I understand that you are not complaining BP. I just get afraid everytime I see a super box because the most of the times when I open it I get dissapointed of what I see inside it. The opossite is better I think hahaha
I must be doing something wrong.....
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I haven't yet used one on my GG (haven't had it long enough yet to accumulate anything a soft dry cloth won't buff off), but I've used those Cape Cod cloths elsewhere and they are awesome! And they last for quite a while, too
Ok you guys have convinced me I will be ordering one of dem dere clothes umm hmm
I'm just afraid I'll scratch it, and it's too pretty to scratch up!
Very nice mod Imeo, I hardly set it down.
Very nice mod Imeo, I hardly set it down.
Hey that's why you need at least 2 GGTS! One for vapin' and one for polishin' and lookin' at! Can't wait to get some pix of the resurrected #008 and show you guys! 
Noalox is a waste of time on threads. When I first started vaping, the one thing that perplexed me was how every reviewer was stating that you had to apply noalox on the threads?? I am in the aerospace industry, and the only time we put anything on threads is when it is being subjected to EXTREME heat and weather for long periods of time. Then we coat threads with an anti-seize compound consisting of molybdenum, not only that...but the original application of noalox is to help with electrical conductivity.
The threads on a pv mod doesn't require or need anything...no noalox, no vasoline, no nothing. Just wipe clean with a towel or toothbrush at your leisure and they will be fine. If for some reason your pv parts are difficult to thread, it is more than likely because of poor quality control.
Yes, o-rings should get a light coat of petrolatum.
No offense TUC but no one said a word about requiring it. A very light coat of a neutral like petroleum jelly does make the fairly constant turning of the threaded pieces smoother though. Kind of like a door hinge. 
And being in the aerospace industry I suspect you are familiar with the slight seizing that can and does occur with same grade stainless even without extreme heat. Simple friction will create that.
The list goes on but as long as it is a thin coat and Imeo recommends it, for ease of use, we'll continue to do so.
And being in the aerospace industry I suspect you are familiar with the slight seizing that can and does occur with same grade stainless even without extreme heat. Simple friction will create that.
The list goes on but as long as it is a thin coat and Imeo recommends it, for ease of use, we'll continue to do so.
No offense TUC but no one said a word about requiring it. A very light coat of a neutral like petroleum jelly does make the fairly constant turning of the threaded pieces smoother though. Kind of like a door hinge.
None taken, Major. A light coat of petroleum jelly never hurt anything.
Correct, due to oxidation of the two similar metals, (that is why most nuts/bolts are usually made with different specs) but this type of seizing the majority of us will never see in our mods. If you do, it is more likely a QC issue, and not caused by friction from use. Friction becomes an issue when torquing, or when the fastener is being installed 'fast' with a ratchet for instance. Besides, noalox is useless for stainless, it is produced for aluminum.
The list goes on but as long as it is a thin coat and Imeo recommends it, for ease of use, we'll continue to do so.
I agree with you that following the manufacturers recommendations is best, and prudent.
I still think noalox is a waste.
Happy Thanksgiving!
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Yeah nobody should use Noalox anymore. The use of Vaseline in a very thin amount has been working for me since I bought my first GGTS, I will keep applying it. You might say it doesn't require it or need it but I still go by the "better to be safe than sorry".
None taken, Major. A light coat of petroleum jelly never hurt anything.
Correct, due to oxidation of the two similar metals, (that is why most nuts/bolts are usually made with different specs) but this type of seizing the majority of us will never see in our mods. If you do, it is more likely a QC issue, and not caused by friction from use. Friction becomes an issue when torquing, or when the fastener is being installed 'fast' with a ratchet for instance. Besides, noalox is useless for stainless, it is produced for aluminum.
I agree with you that following the manufacturers recommendations is best, and prudent.
I still think noalox is a waste.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Agreed and though it's a dead issue for the GG series, I remain slightly amused that it is still being recommended by others.
I hope you have a great Thanksgiving as well!
Well #%$^!
I'm still killing attys, would you believe?
I do fine, then when the battery goes, I change the battery and then the atty dies!
I'm about to give up.
I'm still killing attys, would you believe?
