I understand there are PEEK insulators out there like this. But I'm not sure if it'll fit. Have to try it and if not, will have to make my own. Some of you seem to have found off the shelf PEEK insulators that fits, if so, let me know so I can provide everyone with some.
Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)
- Thread starter paulw2014
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Yes please - if someone found one let me know. My MyMod is grounded, because it shorted, and I CAN NOT get another insulator on the pin. I've tried everywhich way, spent a lot of time on it, gave up.
I just ordered a BF Sapor atty for mine yesterday, haven't really messed with the mod otherwise other than taking it apart N putting it back together again. But I'm looking forward to getting the PEEK insulators so I can fire up the mod and have less worry about blowing fuses. It sounds like it should be a nice vape from the positive reviews I've read here.
Sent from Doomite Central!
Sent from Doomite Central!
You don't want to put the insulator on the pin you want to PLACE IT IN the 510 threaded side of the hole FIRST then slide the pin through.
How are you trying to replace the grommet/insulator ?? Someone... I forget their name gave some great advice and litterally saved me alot of time and aggravation..... I was trying tweezers, etc with negative results.....
Take the 510 out of the mod unscrew that side set screw (flat head) .... take the 510 pin out and using that same pin itself flip the 510 over push the old grommet out remember to place the new grommet into the top where the threads are (not the Grooved side) and take that 510 pin turn it upside down using the FLANGED SIDE drop insulator in somewhat center it and lightly pushing down the grommet.... sometimes one side will go in first then just push the other side in until it bottoms out and is flush ...
But the KEY is using the FLANGED SIDE of the 510 Pin itself to work it in. Then replace 510 replace the set screw in place tighten..... leave the peek screws loose until you screw your atty down.... once you have it positioned and its making contact then tighten the peek screws attach tube and bottle and you should be set!!! Let me know if you get what I'm talking about? After the first time you get it in it gets easier after that (matter of seconds after first time) !
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Yeah - I didn't mean on the pin (though I tried that too).
I do understand - it's this part
somewhat center it and lightly push the grommet down sometimes one side will go in first then just push the other side until it bottoms out and is flush
that simply will not work for me. One side will NOT go in, not without serious abuse.
And any attempt to replace the pin pushes the thing out - or on other tries, attempting to USE the pin to press in from the top, the insulator refuses to seat - it will "ride up" over the fat pin end before going into the hole...
I do understand - it's this part
somewhat center it and lightly push the grommet down sometimes one side will go in first then just push the other side until it bottoms out and is flush
that simply will not work for me. One side will NOT go in, not without serious abuse.
And any attempt to replace the pin pushes the thing out - or on other tries, attempting to USE the pin to press in from the top, the insulator refuses to seat - it will "ride up" over the fat pin end before going into the hole...
It can't ride up the fat pin?? The 510 pin and the grommet when setting it up is going to be flange to flange..... The flange part of the 510 pin and the flanged part of the grommet.... Get it? Push lightly down maybe use a lil spit... I dunno I wish I could post a video.... Never tried it.
Your pushing the grommet flange to 510 pin flange..... There's no where for it to ride up? The 510 pin should still be in your hand after you seat the grommet .... Then you put the pin into the 510 with the grommet already seated.... Again spit or PG vg works because if its dry it might tear?
the easiest way to put new one in is to make sure its lubricated real well. I actually spit on mine or you can use plain vg . drop the insulator in the hole after removing old and pin and see if you have a clicker type pen and use that to work the insulator into place, br careful not to tear it. once you get it in replace pin and put atty you are going to use on, screw down slowly until it makes contact and you see pin move inside a little, then snug up nylon screws on each side of strap but dont overtighten or they break. if atty sits too high then you may have to use other 510 housing sent. after I did the 1st one I unscrewed atty and checked for continuaty with ohm meter between pos and case to make sure i didnt break new insulator. hope this helps.
I meant when I gave up and tried other ways.
I have tried what you're describing. I can not get it seated. Period. I've spent like an hour pushing the friggin little things this way and that, with the pin and with other implements, straight, crooked, and bent, and they will not seat.
I have tried what you're describing. I can not get it seated. Period. I've spent like an hour pushing the friggin little things this way and that, with the pin and with other implements, straight, crooked, and bent, and they will not seat.
I've tried a pen technique didn't work for me..... Flange (pin) to flange (grommet) works because there's very little room for the flange of the pin to move the grommet around... The key is to set the 510 on a table align the grommet in the center as much as you can and come on top of it with the equally leveled flanged pin (this is soo easy when you do it once) ...... but if the pen works for you awesome! **I was pulling my hair out until someone posted his/this way!
Lmao.....not at you.....Anyway - I DO appreciate the help -
I've just spent too much time with it. It's OK...I have other devices, I will wait for a "stiff" insulator...
you do realize you still gonna have to get the new one seated right and that's gonna be stiffer :O...... Jk jk sorry I know it could be aggravating. It's a matter of slight pushes one side then the other (but you have to get it pretty much centered before you start) it'll pop right in I promise.
TRAIN I just made a video... IT took 3 minutes not bragging just trying to help..... As soon as I went to upload ... Tapatalk UNFORTUNATELY AND conveniently stopped??!! 3 times!! Whatever.....my 510 pin is in my mod so I used the bottle with the tube attached that Paul provided and this Worked just as good because it's the same kind of rubber and similar in Diameter as the rubber grommet.... The tube kept it centered 3 or 4 pushes and it popped in.
Post to youtube and then post the link here.
Or do it through the forum in a browser.
I'd never upload a video through TT.
I don't even do pics with TT.
the neg contact is an issue for me. i don't want to tear up batteries to be able to use this.
i did find a peek?? insulator that i robbed from some other tank - don't remember which one - maybe one of the old small kanger?? replaceable coil ones) and did what Yiorgo suggested. so far so good, but i am using the old gray panasonic batteries, because they have the *bare bottom*. i much prefer my LGs for the vapes - so yeh, i want to see that neg contact centered ... somehow.
Did you try the spare screw in the unused hole?
Obviously not a great fix, but no need to cut the battery wrappers.
A copper or brass screw would be better, but the other you already have.
I don't recall any of the small tanks using PEEK. I recall silicone or rubber, but nothing hard like PEEK.
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I found brass 4-40 x 3/8 flat top machine screws at home depot couldn't find m3 in brass or copper but the 4-40 fits and doesn't mess up the threads.
I would have used inch sizes everywhere. Leave the metric stuff for only the stuff with no choice (like the 510 thread).
Makes it easier to find parts locally, at least in the States.
dunno if it is peek, that's why i used the ??. it is a light tan grommet/insulator similar to the pics posted on this thread by Train2.
i'll give the screw a try. thanks.
That's probably the rubber one. They didn't handle heat well and would burn causing off flavors. They also get stiff from heat/age and change color.
Look back in the thread for pics of the spare screw used for the battery contact if you need clarification.
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