Innokin Zenith Pro Question

[sunnyskyez]

Hello,
Sorry if I'm in the wrong place. I need your help on what I'm doing wrong with the innokin zenith pro. After 10 years of the Kanger Single coil life, Ive made the move to Sub Ohm.

I know I'm definitely an MTL vapor, I don’t like to build anything just want to pop the coil in and enjoy, I like vaping at 8 -15 watts. I don’t like the higher watts as I'm a chain vapor and I burn to much liquid way to fast ($$$), and my batts drain way to fast.

After a ton of research I tried the Geekvape Z-tank, they have coils that use from 8-16 watts, so I got it. What I loved: the top air flow, it was MTL, good flavor, low wattage coils/ What I hate: tank too hard to see when filling or when liquid is low, no 5ml tank. I moved on but It was a good intro into Sub Ohm.

Moved to the Zenith Pro; What I Loved: MTL tank- good flavor, 5.5 ml tank, easy to see when filling or when it needs refilled, perfect wattage coils. What I Hate: bottom air flow, Glass & coil are little hard to get out. That's it.

I used the preloaded 1.2 coil first, I actually squeezed out over 6000 puffs on this (in use for 19 days), yeah I pushed it and the flavor was barley there. Next up the 1.0 coil- didn't like it. Vaped at the recommended 20 watts but that's just to hot for me, it actually burned a little on my lips, and the e-liquid went even faster, I had to back it down to 15 watts. After 6 days on this coil- I noticed liquid on top of my Jackaroo Mod, took the tank apart and there was liquid everywhere inside the airflow holes, it was a mess. See Pics. Anyway, I was going to buy another Zenith Pro and a bunch of coils but now I'm not so sure because of that major leakage problem. When I took it apart all was the way it should be, the seals were in place properly no damage to them, everything fit together tightly. What do you think I did wrong with this, using 15 watts instead of the 20watts? I wanted your input before I spend anymore money especially if its user error. I really think Top Air Flow tanks are better for no leakage and makes more sense being closer to the drip tip. Unfortunately its hard to find what I need for my perfect vape experience. What do you all think? Thanks for any advice.

 

[Territoo]

That doesn't appear to be a leak. It is more like condensation, a lot of it. Most atties will have some condensation, and I don't know if getting another of the same tank would be any better. To control the condensation, try wiping it off periodically so it doesn't build up. Your other option is to try a different tank and hope it has less condensation. The only tank I use that has drop in coils is the Smok Prince TFV12, and I don't use their drop in coils, but a RTA coil adapter. It does have top AF. I'm not saying it's the best one for you, it's just the only one I use. There's a Smok MAG 225W kit for sale for $20 in the classifieds that should have the tank. The mod is trash, it'll die on you very quickly, but the tank is okay. New ones cost $25 plus shipping.

Tanks,RDA’s,MODS ETC

From left to right….. 1. Lost vape centauraus 250c DNA MOD(gold ostrich color)included with lost vape leather centauraus case. 90$(like new with box and accessories) 2.lost vape 100c DNA MOD Hyperion(carbon fiber color) 75$(like new with box and...

www.e-cigarette-forum.com

 

[jwbnyc]

I find it’s helpful to check that the lower tank is screwed down good and tight by taking it off the mod and giving it a bit of boot to get it good and tight. This goes for all the Zenith tanks. Yes, it’s counter to the general advice not to over do screwing things too tightly together, but I’ve found it to be a cure for this particular problem with these particular tanks. They have a tendency to put a little juice down otherwise. YMMV.

 

[sunnyskyez]

That doesn't appear to be a leak. It is more like condensation, a lot of it. Most atties will have some condensation, and I don't know if getting another of the same tank would be any better. To control the condensation, try wiping it off periodically so it doesn't build up. Your other option is to try a different tank and hope it has less condensation. The only tank I use that has drop in coils is the Smok Prince TFV12, and I don't use their drop in coils, but a RTA coil adapter. It does have top AF. I'm not saying it's the best one for you, it's just the only one I use. There's a Smok MAG 225W kit for sale for $20 in the classifieds that should have the tank. The mod is trash, it'll die on you very quickly, but the tank is okay. New ones cost $25 plus shipping.

