Introducing Futura - The Modular DNA 20 APV by NexgenVapor[ISSUE]
- Thread starter LeftCoastVaper
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I tend to agree, the Futura I received looks pretty perfect to me. If I really have to nick pick, the inner part that has the serial engraving is quite scratch. The bottom flat cap also looks a bit less than perfect and don't quite like the plastic housing for the rocker.
Threading is perfect, replaced the 510 screw to the hex, initially feels bit tight screw the hex down, but once its in I guess its all set.
With my Russian, I think 10 - 11 watts is the sweet spot, so I don't really need to 30w but the power lock feature is tempting.
Threading is perfect, replaced the 510 screw to the hex, initially feels bit tight screw the hex down, but once its in I guess its all set.
With my Russian, I think 10 - 11 watts is the sweet spot, so I don't really need to 30w but the power lock feature is tempting.
Yah man, are your AW IMRs older? are you vaping like a chimney? I get a whole day out of my AW IMR 18650 2000mah's. When they aren't holding a charge for more than 4 hours with average power level vaping, I'd say it's time to replace them..
Yeah, I am a heavy vapor but surely not enough so to make such a huge bettery use difference with all of you. I am rotating 6 different batteries but they are all probably at least a year old. I will order a new batch and see if that helps me. The odd thing is I am getting a full day vaping with the same batteries using any of my provaris..
I would guess that you are getting some volt loss going through the futura tube to the DNA20, and it is cutting you off earlier then when the actual battery needs to be cut off at.
The DNA20 itself will use a bit more power itself to do the regulation (as compared to the simple circuit in the Provari), but not that much.
Maybe make sure all the contacts and threads are nice and clean, and have a LIGHT coating of noalox.
What are the voltages of the batteries when they will no longer fire in your Futura? Like measured with a multimeter out of the mod.
Last edited:
All my connections are super clean and threads are coated in nolax. For comparison I put in a 18490/ 1100 mAh battery last night. I just passed the 4 hour point and my power indicator is showing about 30% left to go. So, maybe it has a lot to do with my 18650's needing to be replaced. I wonder if always using a sealed 801/510 connector between the device and my carto affects the power at all? I don't have a multimeter to check actual battery power.
Oh if you're going off the battery indicator I wouldn't call that completely accurate. I vape my AW IMR 18650s until the DNA20 starts to do the ON / OFF / ON / OFF etc. etc. thing while holding the fire button, then I pop a charged one in.
Save power in STEALTH mode was mentioned before by williebb and I have have noticed that battery life is much better when doing this (with my WAE DNA20 since my Futura has still not arrived -> hopefully soon).
Other than that clean contacts, new batteries, lower resistance coil, lower power setting is about all you can do I guess. Good luck.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Other than that clean contacts, new batteries, lower resistance coil, lower power setting is about all you can do I guess. Good luck.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Technicaly higher resistance coils -> Higer voltages -> lower amps -> lower power losses...
490Aw, been waping for 9.5wats for 6h, and got ~50% on the indicator and 3,7v measured by fluke. in juice its ~3/4 of kayfuns tank.
Technicaly higher resistance coils -> Higer voltages -> lower amps -> lower power losses...
490Aw, been waping for 9.5wats for 6h, and got ~50% on the indicator and 3,7v measured by fluke. in juice its ~3/4 of kayfuns tank.
So you're saying a 3 ohm coil will consume less battery than a 1.2 ohm coil for the same power setting? I would have thought that stepping the voltage up (via the internal transformer) to get the same power level say 10W for the resistances above, (voltage required would be 5.5V and 3.5V respectively) that the battery would be consumed more quickly when running the 3 ohm coil @ 10W. Interesting.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Given that the battery is a power source with a fixed voltage and extra current is drawn out of the battery to be converted to additional voltage, plus there are inefficiencies that cause power to be converted to heat during the voltage step-up conversion, I find the concept of a higher voltage/lower current being less draining than lower voltage/higher current at the same power setting to be completely illogical.
I agree, "interesting", is a good way of expressing a feeling about an illogical opinion stated as fact.
I should have said "Innnnnnnnnnteresting" to convey how I really felt.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thats a bit bad example, since for 10w the 1.2ohm coil would only take 3.2volts...
The effiency of the converter stays prettymuch the same if it work on the lowest level, or "full throtle", but as the voltages gets higher, the powerlosses gets smaller, and the effiency increases...
so baseline: 3ohm and 6ohm coil drain exaly same ammount of power from the battery itself, when vaping at 10wats. 6ohm does it slighty more effienty, causing more of the power reaching the actual coil.
Last edited:
Huh?
So according this if I were to build a 4 ohm coil, set the DNA20 to 16W for which it would output 8V and this would be a more electrically efficient use of battery charge than the 1.2 ohm setup above. Innnnteresting.
