I Need Help - Seemingly Impossible Problem that Shouldn't Exist

[DeadbeatJeff]

I have a Titanide Themis 14, running AW 14500s, using a KF mini 2.1.

I cannot get the coil to fire.

• When I take a multimeter to the mod (positive pin and body by the switch) and fire, I'm getting 3.962v (not fresh batts, but exactly what it should be)
• When I take the same multimeter to the atty attached to the mod with no coil (positive screw and negative screw) and fire, I'm getting 3.961v (seems reasonable)
• When I put a 1.0 ohm coil on the same atty and mod, It will not fire.

Strange.

But it gets stranger.

• When I put the same coiled atty on another mod, my Stingray in 18650, it fires just fine.

So you would think the problem is with the mod or the connection with between mod and atty; however, the multimeter seems to indicate that the mod and atty circuit is fine. Furthermore, thinking the problem was the topcap assembly I had the vender send me a new assembly, and the problem is the same. With both the new and old top assembly the coil won't fire.

Did I mention that this exact same atty and mod were working fine for a month and a half? Also that after screwing the coil down the positive and negative blocks are definitely NOT touching? Every thread is sparkling clean, the spring is good. Everything is fine.

But when I coil the atty it won't fire.

Any insight is welcome.

 

[Tbev]

First I'd check the ohms from the pin on the atty make sure there's not a deal short in the kf.
Then I'd say check voltage from 510 connector on mod.

 

[DeadbeatJeff]

the coil measures 1.0ohm from screw to screw and from the 510 pin to negative screw, and like I said the positive pin - body circuit is reading 3.962v, as is the circuit from screw to screw on the uncoiled atty. And it fires fine on a differetn mod.

 

[DeadbeatJeff]

it's Fn nonsense and I'm about to lose it.

 

[Tbev]

Due the mod fire other attys?

 

[twgbonehead]

It's almost certain that the center pins of the 510 connectors aren't making contact between the mod and head. Are these adjustable on either your mod or head? Can you (carefully) pull one of the center pins out farther to get them to make contact?

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Did you take a voltage reading at the posts with the coiled atty on the mod that it won't fire on?

Did you take an ohm reading with the coiled atty on the mod that it won't fire on?

 

[DeadbeatJeff]

Due the mod fire other attys?

no

.......

 

[DeadbeatJeff]

Did you take a voltage reading at the posts with the coiled atty on the mod that it won't fire on?

Did you take an ohm reading with the coiled atty on the mod that it won't fire on?

1.0 ohms from screw to screw, from 510 to negative screw, from positive screw to body by the switch.

When the coiled atty is fired the voltage reads ~1v from screw to screw

 

[Alexander Mundy]

It's almost certain that the center pins of the 510 connectors aren't making contact between the mod and head. Are these adjustable on either your mod or head? Can you (carefully) pull one of the center pins out farther to get them to make contact?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^The 1V firing and 1 ohm installed shows that this is your answer^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[DeadbeatJeff]

It's almost certain that the center pins of the 510 connectors aren't making contact between the mod and head. Are these adjustable on either your mod or head? Can you (carefully) pull one of the center pins out farther to get them to make contact?

but when I read the voltage from post to post without a coil it reads the same as the voltage from terminal to terminal of the battery itself, and other attys won't work either, even ones whose 510s are much longer.

 

[DeadbeatJeff]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^The 1V firing and 1 ohm installed shows that this is your answer^^^^^^^^^^^^^

let me make a 1.0 coil on a different atty and see

it doesn't make sense though cause I used these same KF minis (there are two) wit this same mod for nearly two months wth no problems.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Voltage dropping under load indicates a bad connection somewhere between battery and coil.
Might not necessarily be 510 to 510, but that is the most likely.

 

[AMDTrucking]

I have a Titanide Themis 14, running AW 14500s, using a KF mini 2.1.

I cannot get the coil to fire.

• When I take a multimeter to the mod (positive pin and body by the switch) and fire, I'm getting 3.962v (not fresh batts, but exactly what it should be)
• When I take the same multimeter to the atty attached to the mod with no coil (positive screw and negative screw) and fire, I'm getting 3.961v (seems reasonable)
• When I put a 1.0 ohm coil on the same atty and mod, It will not fire.

Strange.

But it gets stranger.

• When I put the same coiled atty on another mod, my Stingray in 18650, it fires just fine.

