Inside the Ego-T B

[Starquake]

Hello

I'm having taste and vapour production trouble with my new Ego-T type Bs so I took one apart and it doesn't look much like Vicky from Cignot's type A on the inside (in her youtube vids) and can't find any type B dissection or maintenance videos to compare to.
There's no separate wick and bridge inside my type B attys, they've just taken some of the wire wool stuff that's wrapped around the coil, made a kind of bridge from either side of the atty with the wire wool, twisted it together and poked it up the centre spike.
Is this normal? I bought them from a retailer listed on the Microcig site btw

I've tried cleaning and rewicking/modding it by using a wick from a clearo doubled up and trimmed so it rests on a bridge over the coil (the original wick) but it still tastes plasticy altho it vapes a little better.

If you have any links to type B dissection/disassembly vids so I can compare or maintenance or mod tips to help clean up the taste and improve the vape production it would be much appreciated.

Thanks

 

[jmlott]

That's definitely not how my type-Bs look. Mine should be genuine Joye and they have the same wick and spike plate as Cignot's video. Same with my type-As as well.

I hope somebody can help you with your model. If not try liberty-flights or myvaporstore to order some good ones.

 

[tj99959]

My understanding is that they were going to make some changes to the type B tank atty, and that a wick made from metal mesh would be one of them. I have not seen the new ones, so I have no idea what they look like.

 

[B4DJ1N64N]

Microcig's ego are not genuine Joyetech. It's just a clone. Their version are different from the genuine ego.

 

[Mezzum]

I use the type B, have been for awhile. The plastic taste, is a combo of your taste buds and your juice. Since I Vape cinnamon, no probes here. The "key" to the ego-t, is tank placement.

1. Feel the sides of the tank, find the "air vents", hold the tank by these convex grooves.
2. Look inside your ego-t Atty, you will see where two sides of the spike assembly touch the side of the Atty, and two sides that do not, a space if you will between the assembly and the sides, this space is the airflow area.
3. Without connecting the battery, line up the air flow grooves on your tank, with the air flow spaces in your Atty and press it in.
4. Now put the Atty with the tank attached, on your battery. The key thing to remember is you must line up the tank with the Atty, NOT the tank and Atty with the battery. The button will prob be in a weird place, it would be near impossible to machine them to always line up.

Doing this right gets it working as designed. Maximum vapor, few if any leaks, no dragging liquid. Hope this helps.

 

[RIMP]

+1 I use the type B LR attys/tanks from cignot and have no problems

 

[ShaunHunting]

isn't the Ego-T the name of the battery, not the atty? I'm confused

 

[RIMP]

The ego T refers to both the batts and attys You can use any 510 atty on any ego batt Use the T attys and tanks on most 510 threaded pv Sometimes need a spacer adapter 510>510 if not using on an ego batt.

 

[Starquake]

Thanks for the replies.
I think you're right, they're knock offs and they've tried to save a few pennies in the wick area.

Tank rotation in relation to the atty makes no difference with these 1s unfortunately. I see exactly what you mean tho and thought it might be a way to alter the airflow and draw, when I was testing them out and trying to get the best performance I could from them.

I'm going to try to get a refund, I think. The plasticy taste worries me too much to use them.

 

[Starquake]

By Jove! I think I've got it

My ultrasonic cleaner arrived on Friday so I've been playing with the attys again and given them a good clean, while cleaning all my other bits n bobs.

The orientation of the spike plate seems to be the key with these tank attys (with metal wicks). The 2 lengths of mesh that come together to form the wick need to be in the centre of the cut out on the underside of the spike plate to work correctly.
After a good clean and adjusting the spike plate position the performance of mine has been transformed
I think the ones that weren't wicking properly came out of the factory with the spike plate in the wrong position, squashing the wick and strangling the flow to the coil.

 

[Starquake]

I meant to add that I had a Type A, that was suffering the same symptoms, that I have fixed by lining up the spike plate correctly too.

So if you think you've got a dud Tank atty with a metal wick, it's worth popping off the spike plate to make sure it's aligned correctly.