If an atomizer " shorts" would it be worse on a .......

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anavidfan

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Ive been using rebuildable atomizers for a while now, but the worries of having a short still worries me. I have a atty, carto multimeter to make sure the device is working. I used to always put my new builds on an ego type of battery just to be sure. Lately, I dont test it out on the ego battery. I make sure it has an ohm reading so I assume no shorts.

So I still worry, if I were to get an electrical short on my atomizer which would it be less bad for it to happen, a mechanical PV or a PV like a Saber Touch? I used to think the saber touch was mechanical, but now Im not sure. If a mechanical mod makes contact to the battery via contacts not wires, if it should short, would it only damage the battery? If a PV has electronics such as some sort of board, Im assuming that would fry.

Would one of those 2 cents for safety devices save a PV with electronics from a short in an atty? or just from a faulty battery. Thank you for any opinions.
 

KeithB

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Many electronic mods have protection built in to handle a short; I don't know if the SabreTouch does or not.

Some mechanical mods have hot springs, which are supposed to collapse in the event of a short but many do not.

Those safety devices you mentioned should work with a shorted atty. The cheaper ones would need to be replaced; I believe some of the more expensive ones will reset themselves. You'd want to compare your current load against what they are set to trip at, I think it's 7.5A on some of them but I'm not positive.

I'd take the risk of fried electronics (lost $) over the risks of a battery failure (fire, toxic gasses, explosion) any day.

A well designed, well built mod should be able to handle a short safely but, sadly, not all mods fall into this category.
 

markfm

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In an unregulated PV I use protected ICR batteries, which have built-in protection that will trip on an over-current (e.g., a short). If I wanted to use unprotected IMR batteries in a mod without protection, I would definitely add one of the inline fuse/circuit breaker widgets.

If a PV is unregulated, but has a hot spring, the spring acts as the equivalent to one of those inline widgets, though it would be good to have a replacement spring on hand, else to add the separate inline fuse/circuit breaker (and the inline added part should have a trip point lower than where the hot spring goes bye-bye).

In a regulated PV, one with some electronics, you need to check with the particular vendor to see if they have short circuit protection, determine if they meet your comfort level. The PV I use have both current limiting in the regulator as well an inline diode that will blow out if the current limiting logic fails; this provides two tripping mechanisms, the first acts like a resetting circuit breaker, the diode acts like a fuse, blowing at a higher current than the circuit breaker.
 

Zaratoughda

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I was dry burning a 1.8 ohm cisco atty recently using an ego, and all of a sudden the ego started blinking so I stopped and put the atty on my voltmeter and... it was reading 0.6 ohms.

So, the atty shorted out and is in the dead pile now.

But, the ego battery is still going strong.

I should say here that it is one of the newer egos... ego-c or ego-t. Some of the older ego batteries might not fair so well with something like this.
 
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