So you would think the problem is with the mod or the connection with between mod and atty; however, the multimeter seems to indicate that the mod and atty circuit is fine. Furthermore, thinking the problem was the topcap assembly I had the vender send me a new assembly, and the problem is the same. With both the new and old top assembly the coil won't fire.

Did I mention that this exact same atty and mod were working fine for a month and a half? Also that after screwing the coil down the positive and negative blocks are definitely NOT touching? Every thread is sparkling clean, the spring is good. Everything is fine.

But when I coil the atty it won't fire.

Any insight is welcome.

I understand that your Kayfun reads 1.0 Ohms and works fine on another mod?

So, the problem must be in your Mod or 510 connection between Kayfun and the Mod.

When you measure your Voltage without a load (open circuit) it doesn't mean much. Even if you put a 100 Ohms resistor between your Multi Meter and your Mod, you will still read 3.96... Volts because there is no load.
This is when this little inline Voltmeter really shines: Assembled Volt Indicators, Rev 2 Because it reads Voltage under Load.

You know, you are dealing with an open circuit. Right?
Because if it was SHORT - You would know it in the first few seconds of using your Mechanical Mod. Trust me - you would feel it Hot Hot Hot

There could only be two reasons for it not to fire:
1. Positive pin is NOT making a good electrical connection between Kayfun and your Battery.
2. Your Negative switch is NOT making a good electrical connection between your Battery and the body of the Mod.
To eliminate #2, just unscrew the switch and short the "...." of your Battery to the body of the Mod (using a screw driver) while pushing the battery a little bit forward.
If it fires - you have a bad switch. If it makes no difference - The problem may not be in your switch.

There could have been another explanation if you were using "Protected" battery and your Atomizer was short. But, as far as I know AW 14650 is unprotected.

 

[crxess]

Have you charged the battery back to full charge?
Have you cleaned all the Mods connection/contact points?
Remember the battery +/- are contact points also.

DID YOU TRY ANOTHER BATTERY?

If you have the Atomizer on the mod, the coil out and read:
MOD Body to ATTY Positive and get 3.xxv there is most definitely NOT an open connection. You CANNOT Read through an OPEN.

You CAN Read VOLTAGE in a Battery that will no longer DRIVE a Load.

I have seen first hand, people replacing starters because their battery read over 12v only to later go buy a battery so the car would start.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

You can read full voltage with no load and anything up to full voltage with a bad connection under load. Basic series resistance. Same in a mod as in any electrical circuit.

 

[DeadbeatJeff]

I think I know what has happened, having exhausting myself and all other possibilities.

All I can think is that the switch-body connection is not solid. Although when I made this thread the mod hadn't fired in forever, it just randomly started working again for 5 puffs or so, only to crap out again.

I remember when it was new there was like a thick, white grease on the part of the switch that contacts the body, and my current conclusion (pun intended) is that I need to re-grease the switch. I'm curious if anyone has experience with these two products:

MG Chemicals 846 Carbon Conductive Grease
Noalox® Anti-oxidant Compound

In terms of which would have longer staying power, be less messy, slide better, and provide better conduction. I know the hardware store has the Noalox.

 

[AMDTrucking]

I think I know what has happened, having exhausting myself and all other possibilities.

All I can think is that the switch-body connection is not solid. Although when I made this thread the mod hadn't fired in forever, it just randomly started working again for 5 puffs or so, only to crap out again.

I remember when it was new there was like a thick, white grease on the part of the switch that contacts the body, and my current conclusion (pun intended) is that I need to re-grease the switch. I'm curious if anyone has experience with these two products:

MG Chemicals 846 Carbon Conductive Grease
Noalox® Anti-oxidant Compound

In terms of which would have longer staying power, be less messy, slide better, and provide better conduction. I know the hardware store has the Noalox.

I doubt that your salvation is in the grease.
Did to do a switch test, that I described above?

 

[DeadbeatJeff]

Yes I did the test, with a nail, and if fired right up.

It has to be the grease. Here is the unit broken down.

I really can't see how anything could be going wrong...

But if you look at the switch shaft, it has like a strange coating on it, not sure what, bu I do know that it had some sort of highly viscous grease on it when new.

Maybe the current is supposed to pass through the spring and not the shaft, but I replaced the spring with no luck... and the original spring seems fine.

Sent from the Northwest Corner, CM

 

[Kemosabe]

ive used noalox to great success. improves conductivity and stays put. you dont need to re-apply often. i dont think it creates conductivity, but it certainly improves it. i hope you find your solution, whatever it may be.