I've been having some strange ohm readings on my SVD as of late. Before firing the device, I get very high ohm readings (4.0+) After a couple of fires, the ohms will settle down to the correct resistance. I use a combination of LR cartomizers and rebuildables (drippers w/ microcoils / std coils and recoiled evod heads), all should be around 1.5 to 2.2 ohms. This occurs the most on my microcoil builds. Thoughts?
Innokin SVD - Strange Ohm Resistance Reading HELP!
- Thread starter speshiok46
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The only thing i could tell you to try is make sure your getting good contact on your posts..make sure the screws are nice and tight on the positive and negative posts. I had a jumpy ohm microcoil the other day...i didn't get a good wrap around the positive post because the wire 32 guage broke and was barely attached to the post. I tightened it down and the jumpy ohms stopped..but i just recoiled it and started over.
As long as it reads correct ohms after the atomizer or customizer is broken in you are fine. Occasionally my provari will do this with a brand new coil or carto. It will read like 2.8ohms then drop down to 2.3 or 2.0ohms. I would worry about it. If it really bothers you that much contact innokin.
Does this happen only on your rebuilds?
I have had the same issue before but ONLY on rebuilt coils (micro and standard).
Can't really give an explanation, but if it's not happening on the stock cartos or anything that you didn't rebuild, maybe an expert can narrow down the reasons.
I have had the same issue before but ONLY on rebuilt coils (micro and standard).
Can't really give an explanation, but if it's not happening on the stock cartos or anything that you didn't rebuild, maybe an expert can narrow down the reasons.
Check the threads on your SVD, atty and carto to make sure they're clean. Sometimes my SVD gives a rather odd reading. If backing the tank off a half turn and snugging it back down doesn't fix it, usually it tells me that things need to be cleaned up a bit.
hmm thanks everyone, it is much more jumpy on my rebuildables compared to stand stuff. On a cartomizer, I'll usually get 3 ohms then goes down to 2 ohms after a fire or two. It's most dramatic with my rebuildables, I'll get whacked out numbers 5+ ohms on a 1.8 ohm micro-coil for example. It'll take a good 5 or 6 long fires before it gets close. The wires are screwed in tight, almost too tight. I flick the leads just to make sure. Also, I've noticed the readings become less accurate when fresh juice is applied on the coils.
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