeless, 510 atomizers on mechanical mods (Silverbullet, Caravela Mod). I thought this was as good as it got.

I posted on the forum a few weeks ago after purchasing a nautilus Mini and being a little underwhelmed, I found out that my mechanical hardware and AW 18650 Protected batteries were a bit outdated and a tad dangerous.

I just received my Vapor Flask Lite and 2 LG HG2 INR18650 3000mAh batteries and it is sAweet.

There are two good things about this:

1) I'm getting warm voluminous vapor once again like I got used to with dripping.

2) I have piece of mind knowing that I'm less likely to die from a homemade pipebomb haha

Thanks ECF



p.s. Maybe once day I'll venture into Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer Territory. But for now, I'm content :)
exactly why i got regulated, i rather pay for a new mod every year than deal with permanent damages to my face for the rest of my life

40-100 a year vs. $5000+ medical fess + pain if it ever explodes on you, dont get me wrong i am VERY careful as it is and i still get shorts once in a blue moon (wire too thing and snapped by screw), and i accidentally continuously fired once, too scary
 
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Completely Average

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Why would anyone use a mechanical when there are digital screens and clicky buttons to fail?
Hmmmm......
View attachment 551759 View attachment 551763 View attachment 551761



Everyone can just use regulated devices.View attachment 551765

Straw man's argument.

The truth is, all of those cars with digital screens and clicky buttons are FAR more reliable than those old mechanical cars ever were. Back in the muscle car era a car was considered ready for the junk yard when it had 100,000 miles on it, today some cars haven't even had their engine properly broken in until that point. I've had a pretty wide collection of muscle cars in my time, and the most miles I got out of any of them was about 140k. Before buying my Mustang I sold my 2004 Infiniti G35 with 265k miles on it and it still ran like new. My Mustang with it's digital screens and clicky buttons only needs an oil change once every 10,000 miles and a tuneup once every 100,000 miles. My old 1970 Cougar didn't even make it to 100,000 miles before it needed a complete engine and transmission rebuild.

There are only 9 passenger cars that have more than 1 million documented miles on them. 5 of them were build after 1990, have electronic ECU units, and lots of clicky buttons. 3 more were made in the 1980s and still have electronic ECU and electronically controlled fuel injection, as well as power windows and door locks. Only 1 car is purely mechanical, a 1966 Volvo.



Let me ask you this....

When was the last time you had a television remote fail? Clicky buttons and circuit boards really are not unreliable, are they?
 
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Bad Ninja

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Straw man's argument. And very uninformed as well.

The truth is, all of those cars with digital screens and clicky buttons are FAR more reliable than those old mechanical cars ever were. Back in the muscle car era a car was considered ready for the junk yard when it had 100,000 miles on it, today some cars haven't even had their engine properly broken in until that point. I've had a pretty wide collection of muscle cars in my time, and the most miles I got out of any of them was about 140k. Before buying my Mustang I sold my 2004 Infiniti G35 with 265k miles on it and it still ran like new. My Mustang with it's digital screens and clicky buttons only needs an oil change once every 10,000 miles and a tuneup once every 100,000 miles. My old 1970 Cougar didn't even make it to 100,000 miles before it needed a complete engine and transmission rebuild.

And I won't even bother comparing the performance. My 2012 Mustang would run circles around any street legal muscle car I ever owned without even trying hard.


Let me ask you this....

When was the last time you had a television remote fail? Clicky buttons and circuit boards really are not unreliable, are they?

Again, you totally missed the point.

I drive those cars because I can.
I can service them easily myself, the outperform the newer cars, at a fraction of the price.
As far as the mod analogy it fits perfectly.
User serviceability is important to nicotine addicts looking to break the financial tether. With upcoming regulations, mechanicals and building are topics you might want to educate yourself on.
;)

How many manual window cranks have you seen that have failed?.
:)
I replaced a power window switch in a friend's '09 Audi last week.
 

Completely Average

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These are some reasons to use a mechanical. Try finding a regulated mod that looks like these:

steampunkmod2.jpeg

Vaperevolution_otto-carter-chi_you-5-430x244.jpg




OK, I'll play...

dacec8d56c8493282310228864dd3777.jpg


3cf8d252d6dedd909761e17cee5266f1.jpg


gaukAWy.jpg


6C7XpRa.jpg



 

Completely Average

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Again, you totally missed the point.

