imr high drain 18650 1500 mah 20 amp continues 60 bust ...draining too quickly?

[eltranced]

i got a mechanical mod k100+ with right now a 4 wrap 30 gauge single coil on RDA. Sweet spot starts at full charge and lasts only 10 - 15 minutes ( not even vaping that much) then i used it for another 40 minutes and switch to a second idential IMR which does the same... i got these batteries because ill try sub ohms ... but are people running mech's with sub ohm draining the batteries that quickly and stock up on them? or whats the trick?


at the store they had ICR 2000 mah, a hybrid, then some 3000 mah batteries. If i get the 3000 mah which say is regular icr with what a 10amp limit? will i even have a sweet spot with those on non sub ohms coil? or will just run like imr when its drained to 3. something volts but run longer?


im thinking that if its not a sub -ohm set up that i should have went with VV mod that would have given a constant voltage.. because that sounds nicer that having to swap batteries every 10 -20 minutes....

 

[Baditude]

RBA/RDA pull more amps from any battery than regular juice delivery attachments, so your results are not that surprising. Only 15 minutes use sounds meager, I admit. Which battery are they?

RBA's require the high drain ability of an IMR battery that NCR/ICR li-ion batteries don't have. NEVER use a non-protected NCR/ICR battery in a mod. MAh ratings are rather dubious and are not the most important specification when choosing a battery for RBA's, amp rating is far more important.

Regulated (adjustable voltage) mods can use RBAs, they just can't use Sub Ohm coils. Regulated mods require IMR (high drain) or Hybrid batteries. I personally prefer using my RBA's with a regulated mod. It's far safer than using a mechanical mod, and as you pointed out the voltage remains constant throughout the life of the battery. It also allows changing the voltage to whatever flavor you are using.

Mechanical mods are often used with RBA/RDAs because they do not have the built-in electronic protection that regulated mods use and thereby bypass the restrictions that regulated mods have. This allows them to do Sub Ohms, which in turn pull even more amps from a battery and will require an IMR battery with a continuous discharge rating of 10 amps or higher.

Always check the coil resistance vs the amp rating of your battery using Ohm's Law to insure the battery has enough amps to power your coil safely.

OHM'S LAW CALCULATOR

AW IMR
18650 2000mah 10Amp CDR
18650 1600mah 24A

Samsung hybrid (LiNiCoMnP)
INR18650-20R 2000mah 22A

MNKE IMR
IMR18650 1500mah 20A

Panasonic ​or Orbtronic hybrid
CGR18650CH (IMR/Li Ion hybrid) 2250mAh 10A
NCR18650PD (LiNiCoAl) 2900mAh 10A

Efest IMR
18650 2000mah 10A
18650 1600mAh 30A

Sony
us18650vct3 1600mAh 30A
us18650v3 IMR 2250mAh 10A​

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected

 

[Strontium]

Does "IMR" battery that you are currently using has any name, or any print on it?

Sellers today are trying to sell all kinds of crap under the IMR code.

IMHO most of those sellers do not know what they are selling.

 

[eltranced]

im not in . sub-ohm's right now, im around 1.5 ohm what im interested in is finding the right battery for a mech with RDA that can give aleast a few hours of sweet spot , from what you said it sounds like its not realistic. Is there any benefit to getting ICR battery for 1.5 ohm builds? Since its not high drain will it not drain quicker? or do IMR's perform the same if they dont require high amps?


its kinda disappointing to know that i most likely will need a 6 slot charger that i will have to live by, carrying a dozen of batteries if i want to vape all day on the go..... because these suckers drain quickly and charge slow .... ehhhh....

 

[eltranced]

Does "IMR" battery that you are currently using has any name, or any print on it?

Sellers today are trying to sell all kinds of crap under the IMR code.

IMHO most of those sellers do not know what they are selling.

it looks legit, orange with prints
MNKE IMR
IMR18650 1500mah 20A
MH4698 RoHS

 

[Baditude]

im not in . sub-ohm's right now, im around 1.5 ohm what im interested in is finding the right battery for a mech with RDA that can give aleast a few hours of sweet spot , from what you said it sounds like its not realistic. Is there any benefit to getting ICR battery for 1.5 ohm builds? Since its not high drain will it not drain quicker? or do IMR's perform the same if they dont require high amps?

it looks legit, orange with prints
MNKE IMR
IMR18650 1500mah 20A
MH4698 RoHS

There is no advantage of using any NCR/ICR battery over an IMR battery for any application. An IMR or hybrid battery is superior in all aspects.

MNKE is supposed to be an ideal battery for your application. I'm stumped by your results with them.

 

[eltranced]

you want to hear another wierd thing? im sure youre familiar with the Intellicharger i2... so before i switched to k100+ i was using kts+ that came with icr battery and aside from two kts+ going bad with a super hot switch button which is besides the point but so i put the icr and actually also the imr battery on the charger ... then waited for it to charge full... then i wanted to see if i took it out and put it back that it would say its fully charged so i dont recall anymore correctly if both icr and imr but icr for sure started to charge on third bar all over ... i gave it a minute and gave up waiting ... told that to the store... they said thats should have happened ..so ya i thought charger was bad but looks like the current batteries i have if i take out and put back when fully charged show up as fully charged ... so donno what that was all about... the charges also smells kinda funny but i read on the this forum that lot of people have that too.


and at some point i thought kts+ messed up the batteries because it took like 5 hours to charge them...mind that kts+ was getting hot and not the battery

 

[Strontium]

it looks legit, orange with prints
MNKE IMR
IMR18650 1500mah 20A
MH4698 RoHS

Assuming that everything is OK with your set up.??


