IJOY EXO SERIES TANKS (EXO S, EXO X, EXO XL, EXO RTA)

[TrollDragon]

I looked up the supreme but it says it's an rdta. What's the difference?

They are all classified as RDTAs since they feed juice through holes in the bottom of the deck as opposed to the side of the deck like the EXO and AMMIT. The Supreme has a Velocity style deck that you basically wick like a dripper, just enough to rest on the bottom of the deck covering the juice holes on each side.

Great wicking video.

 

[TrollDragon]

Well I finally got around to trying out the dual coil deck on the EXO RTA. I put in a dual NiFe70 build of 8/7 wraps 24g on 3.7mm. Should come out to 0.05Ω but it is jumping around from 0.09Ω to 0.14Ω. It could be a bad coil connection or cut leg too, I'll have to break it down later and see if is the base or coils.

The flavor is definitely not as good as the single coil deck or even the Crius Plus in dual coil mode.

 

[Tekaluku]

Well I finally got around to trying out the dual coil deck on the EXO RTA. I put in a dual NiFe70 build of 8/7 wraps 24g on 3.7mm. Should come out to 0.05Ω but it is jumping around from 0.09Ω to 0.14Ω. It could be a bad coil connection or cut leg too, I'll have to break it down later and see if is the base or coils.

The flavor is definitely not as good as the single coil deck or even the Crius Plus in dual coil mode.

I do love to see builds on dual coil decks....have tried it in the past....I prefer single coil builds ....esp after the exo died on me

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[Gallant]

The flavor is definitely not as good as the single coil deck

I agree the EXO shines in single

 

[Herrick]

I actually set my baseline differently. Not that your way is incorrect or anything.
I would build/wick my coil, DNA device set to my profile (SS316L in my case), fire the atomizer until it hits temp control, quickly remove the atomizer from the mod and reattach it, press the fire button, press "up" for new coil.
Now I know for a fact that the coil reading is wrong and way to high in resistance. I leave the setup alone for 5-10mins. This forces the DNA to re calibrate base line cold ohms.

The reason I do this is because sometimes when you thread down a tank to a mod, some mods tend to grab the first initial coil resistance reading. In some case the first initial coil resistance reading is when the tank is half threaded down and the contacts are not 100%.
This may have a variance in resistance of +/- 0.005ohms. This may not seem like a lot but in temp control and depending on how high\low your resistance is, it could be a deal breaker.

Hi BlackCRX. I used your method and now I'm getting a good vape using the default SS316 profile. The only thing I didn't do was hold the fire button down until the Temperature Protection came up...because it didn't come up. This is weird. Temperature Protection usually comes up very quickly. I hope I won't have to keep doing this every time I vape.

 

[hittman]

I had horrible leaking problems with the dual coil setup on the exo. No problems at all with the single deck.

 

[BlackCRX]

Hi BlackCRX. I used your method and now I'm getting a good vape using the default SS316 profile. The only thing I didn't do was hold the fire button down until the Temperature Protection came up...because it didn't come up. This is weird. Temperature Protection usually comes up very quickly. I hope I won't have to keep doing this every time I vape.

You never got the temp protection on the initial firing?
What type of coil, resistance, wattage?
Also did you notice the initial resistance before the mod corrected itself?

My guess is that you never saw the temp protection on initial firing was because you're bade resistance was too.

An example of how important correct bade resistance is as I mentioned before.
I have a fused Clapton coil at 0.230ohm cold base.
If the mod read that incorrectly as 0.235ohm cold base and went to fire it at 220c..... In reality it is 250C because the cold base ohm was off by 0.005ohm

You could imagine the vape difference between 30C would be pretty harsh/cold.

 

[Herrick]

You never got the temp protection on the initial firing?
What type of coil, resistance, wattage?
Also did you notice the initial resistance before the mod corrected itself?

My guess is that you never saw the temp protection on initial firing was because you're bade resistance was too.

An example of how important correct bade resistance is as I mentioned before.
I have a fused Clapton coil at 0.230ohm cold base.
If the mod read that incorrectly as 0.235ohm cold base and went to fire it at 220c..... In reality it is 250C because the cold base ohm was off by 0.005ohm

You could imagine the vape difference between 30C would be pretty harsh/cold.

I don't remember the initial resistance before so I did the procedure again tonight.

I have a 26 gauge SS316L coil with an inner diameter of 3mm. I just checked the resistance (coil wasn't hot or anything) with my ohm meter and it came up as .54. I put the tank (Engine Nano) on my mod and fired it and got the Temperature Protection message then took it off and put it back on. Pressed the fire button and I got the new coil message showing the "new" coil. Pushed up for yes and it came up at .55 ohms.

It's vaping really well now using the default SS316 profile.

 

[BlackCRX]

I don't remember the initial resistance before so I did the procedure again tonight.

I have a 26 gauge SS316L coil with an inner diameter of 3mm. I just checked the resistance (coil wasn't hot or anything) with my ohm meter and it came up as .54. I put the tank (Engine Nano) on my mod and fired it and got the Temperature Protection message then took it off and put it back on. Pressed the fire button and I got the new coil message showing the "new" coil. Pushed up for yes and it came up at .55 ohms.

