I think I had my first true dry hit?

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BreilaRose

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Since I've been vaping, I've had many occasions where I pressed the button, inhaled, and...nothing happened. No hit, no vapor, nothing. Usually this has happened when I've been chain vaping and after a minute or so, I get a good hit again. THAT'S what I've been calling dry hits.

Last night before I put in a new coil, I took a deep lung draw and OMG, my throat was on fire. It felt like I had inhaled fire, and it tasted nasty as nasty can me. Is that what a dry hit is? If so, I'd like to avoid those in the future thanks!
 

Sir2fyablyNutz

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Since I've been vaping, I've had many occasions where I pressed the button, inhaled, and...nothing happened. No hit, no vapor, nothing. Usually this has happened when I've been chain vaping and after a minute or so, I get a good hit again. THAT'S what I've been calling dry hits.

Last night before I put in a new coil, I took a deep lung draw and OMG, my throat was on fire. It felt like I had inhaled fire, and it tasted nasty as nasty can me. Is that what a dry hit is? If so, I'd like to avoid those in the future thanks!
They are horrible for sure. I've had my share. The vape industry evolved into "temperature control" in mods as a way to limit or stop dry hits. What happens is the mod reads the temp of the coil and when it gets a high temp (like in a dry hit) it shuts off. All the large mod makers are making temperature control mods now. Since you're building your own coils, all you would have to do is buy a specific wire for a temp control mod and you can use temp control in the Subtank. Nickel, Titanium, and Stainless Steel are the wires you would use instead of Kanthal. But.... there is one maker who is trying to perfect a mod that reads Kanthal in temperature control. :)
 

dcfluegel

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Since I've been vaping, I've had many occasions where I pressed the button, inhaled, and...nothing happened. No hit, no vapor, nothing. Usually this has happened when I've been chain vaping and after a minute or so, I get a good hit again. THAT'S what I've been calling dry hits.

Last night before I put in a new coil, I took a deep lung draw and OMG, my throat was on fire. It felt like I had inhaled fire, and it tasted nasty as nasty can me. Is that what a dry hit is? If so, I'd like to avoid those in the future thanks!
that is an accurate description, lol :)
 

BreilaRose

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Aug 22, 2015
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They are horrible for sure. I've had my share. The vape industry evolved into "temperature control" in mods as a way to limit or stop dry hits. What happens is the mod reads the temp of the coil and when it gets a high temp (like in a dry hit) it shuts off. All the large mod makers are making temperature control mods now. Since you're building your own coils, all you would have to do is buy a specific wire for a temp control mod and you can use temp control in the Subtank. Nickel, Titanium, and Stainless Steel are the wires you would use instead of Kanthal. But.... there is one maker who is trying to perfect a mod that reads Kanthal in temperature control. :)

Thanks! No TC in the Subtank Mini, AFAIK?
 

Sir2fyablyNutz

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Thanks! No TC in the Subtank Mini, AFAIK?

They do make Temp Control Coils for the Subtank (.15 nickel I believe), you just need to buy a temp control mod to use them.

Since you are building your own coils you could simply and cheaply make your own. (all you would need is the wire, after you get a TC mod) :)

EDIT : You should watch the video in the first post in this thread :https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/easy-way-to-make-perfect-coil.703658/#post-16604201
 

BreilaRose

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They do make Temp Control Coils for the Subtank (.15 nickel I believe), you just need to buy a temp control mod to use them.

Since you are building your own coils you could simply and cheaply make your own. (all you would need is the wire, after you get a TC mod) :)

So...it is my understanding that the Kbox Mini (my mod, I bought the Subox kit) only goes down to .3 ohm and has no TC. I'm confused.

If I hear you right, I could buy a TC mod that would go down to .15 ohm (not that I want to, I'm mid-range right now) and use the Subtank Mini on that, but no TC on the mod that came with the kit, yes?
 

Sir2fyablyNutz

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So...it is my understanding that the Kbox Mini (my mod, I bought the Subox kit) only goes down to .3 ohm and has no TC. I'm confused.

If I hear you right, I could buy a TC mod that would go down to .15 ohm (not that I want to, I'm mid-range right now) and use the Subtank Mini on that, but no TC on the mod that came with the kit, yes?

Your subbox does NOT have temp control. You would have to buy a mod that has the Temp Control feature. BUT... you wouldn't need to BUY the coils, you can make them on the rba deck. :) You just have to have wire that is compatable with temp control mods, titanium, stainless and nickel. I just ordered titanium for my subtanks to coil and make them all tc when my mod gets here. I won't be building down to .15, I'll be building to .5 . :) You could build them to 2.0 ohms if you wanted .
 

edyle

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So...it is my understanding that the Kbox Mini (my mod, I bought the Subox kit) only goes down to .3 ohm and has no TC. I'm confused.

If I hear you right, I could buy a TC mod that would go down to .15 ohm (not that I want to, I'm mid-range right now) and use the Subtank Mini on that, but no TC on the mod that came with the kit, yes?

the first generation tc mods use nickel coils; nickel is not resistance wire, so technically the tc mods go down to lower ohms (and lower voltage) but only for the nickel coils.
 

Pushbutton

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Yep that sounds like a dry hit.
If you are new to rebuilding, it could easily have been a wicking issue. Getting your cotton too tight will cut off the juice flow. You have to keep in mind that the cotton will swell up a bit once it holds your juice. Different types of cotton or wicking materials need to be packed slightly differently. Some swell or more, others less. Too little cotton is not good either.

Another thing to consider is the length of your typical draw vs coil diameter. A larger diameter will hold more juice right under the coil and heat slightly slower 2.5 or 3mm are the most common. A larger diameter gives you a larger buffer of liquid before your wicking needs to start having to keep up with reflow.

Temperature control can be useful, however, the wires and builds used are not without their own little intricacies. Some swear by it, others feel they have no use for it or don't find it overly satisfying.

I'd recommend getting a little more experience with rebuilding before spending money on a new device.
 
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BreilaRose

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Aug 22, 2015
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Yep that sounds like a dry hit.
If you are new to rebuilding, it could easily have been a wicking issue. Getting your cotton too tight will cut off the juice flow. You have to keep in mind that the cotton will swell up a bit once it holds your juice. Different types of cotton or wicking materials need to be packed slightly differently. Some swell or more, others less. Too little cotton is not good either.

Another thing to consider is the length of your typical draw vs coil diameter. A larger diameter will hold more juice right under the coil and heat slightly slower 2.5 or 3mm are the most common. A larger diameter gives you a larger buffer of liquid before your wicking needs to start having to keep up with reflow.

Temperature control can be useful, however, the wires and builds used are not without their own little intricacies. Some swear by it, others feel they have no use for it or don't find it overly satisfying.

I'd recommend getting a little more experience with rebuilding before spending money on a new device.

This wasn't the coil I built, it was the premade one that came on on the RBA.

I have no intentions of getting a new device, I'm happy with the Subox so far.
 
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