I do fine, then when the battery goes, I change the battery and then the atty dies!
I'm about to give up.
Let's take it step by step......
What ohm atomizers are you using and what battery setup?
Oh I have no doubt it's user malfunction. LOL
The last I had was 2 - 16340s with a Joye 510 HV 6 atomizer, (approximately 5 ohms) from Super-T Manufacturing.
That lasted me the longest, but the 2nd change of batteries I killed it.
I've also used the same 1 18650 or 1 18490 with a 4ohm 306 atty, killed it.
I believe I used 1 18650 with my HV 901 that I got with the GGTS from CoV, but I think that time I overtightened the end
and killed that one.
I don't have the extender sleeve to use 2 18650s.
Banging my head on the wall here, Para, the PV just isn't that complicated.
It's by far my fav so far when I get the darn thing working.
edited to add:
I keep a list on my desk of which of my battery combos = what voltage
and try to match those up with the atty I'm using.
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When you say you are killing them are they overheating ant popping? Are you cranking it down too tight?
I have a small digital multimeter, with the red and black leads..... is it possible to use that with the attys to check if they are shorted out?
Beats me fright. I put the batteries in from the top, tighten that up, tighten the bottom up until I feel resistance.
The 901 and the 306s worked for a few puffs then nothing.
The 510 set up I mentioned above, lasted until the 2nd time I changed the batteries. Just nothing. No vapor, no noise, nothing.
Trying the attys on a different PV, I still get nothing.
I know someone mentioned a dirty button spring earlier, and I'm considering trying to take that apart to check it, cause
my button still gets warm now and then. I loosen the bottom if I feel it's getting warm.
I haven't managed to get a full days vaping out of it yet, could the button spring be dirty even with so little use?
I'm just thinking I'm using the wrong atty/battery combo and it's getting too hot and killing them.
my button still gets warm now and then. I loosen the bottom if I feel it's getting warm.
I haven't managed to get a full days vaping out of it yet, could the button spring be dirty even with so little use?
I'm just thinking I'm using the wrong atty/battery combo and it's getting too hot and killing them.
You can test the resistance of the atomizers by setting your multimeter to ohms and put the red lead on the atomizers posative pin and the negative on the atty threads and it should read close to whatever ohm your Attys are rated at.
As for batteries it is possible to put them in to tight. I tighten by feel when I feel the spring resistance I usually back off by half a turn. However if this is blowing attys you might try the shake method. Only tighten untill you stop hearing rattling when you shake it with batteries in it.
As for batteries it is possible to put them in to tight. I tighten by feel when I feel the spring resistance I usually back off by half a turn. However if this is blowing attys you might try the shake method. Only tighten untill you stop hearing rattling when you shake it with batteries in it.
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I would do a couple of things:
1. Take your multimeter and check the attys you used and then "killed" to see if they are shorted out. Red to the center post and black to the outer tube. Set the Ohm setting to 200 and test.
2. Check the voltage of each battery in the pairs you use.
3. Stop the HV and multiple batteries until you discover the problem...keep it simple for now. Use a reg ohm or LR and one battery. Vape it for a while and then change the battery and continue to vape the same atomizer.
Use the "Hiss Method" I posted a while back to set the tension on the battery and the atomizer. If the atomizers are shorted, you are probably overtightening the bottom tube and driving the center pin into the atomizer shorting it out.
Lastly, are you getting any excess heat anywhere on the GGTS tube?
Check all the above and post what you find.
1. Take your multimeter and check the attys you used and then "killed" to see if they are shorted out. Red to the center post and black to the outer tube. Set the Ohm setting to 200 and test.
2. Check the voltage of each battery in the pairs you use.
3. Stop the HV and multiple batteries until you discover the problem...keep it simple for now. Use a reg ohm or LR and one battery. Vape it for a while and then change the battery and continue to vape the same atomizer.
Use the "Hiss Method" I posted a while back to set the tension on the battery and the atomizer. If the atomizers are shorted, you are probably overtightening the bottom tube and driving the center pin into the atomizer shorting it out.
Lastly, are you getting any excess heat anywhere on the GGTS tube?
Check all the above and post what you find.
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