• Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers

    Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?

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loft

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Only thing I know of (In general, not specific to any one vendor ego-t system) is that if you fill the tank full, it doesn't wick well. But I haven't used one yet. With all the money I've put into mods lately, I'm not buying any more equipment lol...

Edit: But what I do know about IKV's ego-t... (yes, it's coming) is that it's supposed to be 3.7v with PWM and an LCD display/read out of puffs remaining/battery level. It's not on the site as it's still in testing I believe. Making sure the LCD battery monitor is accurate.
 
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loft

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Thanks loft. Sounds cool. Will it have IKV's own atty and tanks? That would be great! Sounds like it would be a nice surprise for my wife. Hope they're coming soon.

What is PWM?

I haven't spoken to Isaac about them in a couple of days - but we shall see. As far as the atties/tanks, I have no idea. I haven't used one yet.
 

Switched

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End user (you, me, Steve [who? lol]) won't notice a difference. It'll still act like ON or OFF when used. :)

Haha! Not quite true my good friend. PWM ensures the same hit consistently throughout the life of the battery charge until depletion. Believe it or not my eGos provide a better vape than my AW 18650 eGo. OTOH my VV eGo with switching regulator will nock your socks off set @ 3.7V let alone 4.2V

PWM also IMHO makes atties last longer :) which of course is always a +
 

loft

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Haha! Not quite true my good friend. PWM ensures the same hit consistently throughout the life of the battery charge until depletion. Believe it or not my eGos provide a better vape than my AW 18650 eGo. OTOH my VV eGo with switching regulator will nock your socks off set @ 3.7V let alone 4.2V

PWM also IMHO makes atties last longer :) which of course is always a +

Oh I know, I just didn't have the chance to really delve into a full explanation. Had to send my GLV3 back to Jay so needed to rush to the post office. Thanks for elaborating since I'm seemingly lazy on my days off... lol :(
 

Switched

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Oh I know, I just didn't have the chance to really delve into a full explanation. Had to send my GLV3 back to Jay so needed to rush to the post office. Thanks for elaborating since I'm seemingly lazy on my days off... lol :(

All's cool :) I heard of your GLV3 woes from Isaac man that sucks big buffalo you know what. Hope you can get it rectified.

Wrt PWM it is sort of my baby. Hard convincing folks that 3.4 vapes better than 3.7V unmodulated.
 

Switched

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There you go again Switched! Gotta throw in a different techie word in there don't ya? :)

Ok.. So, unregulated = No PWM = unmodulated. Yes?

Too !@$ many words that mean the same think in the vaping world.

Just trying to learn bud.

Ahhh, terribly sorry. You are going to get more confused with this one unfortunately and can't help that, so sorry in advance.

We were talking about PWM which = Pulse Width Modulation which is what is known as a "switching" regulator. Then you have straight regulation = no modulation, but nonetheless regulated e.g a straight 5V device.

In a regulated device the output of the device will be set point e.g 5V - provided the voltage of the power pack is above set point (or 5V) 5V will be delivered to the atty. Once the available power is insufficient to operate the regulator, the output = 0. Then of course we need to charge the batteries.

On a PWM device or "switching" (read non-linear regulator) the voltage transmitted to the atty is conforming with the duty and off duty cycles of current delivery or modulation. In the case of the eGo between 3.0 and 3.7V - the 3.7V being the duty cycle whilst the 3.0 = the non active cycle. This in turn gives an average voltage of 3.3-3.4V. It doesn't stop there however. Because the width (time off duty) at 3.0V is longer than the time spent at duty cycle (3.7V) the JoyE products put out 3.2V. By playing with the pulses (modulation) you can vary the output. For example and pure speculation here - if you were to switch the duty and off duty cycles of the eGo battery between each other, theoretically the voltage output would be 3.5V.

I hope I didn't loose you here as it was not my intent. If I really wanted to confuse you I would have said that JoyE has changed their algorithms in their battery chips to provide greater efficiency :)

This is a long read but a good one nonetheless and it is the seed of all this mumbo jumbo we see on the forum.

Battery Voltages -- Surprise!
 

pizza2me

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Yup! Ya lost me. :) I'll give it a read later to see if it helps. Thought I had it until the duty/off duty part. First I thought that was in-use/not in-use. But I don't think so.

I'll just buy what you's guys say is a good battery and just happily vape in electronic ignorance.

But... Am I understanding that the regulated is more consistant than a PWM? As in your examples, the regulated is always the same Vs, whereas the PWM is a range/average?
 

Switched

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Ahhhh Pizza my good man, I am afraid in order to help you so you can better understand I am going to send you off into the abyss :)

A long long time ago in a distant forest ... Nah! wrong story :lol:

A battery depletes under normal use, you will not get a constant vape off a battery as it starts to deplete. The freshly charged battery will give you X volts (load is dependent on atty). That X volts will remain constant for a little while but the voltage will drop as the battery depletes, until the cut off is reached in the case of protected batteries or vapour production as hit the wall on IMRs (whispy). As you gather experience using the various types of batteries this will become second nature as to when you need a fresh battery. That is no problem because it is better for the battery to recharge before it reaches its low voltage cutoff (protected) or threshold IMR.

Using a regulator or a regulated device e.g the provari, your voltage is constant as explained earlier, until insufficient voltage is available to reach the desired set point (set voltage).

Now I have eGos, I have a 3.7V eGo running and 18650 2600mAh battery and I have a VV eGo employing PWM. The best one is of course the VV eGo, second standard eGos and third the 18650. Although the 18650 its SLIGHTLY better than a std eGo, that fresh of the battery delivery pales in comparison with the consistent delivery of the eGo. This is where folks suffer from the placebo subjectivity that volts = performance, not quite true.

