I'm a little concerned about safety...

[hjalte81]

Hi everyone...

I'm currently vaping on a provari with a DiD on top... But I want to get a mechanical mod.

I was thinking about getting a telescope mod (smoktech maybe).

I'm a little concerned about exploding batteries and stuff like that. When I build my own coils, I do get shorts sometimes and I have no idea how a mechanical mod will react to that.

My provari simply gives me an error and stop firing.

On the othe hand I know that a lot of vapers use ONLY mechanical mods with genesis tyle atomizers, so I'm a little confused :/

Can you guys please help me?

 

[scalewiz]

Good insurance policies are available at the following rates:

1. Use protected batteries. In the event of a short they should cut off current.
2. Use a fuse. They make something called a two cent fuse. It is a fuse on a small circuit board that goes in your battery compartment.
3. Invest in a multimeter and check for shorts and proper resistance BEFORE screwing the device onto your battery.

 

[hjalte81]

Good insurance policies are available at the following rates:

1. Use protected batteries. In the event of a short they should cut off current.
2. Use a fuse. They make something called a two cent fuse. It is a fuse on a small circuit board that goes in your battery compartment.
3. Invest in a multimeter and check for shorts and proper resistance BEFORE screwing the device onto your battery.

Thanks...
There are soooo many opinion on which batteries are best to use... I'm using imr's...?

I heard about the fuse and will probably invest in a couple, but what im more interested in, is to hear from those who are already using Genesis atomizers and what they do...

Do a Genesis with hot spots cause hard shorts (that's what I should be concerned about as far as I understand)

Sendt fra min GT-I9300 med Tapatalk2

 

[spraintz]

I used AW IMR in my Provari and my mechanical Puresmoker Legacy mini (weather I'm using the Kick or not)

I would get a a multimeter anyways just cause they are super handy. Take a look at the Legacy for a mechanical, I know it's not a telescoping mod but they do have extension caps for different batteries. They were one of the first with a bottom button mode and it is built very well. These things are near bullet proof, definitely worth the price difference over the Smoktech

 

[Karla Lyle]

I use Genesis' on mechanical and VV mods. I usually check the resistance on my Provari or with a multimeter before attatching to my mech mod. A hot spot should not cause a hard short. I have had no issues using genesis atties on a mech mod. I am using IMR batteries too. I have considered getting one of those 2c fuses too but have not done it yet. Since you have a Provari you can always use that to test your resistance as well as check for shorts.

 

[JollyRogers]

Been using genisis atomizers over a year or so and on mechanical mods mostly. Use IMR batteries because they are safer chem, can handle the current (have higher C rating), and check with a multi-meter before firing after a fresh build. Most of my setups are ~1.5 - 1.8Ω, which is no different from running a LR 510 atomizer. I have had a near dead short on a Zenesis once, a piece of kanthal stuck in the ground connection and touching the center post. Also, some have had shorts in the connections. Usually the tell tale sign of a problem on a mechanical mod with an IMR is the switch gets hot, or the spring collapses. Simply stop firing it and find out why. With a protected Lithium-Ion, it trips the protection (hopefully). I won't run unprotected Li-ion batts.

 

[hjalte81]

I used AW IMR in my Provari and my mechanical Puresmoker Legacy mini (weather I'm using the Kick or not)

I would get a a multimeter anyways just cause they are super handy. Take a look at the Legacy for a mechanical, I know it's not a telescoping mod but they do have extension caps for different batteries. They were one of the first with a bottom button mode and it is built very well. These things are near bullet proof, definitely worth the price difference over the Smoktech

Thanks... Will look at the legacy. One reason I want the telescope is that it is easy to get hold of.
The next big purchase will probably be an orion v2.1

 

[hjalte81]

I use Genesis' on mechanical and VV mods. I usually check the resistance on my Provari or with a multimeter before attatching to my mech mod. A hot spot should not cause a hard short. I have had no issues using genesis atties on a mech mod. I am using IMR batteries too. I have considered getting one of those 2c fuses too but have not done it yet. Since you have a Provari you can always use that to test your resistance as well as check for shorts.

Yeah, using the provari first was also my initial thought, but some people only have mechanical and since they keep posting here, I assume they haven't exploded

 

[hjalte81]

Been using genisis atomizers over a year or so and on mechanical mods mostly. Use IMR batteries because they are safer chem, can handle the current (have higher C rating), and check with a multi-meter before firing after a fresh build. Most of my setups are ~1.5 - 1.8Ω, which is no different from running a LR 510 atomizer. I have had a near dead short on a Zenesis once, a piece of kanthal stuck in the ground connection and touching the center post. Also, some have had shorts in the connections. Usually the tell tale sign of a problem on a mechanical mod with an IMR is the switch gets hot, or the spring collapses. Simply stop firing it and find out why. With a protected Lithium-Ion, it trips the protection (hopefully). I won't run unprotected Li batts.

