Ignorance is bliss

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edyle

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You can use a kayfun on the VTR if you don't mind taking some power tools to the thing. There's a few vids on youtube of people having removed the ring and using both together.

I just can't bring myself to do it to my own precious VTR though.

I don't think I could bring myself to do something like that until it was 3 to 5 years old to begin with.
Not soon after spending on it.
 

joesquid

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I couldn't really visualize it either, even though I had used cartos before, until I had a cheapie carto tank that didn't have the locking ring at the bottom to keep the carto *in* the tank. See, it connects to the battery via the 510 connection at the bottom of the carto; the carto tank is just a shell that rides along surrounding the carto with juice. The carto slides into the bottom ring of the tank; you prime the carto itself with about .8ml of e-juice, then, before you slide the carto all the way to the top, you fill the tank; there's a good seal between the carto and tank at the bottom, because of the o-rings, so you don't have to worry about it just running out. when the tank is about 3/4 full, you slide the carto fully upward, till it engages the top ring; put in a drip tip, screw it into a battery/mod, and you're off to the races.

The problem is that if the carto is not "locked" in place, by an extra ring at the bottom, when you go to remove the cartotank from the battery, it's entirely possible to pull the tank upward, before the 510 connector is fully un-screwed; if you're not very careful, it's very easy at that point to completely waste whatever remains in the tank, and waste it all over the battery/mod. With the locking ring, it's threaded onto the bottom ring of the tank, which keeps the carto engaged in the tank; you can't get the carto out until you remove the locking ring.

Does that make it a bit clearer? As I said, I couldn't really visualize it either -- until I wasted half a tank of juice all over one of my vv3s. I was not a happy camper, and that cheapie tank has been relegated to the catch-all in my e-juice drawer, probably to never be used again.

Andria


I got it now but I feel bad you had to type so much to get it through my thick head!

By the way, how is it you have 2495 more posts than me but only one more day off analogs????????:laugh:
 

AndriaD

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No.
Pay no attention to those people who say blah blah blah and don't mention that they are using 28 gauge wire etc.

Normal gauge is 30 and 32 gauge; 28 is easier to work with and often used on proper rebuildables with a 1 inch wide deck of space to work with, not a 5mm confined space of a protank coil where even though you think you got it to fit, when you put the spire on, the spire shorts out on the coil.

Very, very true. I was doing 2.5Ω coils for my T3S/protanks, using 32ga wire, first on a 5/64 drillbit because that's the biggest you can actually fit into the head slots on those, but then later I used a 7/64 drill bit, easier to get the wick into; the trick is to put the wick in as soon as you slide off the drill bit, and that way you get the proper height in the head. On the 5.64 bit, it's 7 wraps; on the 7/64 bit, it's 5 wraps. Either fits, but easier to thread the wick with fewer wraps.

I tried regular silica first, but you have to use a good bit if your juice is thin -- mine is. then I tried cotton for a while, but it burns really fast in those tiny heads with such concentrated heat in such a small space. Then I tried a combo of 2mm ekowool in the coil (the 7/64 coils) with 1.5mm regular silica as a flavor wick, and that worked pretty well. It sure improved the T3S tanks, and the protanks too (a mini PT II, and a Hypertank II). It also frees you from worry about maybe not having a working coil, when you know you can create your own.

Andria
 

joesquid

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Pretty sure he meant it's too long, especially if you're not using the ego threading.

Shoulda made the 510 connection flush with the top of the unit.

Exactly. That way the larger toppers would sit flush and the top ring. It would be stronger and lookk much better.
 
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