It's vaping really well now using the default SS316 profile.

Sounds like you got it working. Usually with temp control, the biggest challenge is getting a good cold base ohms... That and a good chip that can properly scale and refine wattage to maintain temp.

 

[Herrick]

Sounds like you got it working. Usually with temp control, the biggest challenge is getting a good cold base ohms... That and a good chip that can properly scale and refine wattage to maintain temp.

The resistance just dropped to .52 and the flavor and vapor have weakened once again.

Edit: When the option to select new or or old coil comes up, the new coil is read at .56 ohms and the old at .52 ohms. Seems like after selecting new coil the mod reverts to the old coil reading after a while. Right now this is happening on my Engine Nano but the same thing happened when using the EXO RTA.

 

[benley73]

Yes plz single coil deck for Supreme 25mm , v1 V 2 ,

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

 

[BlackCRX]

The resistance just dropped to .52 and the flavor and vapor have weakened once again.

Edit: When the option to select new or or old coil comes up, the new coil is read at .56 ohms and the old at .52 ohms. Seems like after selecting new coil the mod reverts to the old coil reading after a while. Right now this is happening on my Engine Nano but the same thing happened when using the EXO RTA.

Wait, this is the whole point of this exercise, to have the mod find the correct base ohms.
What mod are you running? Coil specs? Wire gauge? ID? etc.. Pics of wicking?
Wicking makes a big difference also when it comes to temp control.
If you have too much or too little cotton it will throw off the temp control.

Too little cotton means less contact surface between cotton and coil. This will cause the coil to heat up fast but produce no vapor.
Too much cotton and it will not wick efficiently because it is choked and same thing, coil will heat up but won't produce a vapor.

Also have you tried cleaning the 510 threads on both the mod and tanks?

 

[TrollDragon]

Yes plz single coil deck for Supreme 25mm , v1 V 2 ,

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

And the wait begins...

 

[Herrick]

Wait, this is the whole point of this exercise, to have the mod find the correct base ohms.
What mod are you running? Coil specs? Wire gauge? ID? etc.. Pics of wicking?
Wicking makes a big difference also when it comes to temp control.
If you have too much or too little cotton it will throw off the temp control.

Too little cotton means less contact surface between cotton and coil. This will cause the coil to heat up fast but produce no vapor.
Too much cotton and it will not wick efficiently because it is choked and same thing, coil will heat up but won't produce a vapor.

Also have you tried cleaning the 510 threads on both the mod and tanks?

I'm using a Therion 166, a 26 gauge SS316L coil with an inner diameter of 3mm that comes out at .54 ohms on my ohm reader and my other mod which is an Eleaf iStick 80. I'm using rayon with this tank. I've cleaned the threads and the connection.

Temperature Control works fine on the Eleaf iStick 80.

Edit: Thanks for the help BlackCRX. I'm going to take my problem to the Therion 166 thread. I don't want to keep going off topic here.

 

[Herrick]

Hmm...I rewicked the EXO RTA (didn't think I'd do that again) with Cotton Bacon. No flooding after one half fill up and one full fill up and no weak vapor in TC. I screwed the top cap on but this time I didn't even tighten it. Just screwed it on lightly until it wouldn't turn any further. Hopefully that'll prevent the top cap from unscrewing the 6ml extender. Famous last words of Herrick: it's vaping very nicely.

 

[hittman]

Good luck!

 

[BlackCRX]

Hmm...I rewicked the EXO RTA (didn't think I'd do that again) with Cotton Bacon. No flooding after one half fill up and one full fill up and no weak vapor in TC. I screwed the top cap on but this time I didn't even tighten it. Just screwed it on lightly until it wouldn't turn any further. Hopefully that'll prevent the top cap from unscrewing the 6ml extender. Famous last words of Herrick: it's vaping very nicely.

Was thus with the therion?

 

[Herrick]

Was thus with the therion?

Yeah I'm using the Therion but the ohm reading went from .35 to .34 and the weak flavor & vapor syndrome in TC mode happened again so I've been using it in wattage mode.

 

[Herrick]

Question. I cannot remove the tank from the base by hand. It just spins without loosening. This has not happened before. Is it a normal function of this RTA to need pliers to unscrew the 6ml extender in order to remove tank? I just wanted to take a look at my wick to see how it's holding up.

No flooding or leaking all day.

 

[TrollDragon]

Question. I cannot remove the tank from the base by hand. It just spins without loosening. This has not happened before. Is it a normal function of this RTA to need pliers to unscrew the 6ml extender in order to remove tank? I just wanted to take a look at my wick to see how it's holding up.

No flooding or leaking all day.

Hold the JFC ring and unscrew the tank. If the tank comes apart instead of unscrewing off the base, you need to tighten up the top and bottom chimney sections.

The tank only needs to be screwed down finger tight when you put it back on the base.