Tanks,RDA’s,MODS ETC

From left to right….. 1. Lost vape centauraus 250c DNA MOD(gold ostrich color)included with lost vape leather centauraus case. 90$(like new with box and accessories) 2.lost vape 100c DNA MOD Hyperion(carbon fiber color) 75$(like new with box and...

www.e-cigarette-forum.com

Hi Territoo, thanks for your help. I was only buying another ZPro because I was so impressed with the first on on 1.2ohm coil I wanted a back up tank. There was no condensation it was a flood of e-liquid. Ive had clear condensation at the top of the refill slot and just wiped it away. This was different. I did check out the Smok Prince and I almost jumped on it, I mean 8ml tank, geez Id be in heaven. But Its not a MTL and the coils run too hot for me. I thank you for your time..

 

[sunnyskyez]

I find it’s helpful to check that the lower tank is screwed down good and tight by taking it off the mod and giving it a bit of boot to get it good and tight. This goes for all the Zenith tanks. Yes, it’s counter to the general advice not to over do screwing things too tightly together, but I’ve found it to be a cure for this particular problem with these particular tanks. They have a tendency to put a little juice down otherwise. YMMV.

Hello jwbnyc: thanks for the help. I thought I had every thing tightened down, there were no gaps as I watch Phil's vid on YouTube but ya never know. I will buy more coils and give it another go. That was a pretty big flood. Maybe it was the coil 1.0 coil?? I like the tank over all, the 5.5ml is great. I wanted to buy another one as a back up. Id like to find more replacement seals to keep on hand as well but cant find any. I even emailed Innokin and they told me I had to check with the vendor I bought it from? One would think the company that created it would know exactly where to buy them, wouldnt they? I thank you very much for your time and help.

 

[Z-Lee]

Innokin's Z-coil tanks work a little differently than most other tanks. Each coil possesses its own 510 positive pin, so the bottom seals around it. They've done a very good job implementing this method, but it's not completely free of leaks. Most of the time, it's because the coil's been overused. Yes, they'll still put out flavor, but the wick's ability to properly hold juice breaks down and it will begin to leak down into the airflow compartment. This isn't just an Innokin thing, this is pretty much all tanks if you let the coil sit saturated for too long. Pod tanks are notorious for this.

Getting a new tank from any brand isn't going to fix this. There comes a point where you have to either put up with the leaking if you want to prolong your coil, or simply replace the coil and start fresh.

 

[sunnyskyez]

Thanks Z-Lee, thats very helpful, makes sense as well. When I said I was going to get another tank I meant another Zenith to keep as back up. If a tank works well for me I will buy another because Im kinda a klutz or bull in a china shop, I break things... a lot. LOL. Im sticking with the Zenith Pro for now, I just bought 1.6 coils to try out. I wont give up without fully trying every avenue afforded to me. Im stubborn as well. LOL. I also have the GeekVape MTL Z-Tank, it has top airflow, I havent had any leakage problems with that one at all. So Im wondering if the Top airflow has anything to do with that, or maybe Im just lucky?

 

[Z-Lee]

Thanks Z-Lee, thats very helpful, makes sense as well. When I said I was going to get another tank I meant another Zenith to keep as back up. If a tank works well for me I will buy another because Im kinda a klutz or bull in a china shop, I break things... a lot. LOL. Im sticking with the Zenith Pro for now, I just bought 1.6 coils to try out. I wont give up without fully trying every avenue afforded to me. Im stubborn as well. LOL. I also have the GeekVape MTL Z-Tank, it has top airflow, I havent had any leakage problems with that one at all. So Im wondering if the Top airflow has anything to do with that, or maybe Im just lucky?

