I forgot another thing, yes, the tube warms up too.... So does the tugboat. Not as hot as the button. But yea, the whole thing is warm, I'm worried about the button getting hot though. I need to know how to fix this.
IHybrid Trinity Mechanical Mod- by Faceless
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I forgot another thing, yes, the tube warms up too.... So does the tugboat. Not as hot as the button. But yea, the whole thing is warm, I'm worried about the button getting hot though. I need to know how to fix this.
Q. What type of warranty does iHybridMods offer?
A. One Year, if the mod stops performing or has an error, it will be replaced for free. Dropping the unit is not covered by warranty, nor is the glass tank/orings, cross threading, or scratches, iHybrid Mods has final determination . Any manufacturing flaw must be presented within 72 hours of receiving the unit and returned unused for full refund or exchange if available. Manufacturing warranty is not covered for units bought second hand.
Removing the top post of the atty voids warranty. Please do not take the iHybrid apart.
Terms-of-Service
the switch should not be getting hot, they should fix this for you. or at least send you replacement parts for free.
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That, my friend, is a scary couple of phrases. Please get an ohmmeter, and switch to prebuilt heads until you get it in!
The shop has ohm meters, but I don't know if I wanna buy one? It's a waste if money. When he will do it for free every time
Well I don't wanna wait for another mod, the mail man took his signature when the mods came in, and he have him a package of juice and booked it out the door, he was 1.) two weeks late, 2.) tried to steal 3k worth of mods 3.) a jerk
Ok. 24 gauge wire is very fat for coils (low-resistance). 6 turns (you didn't say the diameter) is a small-ish coil. With 2 of them, you might be looking at something like 0.2 ohms? If the guy at the vape store is winding these for you, he ought to tell you what the resistance is. And just because he works there and can wind a coil doesn't mean he knows how to do so safely.
The fact that the whole mod is heating up indicates that you're drawing a LOT of current. The fact that the battery isn't hot is a sign that at least you probably have a good one. When you draw a lot of current, any part of the circuit that has even a little resistance will start to heat up. You might be drawing 20 amps off the battery, and just because the mod is made of metal, doesn't mean it can handle that much current.
Your head is too low a resistance to use safely with that mod. Period. Sorry.
do you take the whole device back to the shop so they can rebuild the wicks and coils on the tugboat?
if your building your own coils you need an ohm meter. a cheap one is like $10. you need to be able to check the drippers resistance after you build it so you know how much power your drawing from the battery. if you draw to much power from the battery it could explode or "vent". you should aslo use the meter to check for shorts / loose connections both could cause a battery to vent.
Ok, I'll get an ohm meter. But I'm wondering if it could possibly be the insulator? Because I had a smokey mountain vanilla mod and it was amazing! But I was just usin it for a couple weeks while I waited for mine to come in.. I really want to just get a good mod, but I already spent 183$ on this one, and I traded my nimbus for the tugboat, and paid 50$ instead of 100$ for the boat. So, any suggestions? I already don't like this mod, and they better give me my money back or work a deal. I was looking at the mutant mod, but it's out of stock until June.
all the parts of a circuit have resistance, (unless your talking about a "super conductor" and we are not talking about that here)
the acceptable maximum amount of resistance across any contact, switch, splice or solder point is .1 ohms.
that brass screw head is a contact point connected to the switch and that black insulator missing tells me that it might be arcing from that brass screw head to the body of the mod.
Those are kinda big words for me... Haha, I don't understand.. R u saying that the battery is titling and touching the missing spot in the tube? Where that arrow was pointing? and then it's making direct contact with the metal and it's heating the button?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2LpCdhuOyQ
this is an electrical arc. this might be occurring on a much smaller scale in your mod between that post the brass screw goes into and the body of the mod. that is why that black insulator is there. electricity will always take the path of least resistance. sometimes that path is through the air... that picture you put up is that brass screw on the bottom or the top of the mod?
and the negative end of the battery (the - ) goes towards that brass screw?
your going to need to get it repaired, the switch should not get not like that a bit warm maybe after a long period of use but not hot. if the shop you got it from wont send it back, then you will need to contact the company. i looked at the replacement parts on hybrids website i don't see that black insulator ring for sale.
sorry about your luck
my guess is that its arcing inside were the insulator is missing..
Actually if I hold the button down correctly perfectly flat when I rip on it, it gets warm but not hot. If I just grab it and push it in without paying attention, then it gets hot. So it's an issue, but not if I hold the button correctly.
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