In the event of a short with a mech mod,

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Auxx

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Good and safe batteries like VTCs will heat a mech to 100°C in less than a minute. If you feel that the temperature is rising rapidly, try to unscrew the atty or disassemble mod. I can get my battery out of Nemesis in 2-3 seconds.

If it is already too hot, then as was already mentioned, throw it away somewhere safe.
 

tj99959

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    beckdg

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    So aside from the Vtc batteries which are becoming difficult to find, the AW imrs are also considered good and safe?
    Yes AW has a following because they were an innovator. However they've fallen back in performance in the 18650 market as the big players have all stepped up their game.

    The Sony vtc4 also has a staggering voltage drop for its amp rating. Akin to the AW 1600 mah.

    For .8 to .6 builds I'd highly recommend the Samsung 25R. Probably the LG he2 also but won't say for sure until I've had mine for a little while.
     

    Mrez

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    Yes AW has a following because they were an innovator. However they've fallen back in performance in the 18650 market as the big players have all stepped up their game.

    The Sony vtc4 also has a staggering voltage drop for its amp rating. Akin to the AW 1600 mah.

    For .8 to .6 builds I'd highly recommend the Samsung 25R. Probably the LG he2 also but won't say for sure until I've had mine for a little while.

    By voltage drop, if I had to guess that refers to the length of use per charge? I have noticed that my Vtc 4 don't last as long as I was expecting. I took a freshly charged battery that was at 4.1 and change volts, used it on and off for 2 or 3 hours and when I checked it again it was at 3.8V. I'll check around for the Samsung's. Though ifbyou know a reliable source I always have room for another bookmark in my browser. :)
     

    beckdg

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    By voltage drop, if I had to guess that refers to the length of use per charge? I have noticed that my Vtc 4 don't last as long as I was expecting. I took a freshly charged battery that was at 4.1 and change volts, used it on and off for 2 or 3 hours and when I checked it again it was at 3.8V. I'll check around for the Samsung's. Though ifbyou know a reliable source I always have room for another bookmark in my browser. :)
    Voltage drop...
    When you put the battery to work the voltage it outputs sags. A battery with 4.2 volt charge may only put 4.0 volts out to a 1 ohm coil. A saggy battery may only deliver 3.8 volts. It will affect your vape and how much of your capacity you can use every charge.

    http://www.kidneypuncher.com/samsung-inr18650-25r-2500mah/
     

    The Torch

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    Voltage drop...
    When you put the battery to work the voltage it outputs sags. A battery with 4.2 volt charge may only put 4.0 volts out to a 1 ohm coil. A saggy battery may only deliver 3.8 volts. It will affect your vape and how much of your capacity you can use every charge.

    Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh - Kidney Puncher

    Unless things have changed in the last year, the working voltage of a Lithium Ion battery is 3.6 - 3.7 volts on a fresh charge. You measure 4.2 when the battery is not connected to a circuit and is fully charged. This is due to the internal resistance of the battery that makes the voltage drop when current is being delivered..

    The link you provided specifies a "nominal voltage" of 3.6V.
     

    beckdg

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    Unless things have changed in the last year, the working voltage of a Lithium Ion battery is 3.6 - 3.7 volts on a fresh charge. You measure 4.2 when the battery is not connected to a circuit and is fully charged. This is due to the internal resistance of the battery that makes the voltage drop when current is being delivered..

    The link you provided specifies a "nominal voltage" of 3.6V.
    Those numbers mean nothing without the full context. With a 1 ohm coil a cell isn't going to instantly dive to 3.6 volts unless it's garbage. The Sony vtc5 for example loses about 250mah on a 2 ohm coil before it drops below 4.0 volts. That's 10% of its capacity. With a .5 or .1 ohm coil the voltage is going to sag much greater. The resistance of the load in that case is much closer to the resistance of the cell. Thus the cell resists outputting instead of the load resisting current. Or rather the cells internal resistance is now a quantifiable factor adding to the total resistance while refusing a substantial portion of current that would be delivered to the load under a steady voltage output.

    They're not just hard numbers that apply unilaterally across the board. They're variables that are constantly changing as the chemistry changes from one cell to another according to chemistry age and other factors that affect cell health and the load applied changes in intensity pulse pattern and duration.

    Nominal 3.6V is the mean value between 4.2v for which charging past can damage the cell and 3.0v for which discharging below can damage the cell. But nominal more refers to how we can charge the cells for our purposes. A 3.6 or 3.7 nominal cell should be charged to 4.2v. The Panasonic hybrids for example (the pf iirc) can be discharged to 2.5v.

    It was a simple (not real world) example to get the point across. It did just that quite well. Let's not confuse those looking to understand.
     
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    beckdg

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    Tell you what. Go to your vehicle. Turn the key forward so the radio and windows will work. Don't turn it on yet. Locate the battery indicator on the instrument cluster. Notice what the needle is pointing to no matter what is currently running in your vehicle. This is the voltage sag applicable to that load from what your battery would have measured before you turned the key to on. Now keep an eye on that gauge and start the vehicle. You'll notice the increased load will cause a dramatic decrease in voltage very swiftly. This is the v drop applicable to a much greater load. Then the vehicle will start and applicable data will cease because the engine will be powering the alternator and replenishing that voltage above the batteries resting state.
     

    The Torch

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    True, more amps = more voltage drop and also voltage sag due to chemistry not being able to keep up. No need to make it such a big thing. My example is based on regular electronics, not circuits on which the user can set the resistance and I did mention "unless things have changed" because I'm well aware that battery chemistry gets better and better all the time and I have enough on my plate at work keep following yet another runaway technology. I work on 7 different types of technologies already (electronics, mechanics and chemicals) all used in testing parts made for the aerospace field, oil and energy and transport, so I don't need a picture or to put the key in the car (did I mention I also did car mechanics for many years?). All I have learned reading your posts is that it does sounds like there was an interesting leap in battery builds in the last year and a half as older batteries did not put out more than ~3.7V when under load. Then again, max output was also around 10 amps on a decent 18650. Thank you for the lesson.
     

    The Torch

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    Just glad you were able to learn something torche.

    Sorry I was so long winded. Please understand I posted to clarify. Not necessarily just for you. Hence the simplified example of starting the car. Should have been more clear about that.

    I'm thinking just sticking to the car example would be clearer for those with less knowledge, but hopefully some will learn a lot more from your first post. No hard feelings.

    The Torch
     
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