It definitely has quite a bit to do with it. Top airflow has an opening at the top, it funnels in and then down around the chamber and up through the coil. These tanks are just as susceptible to coil seepage and leaks as bottom airflow however, the juice gets stuck in the bottom bend of the airflow. So what ends up happening is you get a sloppy gurgling sound when you vape instead of leaking which is much less of a mess, but ultimately you still have to fix the seepage/leaking.

The 0.8 ohm Z-coil for RDL and 1.6 ohm Z-coil for MTL have been my favorites so far. You may also want to take a peek at the Zenith II tank - that's one of my favorite MTL/RDL tanks for flavor along with the Uwell Whirl II, and FreeMaX Fireluke 22. If you're well stocked on the Innokin Z-coils, then my recommendation is the Zenith II tank that's going to use all of those coils up.

My 2 .

 

[sunnyskyez]

Your 2 cents are always insightful and welcome. If I could find a 5ml-top fill- MTL tank, low watt coils, I'd buy a couple in a NY second. LOL. I looked at the Zenith II- I dont understand the RDL part, Im old school, I love MTL. Can you explain it? I know the Z-II can use the entire line of Z-coils so I would still want to use the 1.2 or 1.6 low wattage coils. My batts go quick enough on those watts not to mention the liquid as Im a chain vapor. Ever since I got laid off then retired early, I vape way more than I used to when I worked.

 

[Z-Lee]

Your 2 cents are always insightful and welcome. If I could find a 5ml-top fill- MTL tank, low watt coils, I'd buy a couple in a NY second. LOL. I looked at the Zenith II- I dont understand the RDL part, Im old school, I love MTL. Can you explain it? I know the Z-II can use the entire line of Z-coils so I would still want to use the 1.2 or 1.6 low wattage coils. My batts go quick enough on those watts not to mention the liquid as Im a chain vapor. Ever since I got laid off then retired early, I vape way more than I used to when I worked.

The airflow ring can be rotated and opened to the full slot allowing more air through the coil and chimney when you take a puff. Instead of creating suction with your mouth, you directly inhale the vape slowly, much like you would a hookah.

Do you prefer the smaller devices that use smaller batteries? Some single 21700s can still be fairly compact and provide you with over 1.5x the puff time before recharge.

 

[sunnyskyez]

Ive tried the direct to lung and dont like it, Im definitely old school MTL. LOL. Looks like Im finally on board with sub ohm vaping but only as far as 1.2ohm coils. Therefore I will be moving to the 21700 batts and appropriate charger soon. Im not going to give up on my Z-pro though. Thanks again for all your help Z-Lee. Im going to check out your spreadsheet for the 21700's. Have a great day!

 

[Z-Lee]

Ive tried the direct to lung and dont like it, Im definitely old school MTL. LOL. Looks like Im finally on board with sub ohm vaping but only as far as 1.2ohm coils. Therefore I will be moving to the 21700 batts and appropriate charger soon. Im not going to give up on my Z-pro though. Thanks again for all your help Z-Lee. Im going to check out your spreadsheet for the 21700's. Have a great day!

Just to clarify any misunderstandings, "sub-ohm" is a bit misleading. MTL is most often high resistance, low wattage setups. Direct Lung is most often low resistance, high wattage setups. MTL coils used to most often be above 1.0 ohm, which is where "sub-ohm" was coined for low resistance DL builds. However, there are a lot of tanks and coils now that can be vaped in MTL that are below 1.0 ohm resistance; the term "sub-ohm" is most often used in reference to DL vaping.

Hopefully I haven't confused you further, lol.

If you have any questions about the mods on that spreadsheet, don't hesitate to ask!

 

[sunnyskyez]

LOL- You arent confusing at all, in fact you have been very clear, easy to understand and helpful. Its all the terminology that goes with vaping that confuses the heck out of me- lol. Ive been vaping for at least a decade and still am confused with all the terminology. You're solid, keep up the good work with your help, people like me need you.

 

[Territoo]

Here's a glossary of vape terminology.

