Iclear 30 dual coil rebuilds yet? anyone?

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dezyner

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Been trying to rebuild the Iclear 30 heads yesterday and this morning. I was bored. Kanger protanks and vivi novas, no problem, pretty easy. I would like to use my hemp wicks in the iclear 30, so I kinda have an idea that I may have to settle for just using a single coil and setting up that way. there is just so much space between the coils and the connector pin. almost looks like they wanted it as hard as possible to rebuild, so you keep coming back for replacement heads. anybody at all had any luck at all on these? suggestions welcome. as always, thanks in advance. cheers.
 

boshans

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I am waiting for some wire so I can do mine. I just got mine yesterday, and to be honest I don't really like it, I also got 2 iClear 16's with the 30, and I like those better to be honest. I took the 30 apart and the coils in it look pretty badly done, the top coil the wrap is REALLLLY close together, the individual wires are like touching each other., like REALLY close together, and completely off to one side of the tube, so much so the coil itself might actually be touching the tube, well maybe not touching but if I moved it a mm it would be, I tried moving it away but it just goes back to where it was. So yeah I definitely want to recoil it. It does look like it would be a pain in the ... though, I tried looking to see where the top coil's pos and neg leads go, but I can't tell at all.
 

dezyner

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the leads have a sheath on them, probably why it looks like it touches but hasn't shorted out. I think they used resistance wire for the coils and non resistance for the leads. Been wanting to put bamboo or hemp wicks in one. I didn't like them at first either, and it took a few tanks to figure out the tweaks I like and get used to it. I like the vape much better if the wicks have time to saturate, I get better flavor and vapor production if I let it sit overnight with a fresh coil/wicks. I want to figure out the coils, and it is a PITA. Really looks like they built it to make it hard to recoil. Take that DIYers, we engineered it that way. good luck, let me know if you get one rebuilt. I'm burned out on it for now. Probably going to try a single coil rebuild for it, and even that is a PITA because of the layout of this. Long way to the base, and it's recessed where the head screws on to the base. telling yah, they did it this way just to screw with rebuilding it. lol
 
I have been fighting with these for quite some time, and they are definitely a PITA. I have learned quite a bit, but still have not had a successful build. They are definitely nr-r-nr, and the transitions are actually RIGHT at the wicks. The nr 'risers' are not only stiffer, but are also shielded with PTFE (teflon) tubing as an insulator. I have several of these heads, and love the way they vase on a VV/VW device, but am trying to build them to a lower resistance, for use on mechs, without needing a Kick (or equivalent device). I have found sources for the PTFE tubing, but have not yet ordered it. My biggest problem is how to join the nr and r wire precisely and in a manner to permit actually wrapping the joints into the ends of the coils.

I concur, regarding these being designed specifically to discourage rebuilding, but that means mine will be finding their way to the back-up 'junk' box...at least until I find a practical means of rebuilding them, or until Innokin releases and widely distributes a lower resistance version, which performs better on mechs. (1.8 Ohms in these is still a bit too high for a 'straight' mech.)

Hence, Inn oven's ploy to drive revenue through the sale of replacement heads, has completely backfired, in the case of this previously impressed and outspoken customer.

For the record, I have numerous successful rebuilds of Vision's dual coil Vivian Nova tanks...so the problem REALLY Is the deliberate design of these.
 
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