I drive those cars because I can.

That's nice. I can drive any car I want.

I can service them easily myself, the outperform the newer cars, at a fraction of the price.

The easiest car I've ever worked on is my 2012 Mustang. I did a complete rear suspension swap in just 2 hours using nothing but hand tools in my garage.

I won't even begin to explain what a total PITA it is to replace the water pump in a 1972 Olds 442.


As far as the mod analogy it fits perfectly.
User serviceability is important to nicotine addicts looking to break the financial tether. With upcoming regulations, mechanicals and building are topics you might want to educate yourself on.
;)

And you may want to familiarize yourself with actual hardware outside of your limited experience. I've got a 3 year old regulated box mod that works like new and I've done nothing other than cleaning the 510 connector and replaced the battery.

How many mechanical mods can you say you've used for 3 years and done less to? Honestly? :p



How many manual window cranks have you seen that have failed?.
:)

MANY. More than I can count. Literally dozens of cars that I've sat in with the window half way down and you turn the handle and nothing happens. Stripped handle cranks are extremely common.


I replaced a power window switch in a friend's '09 Audi last week.

That's because your friend bought an overpriced VW. Tell him next time to buy a quality car.


And just as a tip here, if you're going to try to argue reliability and serviceability in cars, pick on someone who hasn't been building cars since the 1980s and doesn't own a drag car and a show car, as well as having a highly customized daily driver. And guess what, my daily driver is that new car with digital displays and lots of clicky buttons. That's the one I use for my daily driver needs where the car has to be absolutely reliable, all of the time, without question.

;)
 
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Bad Ninja

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That's nice. I can drive any car I want.



The easiest car I've ever worked on is my 2012 Mustang. I did a complete rear suspension swap in just 2 hours using nothing but hand tools in my garage.

I won't even begin to explain what a total PITA it is to replace the water pump in a 1972 Olds 442.




And you may want to familiarize yourself with actual hardware outside of your limited experience. I've got a 3 year old regulated box mod that works like new and I've done nothing other than cleaning the 510 connector and replaced the battery.

How many mechanical mods can you say you've used for 3 years and done less to? Honestly? :p





MANY. More than I can count. Literally dozens of cars that I've sat in with the window half way down and you turn the handle and nothing happens. Stripped handle cranks are extremely common.




That's because your friend bought an overpriced VW. Tell him next time to buy a quality car.


And just as a tip here, if you're going to try to argue reliability and serviceability in cars, pick on someone who hasn't been building cars since the 1980s and doesn't own a drag car and a show car, as well as having a highly customized daily driver. And guess what, my daily driver is that new car with digital displays and lots of clicky buttons. That's the one I use for my daily driver needs where the car has to be absolutely reliable, all of the time, without question.

;)

I sold my automotive suspension part manufacturing company when I retired.
;)
I have a litle expwrience with cars.
:p

If a Water pump on a 1972 olds is difficult you are doing it wrong.



Again totally missing the point.


I have over 100 mods. I used to help out 3 local stores stores with mod repairs.

But by all means pretend I have no experience.

:)
 
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Layzee Vaper

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I have been vaping for a while now and have tried most forms, cigalikes, ego types, regulated, unregulated and mechs.

I tend to buy a mod and use it all day every day, perhaps I was unlucky but the longest I got out of my regulated mods was 9 months.

Its a shame that the market will probably not get to a mature point where reliability is more important than pushing 200W. We can thank the FDA for that.

Overall I prefer the simple and robust nature of a mech. If you educate yourself in battery safety, keep your builds at a reasonable level and use a mod with a fuse or hot spring it's pretty safe. None of this is beyond most adults.

Nothing against anyone that use's a regulated mod, I just needed a reliable and long term solution.
 

crxess

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Straw man's argument.