Thanks... Isn't there something about IMR's are actually more dangerous because they have the ability to get more power out more quickly?

 

[JollyRogers]

Thanks... Isn't there something about IMR's are actually more dangerous because they have the ability to get more power out more quickly?

More dangerous??? Well they can provide more current, and do that safer then a Li-ion. In the case of a dead short, they can get extremely hot.

The bottom line is, there is a risk no matter the choice. The risk is highest with Li-ion non-protected batteries, lower with protected Li-ion batteries, and in my opinion, lower with Li-Mn IMR batteries. Break the circuit by letting off the switch or removing the load if it gets hot. This has not let me down, once on a GGTS (shorted 510 connection - I also did not have the fuse or spring in it), twice on a STURM MOD (shorted 510 connection), and once on a touch switch mod (spring collapsed due to 510 connection short). Notice the common issue? The 510 connection. This is one of the reasons I have become picky with my genisis 510 connection atomizers, and also why I prefer a genisis hybrid. I don't use regular atomizers or cartomizers at all anymore.

Do not charge batteries unattended. Don't put any battery in a situation to where it can fire constantly by accident. I use low resistance setups, so I use IMRs, and the Provari does the same (as recommended by ProVape), due to the load it puts on the battery. The IMR can handle the load. If it gets hot release the switch on a mechanical mod. And as far as stacking batteries... I have no reason, so don't.

ETA: http://vapcentral.blogspot.com/2010/08/battery-faq.html

 

[BuGlen]

I generally recommend a simple rule of thumb when selecting batteries for a device: If the device can work as designed with a protected battery, then use the protected battery. Some devices (like the Provari) are designed to use the AW IMR (safer chem) batteries, but the Provari has good safety features built right into the device. Mechanical devices do not have these features by design, so protected batteries from a trusted manufacturer (like AW or Panasonic) is probably your best option to make it as safe as possible.

Other safety recommendations (as others may have mentioned):

• Always purchase batteries from trusted manufactures and vetted vendors. Do not get fooled by "deals" from eBay sellers or other sources that offer "the same batteries for cheap".
• Use a good charger with protection features. This is an area of technology that has advanced quite a bit over the past few years, and it's definitely worth getting a charger like a Pila or XTar which incorporates multi-phase charging and automatic shut off at the proper charge level.
• Do not leave charging batteries unattended. This doesn't mean that you have to be in the same room staring at the charger for 2 hours, but you should check on the charging process every 15 minutes or so to ensure your batteries aren't getting hot during the charging process (warm is good, hot is not).
• Try to avoid devices that require battery stacking. Stacking batteries is still considered an advanced technique which requires you to maintain the batteries very carefully and verify that they are matched in terms of charge and internal resistance.

Hope this helps!

 

[hjalte81]

More dangerous??? Well they can provide more current, and do that safer then a Li-ion. In the case of a dead short, they can get extremely hot.

The bottom line is, there is a risk no matter the choice. The risk is highest with Li-ion non-protected batteries, lower with protected Li-ion batteries, and in my opinion, lower with Li-Mn IMR batteries. Break the circuit by letting off the switch or removing the load if it gets hot. This has not let me down, once on a GGTS (shorted 510 connection - I also did not have the fuse or spring in it), twice on a STURM MOD (shorted 510 connection), and once on a touch switch mod (spring collapsed due to 510 connection short). Notice the common issue? The 510 connection. This is one of the reasons I have become picky with my genisis 510 connection atomizers, and also why I prefer a genisis hybrid. I don't use regular atomizers or cartomizers at all anymore.

Do not charge batteries unattended. Don't put any battery in a situation to where it can fire constantly by accident. I use low resistance setups, so I use IMRs, and the Provari does the same (as recommended by ProVape), due to the load it puts on the battery. The IMR can handle the load. If it gets hot release the switch on a mechanical mod. And as far as stacking batteries... I have no reason, so don't.

