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ilporcupine

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For myself it means the device fires fast and at full wattage on a regulated or VV.
Skunk was referencing the difference between Pulse and tube mod. Mechanically switched devices.
An ask for clarification, here, is going to sound like I am being argumentative, and that isn't my intent. I'll take it up on the technical threads, sometime. They will enjoy thrashing it out, no doubt! :D:D:D
 

Skunk!

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I did eventually deduce it

Indulge a poor tootle-puffer, if you would...
What does it mean to 'hit harder'? I keep seeing that, and I am not sure of the meaning. Outside my level of experience, as I am a low wattage guy.
There are a few things in mechmods that can affect the amount of power delivered to the coils. Materials, connections, and workmanship are the main ones. In a tube mech the current passes through the body of the mod. Many tube mechanicals are made out of copper for conductivity, some are made of silver which is a better conductor but those mods are very expensive. The quality of the threading is a big factor as well. A device with well machined "buttery smooth" threads will lose less voltage at the connections because good contact is made between all the threads. The reason for the popularity of fauxbrid tube mechs is that there is voltage drop in the double screw 510 pins. So with a direct battery connection there is no voltage drop in that connection. A good tube mod will have a minimal amount of parts and connections. I try to find ones that have 5 parts (tube included) and made of solid copper. If you put the same atty on a high quality copper mech then a mediocre stainless one you will see a noticable difference. Long story short, a hard hitting device will deliver the closest to the wattage stated in the ohms law calculator.
 

ilporcupine

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If you put the same atty on a high quality copper mech then a mediocre stainless one you will see a noticable difference.
Skunk, I come at this from an electrical background. Conductivity, ampacity, resistance, are not unfamiliar concepts to me. These I knew about long before vaping was invented.
What I am looking for is what that difference consists of, in terms of the 'user experience'. What specifically are you noticing? Does that make sense?
What does it do to the 'vape'?
 
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Necrospecter

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My package shows silver. I'm waiting for the kiddo to show up, he can help. LOL. He likes that stuff, and I'm extra tremor-y for a variety of reasons today.

We are in FULL MONSOON.

Anna

Yeah mine showed silver too was surprised when I opened it not sure how good that is for people who order them and go for a color.
 
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Skunk!

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Skunk, I come at this from an electrical background. Conductivity, ampacity, resistance, are not unfamiliar concepts to me. These I knew about long before vaping was invented.
What I am looking for is what that difference consists of, in terms of the 'user experience'. What specifically are you noticing? Does that make sense?
What does it do to the 'vape'?
It would kind of be the same as turning up the wattage on a regulated device. Even on a TP setup, if you were trying to build for a specific wattage it would make your calculations more accurate. You would be getting as close to an actual 3.7 volts to the coils. Mechanicals don't tend to do the best with high resistance, so voltage drop may be even more important on a TP setup. I have never really built for high resistance so I am not sure. There is a big difference in vapor production between my hybrid copper mods and my 510 pinned stainless one with the same build in the same atty. The copper ones look like a small explosion while the stainless has 2 streams coming off the coils
 

Skunk!

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ilporcupine

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There is a big difference in vapor production between my hybrid copper mods and my 510 pinned stainless one with the same build in the same atty
So, the 'hard hit' is mostly noticed as an increase in vapor production, vs. time, correct? I have less comprehension of 'hard hitting' as a descriptive term, because I haven't experienced it myself. I am comfortable with technical terms,however. Thanks! ( Your comparison between copper and stainless mods would be more representative, if you compared a hybrid CU device to a hybrid SS device. Or 510 types for both. That is a lot of added points of resistance.)
EDIT: All of this seems less important for tootlers, just because you are not maximizing the amount of vapor in a given time period, si?
 
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Skunk!

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So, the 'hard hit' is mostly noticed as an increase in vapor production, vs. time, correct? I have less comprehension of 'hard hitting' as a descriptive term, because I haven't experienced it myself. I am comfortable with technical terms,however. Thanks! ( Your comparison between copper and stainless mods would be more representative, if you compared a hybrid CU device to a hybrid SS device. Or 510 types for both. That is a lot of added points of resistance.)
EDIT: All of this seems less important for tootlers, just because you are not maximizing the amount of vapor in a given time period, si?
Pretty much boils down to the best bang for your buck. May actually be more important to tootlers. The difference of a couple watts when you are in the 70-80W range isn't as noticable as it is at 10-20W and the mod is struggling to push through high resistance.
 

ilporcupine

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Pretty much boils down to the best bang for your buck. May actually be more important to tootlers. The difference of a couple watts when you are in the 70-80W range isn't as noticable as it is at 10-20W and the mod is struggling to push through high resistance.
When you lower the current, you lower the voltage drop.
That's why the little pens work. Just won't last as long. Or make big clouds!
 
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Skunk!

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When you lower the current, you lower the voltage drop.
True. And thinner wire used in higher resistance builds heats up quicker. I have never been a Tootler so I am not positive how the experience is or how to improve it. The reason I got into mechanical mods in the first place is that the only regulated devices available back in the day topped out at 15 watts. If the new high power devices were available then' I would probably never have gotten into mechanical mods.
 

ilporcupine

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True. And thinner wire used in higher resistance builds heats up quicker. I have never been a Tootler so I am not positive how the experience is or how to improve it. The reason I got into mechanical mods in the first place is that the only regulated devices available back in the day topped out at 15 watts. If the new high power devices were available then' I would probably never have gotten into mechanical mods.
I'm right there with you. If I needed more vapor to satisfy me, I would be on your path. Less vapor, higher nic. is working for me, but I don't need the feel of 'big' vapor. I'm dammed if I know why, either, as I was a 'big smoke' smoker!
EDIT- I do know one thing. Without the 'big menthol' I use, it is less satisfying to Tootle. Lacking that, I might be looking for a bigger vapor experience.
 

Skunk!

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I'm right there with you. If I needed more vapor to satisfy me, I would be on your path. Less vapor, higher nic. is working for me, but I don't need the feel of 'big' vapor. I'm dammed if I know why, either, as I was a 'big smoke' smoker!
EDIT- I do know one thing. Without the 'big menthol' I use, it is less satisfying to Tootle. Lacking that, I might be looking for a bigger vapor experience.
Everybody has different tastes. I don't like throat hit at all. I started at 18mg on an ego t with a protank and 2.4 ohm coils. I am not so much into clouds I just like to get enough vapor in a 1 or 2 second pull. I usually try to build at 30 to 40 watts but sometimes go big but I only do that on my regulated mods. I have done some ridiculous build and my cloud builds on regulated devices are usually above .5 ohms. I never understood why clouds bros build low on regulated. I build for surface area and turn up the power if I want it stronger. Low builds are for making wattage from a fixed voltage (mechanical mods). I dont pay much attention to resistance with VW mods, nice thing is you really don't have to.
 
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