The truth is, all of those cars with digital screens and clicky buttons are FAR more reliable than those old mechanical cars ever were. Back in the muscle car era a car was considered ready for the junk yard when it had 100,000 miles on it, today some cars haven't even had their engine properly broken in until that point. I've had a pretty wide collection of muscle cars in my time, and the most miles I got out of any of them was about 140k. Before buying my Mustang I sold my 2004 Infiniti G35 with 265k miles on it and it still ran like new. My Mustang with it's digital screens and clicky buttons only needs an oil change once every 10,000 miles and a tuneup once every 100,000 miles. My old 1970 Cougar didn't even make it to 100,000 miles before it needed a complete engine and transmission rebuild.

There are only 9 passenger cars that have more than 1 million documented miles on them. 5 of them were build after 1990, have electronic ECU units, and lots of clicky buttons. 3 more were made in the 1980s and still have electronic ECU and electronically controlled fuel injection, as well as power windows and door locks. Only 1 car is purely mechanical, a 1966 Volvo.



Let me ask you this....

When was the last time you had a television remote fail? Clicky buttons and circuit boards really are not unreliable, are they?

I can remember fully loaded car rolling off the lot for $5995.00 and working one Many of them with well over 140,000 miles. 6Kx4 - $24000. for 400,000 miles at reduced estimates. :D
We have also learned to better take care of what we pay so much more for........or have we. I still see under 100K (Newer) cars trashed by youth all the time.:cool: Blown engines, ripped up transmissions and suspensions ruined.

Op, Hang on to that Mech like your Vape live depends on it.;) One day it may:shock:
 

jambi

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Like most things, used correctly that just doesn't happen. If you smashed yourself repeatedly in the face with a regulated mod, then injury would ensue.
With the range of regulated devices available now you could argue the case for the extinction of mechanical devices. So I ask you, why do knowledgeable people still continue to use them?

I think mechs are going to see a resurgence in popularity post-apocalypse, as people turn to the enthusiast-built mech black market when their Yi-Hi and DNA 200 chips bite the dust.

Welcome to the era of "Non-FDA approved device blows up in guy's face".
 

kiba

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I actually felt the same as you mech guys for a really long time, I started vaping in 2009, my first mechanical mod was a GGTS and have used them exclusively since then, pretty old school I like mech with genny's on top lol, I tried the original Darwin and owned a DNA 20 and they both were junk, my board fried on me in the first week, so after that I swore them off, refused to even try one and just stuck with my mechs...

Anyway It wasn't till a friend let me borrow his CC zero SX and sunbox E8 that I realized how amazing they are... mind you I only vape at ~19watts but it was amazing, everything was better, more warmth, denser vapor, more satisfying (I had to drop down my nic) my juice, actually tasted better, I don't know if it was being vaporized more efficiently or what but it tasted way better. I don't really know how else to explain it but as a hardcore mech user/lover I have to admit, about the only use for them now is when your DNA/SX chip is broken (which happens a lot I'd you have a DNA board) .

So in the end I ended up buying the zero from him and actually making a couple C-Frame DNA 75's for myself and my gf, one thing I do love about them, absolutely anyone can build one, easily.
 
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big4570

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Am I the only one that enjoys both? I have a kennedy ruby mod that doesn't even have a 510 connection. Its the most durable mod in the galaxy with one set of huge copper threads, eliminating all weak points. Right now I'm vaping a year old Sigelei Box mod, tomorrow I may vape a VTC mini or maybe an Oros mech, or maybe I'll continue vaping my Sigelei, or maybe I'll throw my brain for a loop and vape my Dimitri mech.

I enjoy mechs and I enjoy regulated. I appreciate them both and get a great vape from both, can we all just get along? However if you use tanks your LAME drippers are the master race :banana:
 

kiba

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Oh I still vape mechs, I'm looking for a DNA squonker but I will prolly continue to use mechs in the car bc my DNA mods constantly fall over and smash into everything, and don't fit in my vape holder. My buddy let me try out the sunbox e7 for a while and it was amazing in the car but it also fell over whenever I set it down.

But I still get it, compared to mechs all the nice regulated mods are ridiculously overpriced for how easy they are to build... If you have minimal access to a mill you can do what I did and make your own DNA75 powered C-frame that uses CC zero sleeves for under $60 bucks (actually the sleeves were the most expensive part)... I was actualy asked by a few friends after using the mod to make more and I might but I feel like CC wouldn't like the fact I'm using his sleeves and plus there's already plenty of C-frames (wapari, stick man, zero, delta etc.)
 
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