Beginner’s Guide to Vaping - Glossary

New to Vaping? Check out our Glossary of Vape Terminology! At Ruthless Vapor we strive to provide as much knowledge as possible when it comes to vaping.

www.ruthlessvapor.com

 

[Z-Lee]

LOL- You arent confusing at all, in fact you have been very clear, easy to understand and helpful. Its all the terminology that goes with vaping that confuses the heck out of me- lol. Ive been vaping for at least a decade and still am confused with all the terminology. You're solid, keep up the good work with your help, people like me need you.

No worries! I 100% know what you're talking about in regards to terminology, lol. That's why I generally call "sub ohm" tanks, "coil head" tanks now, and then include the resistance so that people don't automatically assuming you're vaping Direct Lung. Same reason I wish the tiny pod systems would be called "mini-pod" devices, as not to be confused with larger pod systems that use external batteries or larger internal batteries.

Clarity is what's going to help you find what you're looking for the quickest. Always feel free to ask more questions, even if you feel like they're dumb. We were all there at one point.

 

[sunnyskyez]

Thanks Territoo,
I actually understand the easy stuff its mainly the ohms I get confused. But I know Ive got the best dictionary in the world and thats right here at ECF with folks like you.

 

[sunnyskyez]

No worries! I 100% know what you're talking about in regards to terminology, lol. That's why I generally call "sub ohm" tanks, "coil head" tanks now, and then include the resistance so that people don't automatically assuming you're vaping Direct Lung. Same reason I wish the tiny pod systems would be called "mini-pod" devices, as not to be confused with larger pod systems that use external batteries or larger internal batteries.

Clarity is what's going to help you find what you're looking for the quickest. Always feel free to ask more questions, even if you feel like they're dumb. We were all there at one point.

Thanks Z! You are a very patient man and great teacher. Cheers!

 

[Territoo]

Thanks Territoo,
I actually understand the easy stuff its mainly the ohms I get confused. But I know Ive got the best dictionary in the world and thats right here at ECF with folks like you.

How To Calculate Ohm's Law for Safe Vaping

A beginner’s guide to ohm's law for vape and battery safety to help you decipher what’s going on behind the formulas.

vaping360.com

Here is a nice article on Ohm's Law as it applies to vaping. I keep it bookmarked, and if you ever decide to go with a mech mod, it is essential info. The gist of it is that current (I)= voltage (V) ÷ resistance (R) (Ohm's Law) and power (P) = I x V, or rewritten I = P ÷ V. If you substitute for I in Ohm's Law, you get (P÷ V) = (V ÷R). Solve for P by multiplying both sides by V, you get P= V*2/R. (That's V squared).

All of this to say your Power is inversely related to the Resistance. You increase the resistance of your coil, then you have a less powerful vape. You lower the resistance, you have a more powerful vape.

 

[sunnyskyez]

How To Calculate Ohm's Law for Safe Vaping

A beginner’s guide to ohm's law for vape and battery safety to help you decipher what’s going on behind the formulas.

vaping360.com

Here is a nice article on Ohm's Law as it applies to vaping. I keep it bookmarked, and if you ever decide to go with a mech mod, it is essential info. The gist of it is that current (I)= voltage (V) ÷ resistance (R) (Ohm's Law) and power (P) = I x V, or rewritten I = P ÷ V. If you substitute for I in Ohm's Law, you get (P÷ V) = (V ÷R). Solve for P by multiplying both sides by V, you get P= V*2/R. (That's V squared).

All of this to say your Power is inversely related to the Resistance. You increase the resistance of your coil, then you have a less powerful vape. You lower the resistance, you have a more powerful vape.

Thanks Territoo:
I have this article as well, its still all very Greek to me. I wont be moving to mech mods, Im extremely happy with my 2019 original Jackaroo, its perfect for a person like me who is prone to knocking them off tables and still works like new. LOL. I thank you for all of your wonderful advice and time. Have a great day and even better weekend.

 

[smacuser]

Where's the best place to buy coils?

I originally bought them from the Innokin Store, but they're out of the 1.2 ohm.

TIA