I'm working up plans for a DNA30 powered box mod. I'm a woodworker by hobby, and I always use sketchup to plan my projects. This one is no different. 
You'll probably be able to instantly tell that this mod is Wapari inspired, but I'm hoping that some of the differences result in a lot better overall design than the W-Box. I'm using the tried and true 300g tac switches for the up and down buttons, and have a standard run of the mill 16mm NO fire switch. I'm not to happy with the throw of the buttons that I ordered, but will start with them and work on finding something a bit better. I'm using the fatdaddy 510 with 22mm lock washer for the 510 connection. The battery holder is the Keystone 1042. I'm planning on using a Deans Connector between the battery and the fuse with a bit of extra lead wire so that the mod can be dissassembled without soldering.
I would appreciate advice on whether y'all think that that it would be wise to insulate the negative end of the atty connection from the body of the mod (e.g. do I need to come up with some sort of delrin piece to put between the stainless panel and the fatdaddy 510? I wouldn't think so, but I'll be the first to admit that digital electronics are not my strongest suit.
The front panel is going to be made of 306 stainless flat bar. It'll be a bit of a pain to work by hand (especially milling out the window for the screen), but not anything that a little bit of patience and gumption can't overcome.
Here's a couple of screen shots from my sketchup work. If any of you want the sketchup file, pm me. I'd love any thoughts or advice y'all might have.
You'll probably be able to instantly tell that this mod is Wapari inspired, but I'm hoping that some of the differences result in a lot better overall design than the W-Box. I'm using the tried and true 300g tac switches for the up and down buttons, and have a standard run of the mill 16mm NO fire switch. I'm not to happy with the throw of the buttons that I ordered, but will start with them and work on finding something a bit better. I'm using the fatdaddy 510 with 22mm lock washer for the 510 connection. The battery holder is the Keystone 1042. I'm planning on using a Deans Connector between the battery and the fuse with a bit of extra lead wire so that the mod can be dissassembled without soldering.
I would appreciate advice on whether y'all think that that it would be wise to insulate the negative end of the atty connection from the body of the mod (e.g. do I need to come up with some sort of delrin piece to put between the stainless panel and the fatdaddy 510? I wouldn't think so, but I'll be the first to admit that digital electronics are not my strongest suit.
The front panel is going to be made of 306 stainless flat bar. It'll be a bit of a pain to work by hand (especially milling out the window for the screen), but not anything that a little bit of patience and gumption can't overcome.
Here's a couple of screen shots from my sketchup work. If any of you want the sketchup file, pm me. I'd love any thoughts or advice y'all might have.
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