In need of electrical help.

[Hotbox147]

i recently purchased a new dimitri box mod after messing up my old one, (still works just scratched the paint and I'm OCD with things like that) any I put the same build on the new one in the same atty with the same batteries and it shorted one of my batteries. Took it apart and noticed the machining on the actual fire button/switch wasn't brilliant, left over metal that hadn't come off during threading to be precise. I have sorted that out but need to know if and how I can test the fire switch now with a multimeter without trying it with another battery in there. Thankyou in advance

 

[Hotbox147]

Anyone?

 

[wiredlove]

From looking at the design, it looks like you should check continuity from the switch side assembled positive battery post and the positive/center of the 510 pin, with the mechanical switch disengaged. If there's continuity between the two with the mechanical switch disengaged, then there's still something shorting and completing the positive connection within the bridge under the delrin. You can also take the actual switch portion out and check for continuity between the switch contact screw and the outside body of the switch. If there's continuity there, there's something wrong inside the mechanical switch itself. How to test for continuity with a digital multimeter

Were the metal shavings within the switch or under the delrin/plastic?

 

[Hotbox147]

The switch it self has a outer barrel an inner barrel and an inner inner barrel. The metal shavings were connecting the inner inner barrel to the outer barrel. Like I said I believe this was the issue for shorting in the first place I just don't fancy using another battery and that getting hot aswell

 

[Hotbox147]

From looking at the design, it looks like you should check continuity from the switch side assembled positive battery post and the positive/center of the 510 pin, with the mechanical switch disengaged. If there's continuity between the two with the mechanical switch disengaged, then there's still something shorting and completing the positive connection within the bridge under the delrin. You can also take the actual switch portion out and check for continuity between the switch contact screw and the outside body of the switch. If there's continuity there, there's something wrong inside the mechanical switch itself. How to test for continuity with a digital multimeter

Were the metal shavings within the switch or under the delrin/plastic?

The highlighted area was where it hadn't been machined properly and there was metal over the black piece. Thus connecting the most inner part to the outer part. I assumed the black piece is for insulation and after noticing it wasn't machined proper as stated I scraped it off. I have tested for continuity I think, my multimeter doesn't have a beep setting just resistance and it's showing its now an open circuit, if I bridge the switch with one of the multimeter leads it shows a closed circuit so I believe I may have sorted the issue. I will await your reply before trying a battery in there. Thanks again @wiredlove

 

[Hotbox147]

@wiredlove @Mooch will I be okay to use a battery?

 

[Mooch]

@wiredlove @Mooch will I be okay to use a battery?

Sorry, I just don't know. It's just too hard to diagnose these kinds of things from afar to say all is OK.

 

[Hotbox147]

I decided to bite the bullet so to speak and try it with one of my lower quality batteries. It worked a treat. I just need to sort the locking feature out in the switch like I did my other one. Thanks a lot @wiredlove for the info on continuity testing. Helped out a lot.

 

[wiredlove]

Sorry for not getting back to you @Hotbox147, went out of town for Christmas/New Years vacation. :/ Glad it worked out for you.

 

[Hotbox147]

Sorry for not getting back to you @Hotbox147, went out of town for Christmas/New Years vacation. :/ Glad it worked out for you.

No worries @wiredlove wouldnt have been sure until I did the continuity test that you recommended. Thanks again!!