Others have had the overheating and fast drain problem with the K100. As stated many times I'll add in my
If you're using rba's without testing them on a multi tester to be safe start saving your $$ for some serious dental work.- Status
Others have had the overheating and fast drain problem with the K100. As stated many times I'll add in my
If you're using rba's without testing them on a multi tester to be safe start saving your $$ for some serious dental work.
I was just told by the gent from Orbtronic, regarding the new SX22 "It is our newest model 22 Amp. SX22, which will outperform any AW IMR battery." Thats a claim that I think we can all trust. Cheaper then equivalent Sanyo's and Samsungs (on ebay at least).
www.orbtronic.com/ultra-high-drain-22-amp-18650-orbtronic-sx22-rechargeable-hybrid-li-ion-battery
$11.99 for 2. Comes with a battery storage case. When I get some, I'll do a sub-Ohm review.
www.orbtronic.com/ultra-high-drain-22-amp-18650-orbtronic-sx22-rechargeable-hybrid-li-ion-battery
$11.99 for 2. Comes with a battery storage case. When I get some, I'll do a sub-Ohm review.
Ohms per inch for 30g Kanthal is around 0.7 ohms. I can't see how you'd get an inch of Kanthal with only four wraps in a standard RDA, unless it's a rather big coil. To get a 1.5 ohm coil with 30g Kanthal you'd need over two inches of wire. If you were wrapping on s/s mesh all bets are off.
You are vaping sub ohm, that's why your batteries are not lasting.
My recommendation: Buy a Protank 2 and run 2.2 ohm factory coils. A battery will last you all day.
Learn to walk before you try running. Really sorry to be blunt, but that's the best and only advice I feel I can give you. Luckily you are using a battery that can stand a fair bit of abuse.
Who is this vape shop you went to?
You are vaping sub ohm, that's why your batteries are not lasting.
My recommendation: Buy a Protank 2 and run 2.2 ohm factory coils. A battery will last you all day.
Learn to walk before you try running. Really sorry to be blunt, but that's the best and only advice I feel I can give you. Luckily you are using a battery that can stand a fair bit of abuse.
Who is this vape shop you went to?
You can use an inch of wire with 4 wraps easily enough. I get ~1.2Ω from a 5/4 wrap in my AGA-T v1, and about 1Ω with a 5/4 in my chobra using 0.6mm Kanthal A1 ribbon, which is very close to it's 30ga counterpart in terms of resistance.
As with all things, taste is subjective - but I would think that aiming for a 1.5ohm coil will land OP back in the original situation sans the safety hazard. That is to say that it will taste great until it starts running at around 8.5W, after which it will start to taper off while the battery is still at 3.5V(under load).
Ideally, you want to discover a personal target resistance that will perform the way you want it to until it reaches about 3.1v under load - when it's time to charge the battery anyway. This of course takes some trial and error, and regular checking of voltage with the multimeter until you have a solid understanding of how the setup performs at each voltage.
Note that the standing and load voltages will usually be at a spread of 0.1-0.2v once it drains to about 50% usable charge, meaning that if you pull your battery out and test it on the meter, it will read about .2V higher than what it's actually operating at while in the device and firing the coil. be sure to keep that in mind if you meter your batteries to determine when to charge them. you should generally never let them drop below 3.1V (recharge when meter reads it at 3.3V)
As with all things, taste is subjective - but I would think that aiming for a 1.5ohm coil will land OP back in the original situation sans the safety hazard. That is to say that it will taste great until it starts running at around 8.5W, after which it will start to taper off while the battery is still at 3.5V(under load).
Ideally, you want to discover a personal target resistance that will perform the way you want it to until it reaches about 3.1v under load - when it's time to charge the battery anyway. This of course takes some trial and error, and regular checking of voltage with the multimeter until you have a solid understanding of how the setup performs at each voltage.
Note that the standing and load voltages will usually be at a spread of 0.1-0.2v once it drains to about 50% usable charge, meaning that if you pull your battery out and test it on the meter, it will read about .2V higher than what it's actually operating at while in the device and firing the coil. be sure to keep that in mind if you meter your batteries to determine when to charge them. you should generally never let them drop below 3.1V (recharge when meter reads it at 3.3V)
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the kts side button is junk, my brother has one and that sucker will burn you, the build is good, the batteries are good, the mod sucks. he ordered a new mech to replace it. I almost bought one and so glad I didnt
Amen to that brotha! I've heard the same thing, a lot, and have experienced it myself. Does anyone know if all side button mods do this, or is it just the kts?
Sent from my LG G2, using Smack-a-talk HD.
Low quality, badly designed mods will sooner or later send somebody to hospital.
I have one of the first kts mods that came out. I had my button get hot and I checked the mod out discovered it needed cleaning up inside. I then sanded the contacts to the brass and it still works great to this day. Chain vapping at sub ohms is not a good idea. I sub ohm occasionally and my batteries last for way longer than 15 minutes. The op is doing something wrong and should definitely learn some more about the subject before continuing down the road they are on. Giant clouds of vapor may look cool but sub ohm isn't about that. I find this thread very troubling for several reasons.
- Status
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