PWM pulses on and off 3.7 - 3.0 In doing so it not only adds longer battery life, it also assists in helping the atomiser by not overheating it, when not required. These pulses are rapid enough that the vaper does not sense this. It also stems back to the days were the ecigs were invented and developed for max EFFICIENCY. It is we as vapers (not knowing any better) demanded more power to include but not limited vaping at XHV 2 x 3.7V batteries stacked. Most vapers these days come to find (after initial withdrawals) that the sweet spot lies between 4.2 -4.5V or a wattage around 7-8 watts. The latter is a hot topic of discussion amongst Darwin users.

To answer your question <<Am I understanding that the regulated is more consistant than a PWM? As in your examples, the regulated is always the same Vs, whereas the PWM is a range/average? >>

The answer is no, with a caveat. "Regulated PWM" is the bees knees and hence what the Darwin and Provari use or my VV eGo. If I want 4.2V which it is set at, I get between 3.68-3.71V under load and it is the underload that is the important factor, not volts available. In the case of my VV eGo I vape at the "fresh" battery state until the batteries die. OTOH if I want to vape at 4.2V under load I set it up for 4.5V give or take. I don't always use my test harness to figure it out. My VV eGo cost me around $25 to build and performs just as well as the Provari & Darwin, albeit I will openly admit the Darwin would have an edge. I haven't acquired these devices nor do I intend to acquire an Eclipse as I don't have the need for the "fancy" features listed, my device performs just as well. One feature I would like which the Darwin has incorporated is the "set the watts setting" that's a unique feature that can be achieved trough calculations on any VV device but as easy by tweaking the setting on the wattage on the Darwin.

Allot of hype and myths circulate this forum. BTW the best 5V device out there is the GLV why because it uses a resistor vice a regulator which provides 4.93V under load, well at least mine does regardless of atty resistance.

Yup! sisfting through all the mumbo jumbo out there is frustrating. I hope I haven't lost you. Feel free to ask for any clarification :)
 

loft

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Ahhhh Pizza my good man, I am afraid in order to help you so you can better understand I am going to send you off into the abyss :)

A long long time ago in a distant forest ... Nah! wrong story :lol:

A battery depletes under normal use, you will not get a constant vape off a battery as it starts to deplete. The freshly charged battery will give you X volts (load is dependent on atty). That X volts will remain constant for a little while but the voltage will drop as the battery depletes, until the cut off is reached in the case of protected batteries or vapour production as hit the wall on IMRs (whispy). As you gather experience using the various types of batteries this will become second nature as to when you need a fresh battery. That is no problem because it is better for the battery to recharge before it reaches its low voltage cutoff (protected) or threshold IMR.

Using a regulator or a regulated device e.g the provari, your voltage is constant as explained earlier, until insufficient voltage is available to reach the desired set point (set voltage).

Now I have eGos, I have a 3.7V eGo running and 18650 2600mAh battery and I have a VV eGo employing PWM. The best one is of course the VV eGo, second standard eGos and third the 18650. Although the 18650 its SLIGHTLY better than a std eGo, that fresh of the battery delivery pales in comparison with the consistent delivery of the eGo. This is where folks suffer from the placebo subjectivity that volts = performance, not quite true.

PWM pulses on and off 3.7 - 3.0 In doing so it not only adds longer battery life, it also assists in helping the atomiser by not overheating it, when not required. These pulses are rapid enough that the vaper does not sense this. It also stems back to the days were the ecigs were invented and developed for max EFFICIENCY. It is we as vapers (not knowing any better) demanded more power to include but not limited vaping at XHV 2 x 3.7V batteries stacked. Most vapers these days come to find (after initial withdrawals) that the sweet spot lies between 4.2 -4.5V or a wattage around 7-8 watts. The latter is a hot topic of discussion amongst Darwin users.

To answer your question <<Am I understanding that the regulated is more consistant than a PWM? As in your examples, the regulated is always the same Vs, whereas the PWM is a range/average? >>

The answer is no, with a caveat. "Regulated PWM" is the bees knees and hence what the Darwin and Provari use or my VV eGo. If I want 4.2V which it is set at, I get between 3.68-3.71V under load and it is the underload that is the important factor, not volts available. In the case of my VV eGo I vape at the "fresh" battery state until the batteries die. OTOH if I want to vape at 4.2V under load I set it up for 4.5V give or take. I don't always use my test harness to figure it out. My VV eGo cost me around $25 to build and performs just as well as the Provari & Darwin, albeit I will openly admit the Darwin would have an edge. I haven't acquired these devices nor do I intend to acquire an Eclipse as I don't have the need for the "fancy" features listed, my device performs just as well. One feature I would like which the Darwin has incorporated is the "set the watts setting" that's a unique feature that can be achieved trough calculations on any VV device but as easy by tweaking the setting on the wattage on the Darwin.

Allot of hype and myths circulate this forum. BTW the best 5V device out there is the GLV why because it uses a resistor vice a regulator which provides 4.93V under load, well at least mine does regardless of atty resistance.

Yup! sisfting through all the mumbo jumbo out there is frustrating. I hope I haven't lost you. Feel free to ask for any clarification :)
While I understand all of this without question, I think you just sent pizza into the oven... lol. The part about the GLV is very correct - which is why I was so blah, for lack of better term, in seeing how it was when it arrived. Great explanation though :)
 

5cardstud

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Then of course there is the boost regulated PVs too.
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Great post Switched. Very informative as usual.
 
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