The one and only option you have is Samsung INR18650-20R 20amp. or Orbtronic SX22 22amp.(rumor is that Orbs are new Sanyo RX).


AW 1600 = MNKE 1500 plus maybe 2-4 min. extra vaping

 

[Coastal Cowboy]

The battery should come off the charger at 4.2v. After a few minutes rest, the voltage should go to 4.1v.

If you put the battery back on the charger, it will read the 4.1v and charge the battery back to 4.2v.

This will seriously reduce the battery's life.

Don't use unprotected ICR's in your mod, especially if your unit is showing the capability of draining the cell very quickly, and it sounds like your device does.

 

[Baditude]

How are you certain what ohm/resistance your coils are? Are you using a multimeter to check them?

A fire button or your mod should NOT be getting hot. Something's not right here, and I strongly advise figuring that out before continuing to use it.

 

[Strontium]

The battery should come off the charger at 4.2v. After a few minutes rest, the voltage should go to 4.1v.

If you put the battery back on the charger, it will read the 4.1v and charge the battery back to 4.2v.

This will seriously reduce the battery's life.

Don't use unprotected ICR's in your mod, especially if your unit is showing the capability of draining the cell very quickly, and it sounds like your device does.

In addition to that: one depleted li-ion 18650 should take more than 4-5 hours to charge bcse i2 pushing only 500mA

 

[tj99959]

The obvious to me would be to check the battery voltage at the point that you find it's performance unacceptable. This varies greatly from person to person. If you're finding 3.7v unacceptable for instance, sorry but you're SOL with that mechanical as it is now.. It would also be nice to know what your "under load" voltage loss compared to the "no load" voltage is. As an example, the out of the box performance of my Zen-2 was horrible. Simply replacing the spring in the switch made all the difference in the world. As often as not the problem you are having isn't the battery.

 

[eltranced]

does coil have brake in period? it seems like i'v cought up to my charging ... when i put the coil in at first was getting hotter on 4volt full charge and drained battery quicker which took an hour to charge i've been cycling the batteries for night and chain vaping ... now the last one took me 30 min to charge up and also on full charge its firing the same as the battery i was using for a while... no intensity ingrease on full 4volts.. interesting maybe because i've been typing that i dont notice im not using the vape.... but i should have got a slight voltage boost on fresh charge

 

[eltranced]

How are you certain what ohm/resistance your coils are? Are you using a multimeter to check them?

A fire button or your mod should NOT be getting hot. Something's not right here, and I strongly advise figuring that out before continuing to use it.

i've checked my resistence at the store... yes there was a defect on not 1 kts+ but 2... of them so i said give me something else.. thats not made by kts brand.. and voila k100+ ... working like a charm

 

[Coastal Cowboy]

How are you certain what ohm/resistance your coils are? Are you using a multimeter to check them?

A fire button or your mod should NOT be getting hot. Something's not right here, and I strongly advise figuring that out before continuing to use it.

Good point.

I'd like to know what resistance the coils are, too.

The OP might be heading down a very dangerous path. Don't want to see any unfortunate incidents...

 

[Baditude]

i've checked my resistence at the store... yes there was a defect on not 1 kts+ but 2... of them so i said give me something else.. thats not made by kts brand.. and voila k100+ ... working like a charm

Regardless, you ABSOLUTELY need to get a digital multimeter and learn how to use it. This is ESSENTIAL if you are wrapping your own coils. Coil resistance can change on any given day for a variety of reasons, and they should be checked and rechecked on a daily basis. This is highly dangerous not using a DMM. You're playing Russian Roulette not having and using your own. If you don't use a digital multimeter you have no business using an RBA.

These batteries pack a LOT of energy in them, and if abused or not used properly they can vent flames or explode.




Safety & Information Resources for RBA Use for a Beginner

How to Use Your Multimeter

Video on How to Use a Digital Multimeter

 

[Coastal Cowboy]

+1 on the multimeter recommendation. You don't have to spend a lot of money on them, either. Lowes, Home Depot or any auto parts store should have a good one at ~$20.

You'll be amazed at all of the things you can do with it, too.

 

[Strontium]

Stop using it !

Go to store if you do not have voltmeter (10 bucks @ Walmart) check everything , and double check it.

MNKE (any IMR) is not fun @ all when shorted.

 

[eltranced]

Good point.

I'd like to know what resistance the coils are, too.

The OP might be heading down a very dangerous path. Don't want to see any unfortunate incidents...

i was so ambitious to get it working i've spend 4 days putting coil after coil... more then 15 different type giving the benefit of the doubt it was resistance problem.. so tried all kinds nano, micro, did sub.... nothing worked right and on top the switch would just get hot, so hot i had to hold it with double wrapped towel... with k100+ ... first coil... bam! second... third! bam... works... all works...

 

[Strontium]

You are joking, right?