See this diagram and consider not the current on the output leg, but the current on the input side Ig in the case of what we are referring to is the current taken from the battery.
Now then take into account efficiency of the power conversion across the transformer and I'm still struggling to see your point.
Source: http://ecee.colorado.edu/~ecen5797/course_material/Ch3handouts.pdf
One could argue (mathematically, assuming an ideal system, 100% efficient) that the battery drain is irrespective of the resistance of the coil and based only upon the power setting. However your statement that the higher resistance consumes less battery (charge) because the current is lower essentially and is absolutely incorrect.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
So according this if I were to build a 4 ohm coil, set the DNA20 to 16W for which it would output 8V and this would be a more electrically efficient use of battery charge than the 1.2 ohm setup above. Innnnteresting.
See this diagram and consider not the current on the output leg, but the current on the input side Ig in the case of what we are referring to is the current taken from the battery.
Now then take into account efficiency of the power conversion across the transformer and I'm still struggling to see your point.
Source: http://ecee.colorado.edu/~ecen5797/course_material/Ch3handouts.pdf
One could argue (mathematically, assuming an ideal system, 100% efficient) that the battery drain is irrespective of the resistance of the coil and based only upon the power setting. However your statement that the higher resistance consumes less battery (charge) because the current is lower essentially and is absolutely incorrect.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Huh?
So according this if I were to build a 4 ohm coil, set the DNA20 to 16W for which it would output 8V and this would be a more electrically efficient use of battery charge than the 1.2 ohm setup above. Innnnteresting.
See this diagram and consider not the current on the output leg, but the current on the input side Ig in the case of what we are referring to is the current taken from the battery.
Now then take into account efficiency of the power conversion across the transformer and I'm still struggling to see your point.
Source: http://ecee.colorado.edu/~ecen5797/course_material/Ch3handouts.pdf
One could argue (mathematically, assuming an ideal system, 100% efficient) that the battery drain is irrespective of the resistance of the coil and based only upon the power setting. However your statement that the higher resistance consumes less battery (charge) because the current is lower essentially and is absolutely incorrect.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I realy dont see your point. I did not say higher ohms would use less current, i said using higher voltages cause less wastage. If you put a 3ohm coil or 10ohm coil and you heat it whit 10wats, the consuption from the battery is equal to 10w. If it would use less currency to heat lower resistance coil by 10w then you would have invented perpetual motion machine.
But when you vape whit higher voltage, the wastage gets smaller, and more of those Amps actualy heat the coil.
The power consumption of the dc-dc converter is peanuts comparing that 3,3Amps youre draining from the battery when vaping the 1.2ohm coil.
Still can't believe I've waited almost 4months and got a 22mm top cap that's 21mm.
To be fair Jon has responded to emails and offered a refund. I asked if it was normal for the top caps to be under 22mm. His reply was "I don't know what to say, it's just how they are made"
Should mention however that the futura is working brilliantly, fires every time, the cerakote coating is great, the adjustable pin works well and everything sits flush, nice and light... Really good!... It's just that top cap!
To be fair Jon has responded to emails and offered a refund. I asked if it was normal for the top caps to be under 22mm. His reply was "I don't know what to say, it's just how they are made"
Should mention however that the futura is working brilliantly, fires every time, the cerakote coating is great, the adjustable pin works well and everything sits flush, nice and light... Really good!... It's just that top cap!
Attachments
Last edited:
will he take it back and swap in the proper 22mm cap? they do exist. that's to bad, I feel for you i'd be gutted.Still can't believe I've waited almost 4months and got a 22mm top cap that's 21mm.
To be fair Jon has responded to emails and offered a refund. I asked if it was normal for the top caps to be under 22mm. His reply was "I don't know what to say, it's just how they are made"
Should mention however that the futura is working brilliantly, fires every time, the cerakote coating is great, the adjustable pin works well and everything sits flush, nice and light... Really good!... It's just that top cap!
the theory does not work with regulated mods that have to step up/down and convert.
the theory WAS very logical and correct when dealing with mechanical devices in a time regulated mods were far and few. as with most things around here when old concepts meet new tech what was and what is often times gets blended together but does not hold true for the current state of affairs.
AND as for the DNA30 option if you back track enough you will see that I asked in this thread about the possibilities of seeing a 30 version or maybe an upgrade option right after the ........ report, Jon told me/us directly he talked to Brandon at evolv and said there is no such thing and to drop it, now having used that information as fact and then scraping egg off my face for sounding like an idiot I wouldn't believe anything they say.
just so I dont get flamed I am sorry and not trying to start anything, but man a little more honesty and transparency with your customers would do wonders ........................................................ no denying the mod is nice, the company is still a mess though...
Last edited:
so, if a guy was vaping at say 10 watts regulated and wanted to get the most out of his battery, which would be better a, 3ohm or 1.5 ohm coil? I personally shoot for 2ohm on a regulated device...
- Status
Similar threads