ETA: http://vapcentral.blogspot.com/2010/08/battery-faq.html

Thank you... Will check out the link

 

[hjalte81]

I generally recommend a simple rule of thumb when selecting batteries for a device: If the device can work as designed with a protected battery, then use the protected battery. Some devices (like the Provari) are designed to use the AW IMR (safer chem) batteries, but the Provari has good safety features built right into the device. Mechanical devices do not have these features by design, so protected batteries from a trusted manufacturer (like AW or Panasonic) is probably your best option to make it as safe as possible.

Other safety recommendations (as others may have mentioned):

• Always purchase batteries from trusted manufactures and vetted vendors. Do not get fooled by "deals" from eBay sellers or other sources that offer "the same batteries for cheap".
• Use a good charger with protection features. This is an area of technology that has advanced quite a bit over the past few years, and it's definitely worth getting a charger like a Pila or XTar which incorporates multi-phase charging and automatic shut off at the proper charge level.
• Do not leave charging batteries unattended. This doesn't mean that you have to be in the same room staring at the charger for 2 hours, but you should check on the charging process every 15 minutes or so to ensure your batteries aren't getting hot during the charging process (warm is good, hot is not).
• Try to avoid devices that require battery stacking. Stacking batteries is still considered an advanced technique which requires you to maintain the batteries very carefully and verify that they are matched in terms of charge and internal resistance.

Hope this helps!

It did... Thank you.

When you are talking about protected batteries, do you mean the batteries that have a little extra thingy on the bottom (I guess it's kind of a 2cent fuse, built in to the battery). I have some trustfire 18350 which is about 2mm longer than my other 18350 batteires and they should have some extra protection built in. this: The anatomy of a Protected Battery

 

[BuGlen]

It did... Thank you.

When you are talking about protected batteries, do you mean the batteries that have a little extra thingy on the bottom (I guess it's kind of a 2cent fuse, built in to the battery). I have some trustfire 18350 which is about 2mm longer than my other 18350 batteires and they should have some extra protection built in. this: The anatomy of a Protected Battery

Yes. The important features of the protected battery are as outlined in that post being overcharging, over discharge, and short circuit cutoff features. These are the key features in the protection circuit of devices such as the Provari, so for pure mechanical devices which don't include these, having the features on the battery are absolutely a safety benefit.

 

[peteskeet]

sorry for the bump i had the exact same question. i figured id rather look it up than start a new thread. to add to this question would it be worth it getting a kick? i know people just say you can re wrap coils to make them whatever resistance you want but with a kick wouldn't it help with inconsistency issues since the resistance can change over time. also would it make the device "safer"?

 

[spraintz]

I like the Kick, it's an easy and relatively cheap way to turn a mechanical 18xxx battery mod into something regulated and a lil more advanced and customizable. The Kick does include protections from shorts and also has a nifty "warning system" for when yer battery is low. The quality and diameter of the mod will play a factor in how well the Kick can/will work as the ground spring/connection on the Kick needs to make solid contact with the inside of the tube.

If going to a Kick definitely go with a high quality IMR for best performance and safety.

 

[peteskeet]

I like the Kick, it's an easy and relatively cheap way to turn a mechanical 18xxx battery mod into something regulated and a lil more advanced and customizable. The Kick does include protections from shorts and also has a nifty "warning system" for when yer battery is low. The quality and diameter of the mod will play a factor in how well the Kick can/will work as the ground spring/connection on the Kick needs to make solid contact with the inside of the tube.

If going to a Kick definitely go with a high quality IMR for best performance and safety.

thank you i was looking into getting the legacy mini mod from puresmoker to use along with a DID atomizer, i know its made to be used with a kick so i wasn't sure if it was worth it or not.

 

[spraintz]

I used the Puresmoker Prodigy for over 2 years and thought it was the greatest thing ever, very well built device. I went to a Provari but still wanted a 18xxx battery mechanical and got the Legacy. It is friggin sweet, high end features, capabilities and looks without the "status symbol" high prices

 

[Rule62]

I vape my DiD Clones on a Provari, which I use in conjunction with an online Ohms Law calculator. I make sure that the resulting amps of my set up doesn't exceed the safety cut off of the Provari; which is 2.5 amps for the version 1, and 3.5 amps for the version 2. As I type this, I'm vaping a 2.0 ohm build on a version 1 Provari, at 4.5 volts, which results in 2.25 amps. Below the 2.5 limit.

 

[spraintz]

and just to show it's possible, I have my DuD wrapped with a 1.1ohm coil running on my Provari V2 at 3.9v. That's 3.54545amps, 13.82727watts.........no errors, no cut-off.

That is waaay to hot for my tastes and I wouldn't dare push that any further but it can be done and still be stable......talk about instant and huge vapor