Seems like a sensible solution for anyone..now if I can uncheck the procrastinate button that would be great
Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)
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So...I have pretty much solved the "door won't close".
I sanded the white delrin curvy strip just a bit thinner. That and I loosened the OTHER magnet screw a half-turn. And now it closes. Might have benefited from a bottom magnet...but hey, it closes now, and stays closed.
I am using the extra screw for a negative battery connection.
I WILL say - that really threw me off - I was thinking either I mutilate a battery wrap, and am stuck with dedicated batteries...or else I bypass the fuse. But it's not bypassing the fuse - just took me a minute.
Anyway - I WOULD be comfortable without a fuse - I have never dropped a spring running Reo's for 2 years (had one hard short - but actually caught it fast enough to not drop the spring). EXCEPT for all the initial shorting issues people had with the 510! That's the worst possible combination of issues - I bypass the fuse and then short my 510? But I've had no trouble with the 510.
I've thrown 3 atties on, and they all screwed snug, with the o-ring pretty much filling the gap.
I HATE an air gap - but I'm OK with an O-RING gap. LOL. We all have our little quirks, all right? That's mine. I've ditched atties because of air gap.
I will repeat - it's an awesome firing button!
And I'll add - the 510 does have what seems to be a rock-solid tube setup: squonking is flawless, and after pumping a bottle through it, that oring atop the 510 was still dry.
I would be interested in any other fixes, options, or hack to the negative connection that would "hold" the battery in place - spring or otherwise. I'll sacrifice a little voltage if necessary, but maybe it's not necessary? Perhaps a springy little connector leaf held in by that same spare screw?
I sanded the white delrin curvy strip just a bit thinner. That and I loosened the OTHER magnet screw a half-turn. And now it closes. Might have benefited from a bottom magnet...but hey, it closes now, and stays closed.
I am using the extra screw for a negative battery connection.
I WILL say - that really threw me off - I was thinking either I mutilate a battery wrap, and am stuck with dedicated batteries...or else I bypass the fuse. But it's not bypassing the fuse - just took me a minute.
Anyway - I WOULD be comfortable without a fuse - I have never dropped a spring running Reo's for 2 years (had one hard short - but actually caught it fast enough to not drop the spring). EXCEPT for all the initial shorting issues people had with the 510! That's the worst possible combination of issues - I bypass the fuse and then short my 510? But I've had no trouble with the 510.
I've thrown 3 atties on, and they all screwed snug, with the o-ring pretty much filling the gap.
I HATE an air gap - but I'm OK with an O-RING gap. LOL. We all have our little quirks, all right? That's mine. I've ditched atties because of air gap.
I will repeat - it's an awesome firing button!
And I'll add - the 510 does have what seems to be a rock-solid tube setup: squonking is flawless, and after pumping a bottle through it, that oring atop the 510 was still dry.
I would be interested in any other fixes, options, or hack to the negative connection that would "hold" the battery in place - spring or otherwise. I'll sacrifice a little voltage if necessary, but maybe it's not necessary? Perhaps a springy little connector leaf held in by that same spare screw?
So the thing with the mod is this:
Overall the general consensus is that it was a good mod for the price but needs a bit of improvement, specifically the negative contact and the 510.
I have an easy fix for the negative contact that I've yet to try. Kinda swamped this week. Will let you guys know in a few days.
The 510 is harder, it's going to take some thoughts. A few of you have offered suggestions and I haven't had the time to really digest them. In addition to work, I'm also trying to get the "other" mod made by the end of July. I wanna have my suppliers start making parts for the other mod before I concentrate on the Mymod. I'll probably start thinking about it more next week, after I've ordered the parts for the "other" mod. But off the top of my head, I think the easiest and cheapest solution (one that I know for sure can be done) is to offer solid 510 insulation like Delrin or PEEK. That'll at least prevent the insulation from being destroyed by over tightening the atty.
That way everything can be resolved by a few bucks.
I promised a few of you that I'll send stuff (like springs/magnets). I'll do that after I figure out the negative contact thing in a few days.
Overall the general consensus is that it was a good mod for the price but needs a bit of improvement, specifically the negative contact and the 510.
I have an easy fix for the negative contact that I've yet to try. Kinda swamped this week. Will let you guys know in a few days.
The 510 is harder, it's going to take some thoughts. A few of you have offered suggestions and I haven't had the time to really digest them. In addition to work, I'm also trying to get the "other" mod made by the end of July. I wanna have my suppliers start making parts for the other mod before I concentrate on the Mymod. I'll probably start thinking about it more next week, after I've ordered the parts for the "other" mod. But off the top of my head, I think the easiest and cheapest solution (one that I know for sure can be done) is to offer solid 510 insulation like Delrin or PEEK. That'll at least prevent the insulation from being destroyed by over tightening the atty.
That way everything can be resolved by a few bucks.
I promised a few of you that I'll send stuff (like springs/magnets). I'll do that after I figure out the negative contact thing in a few days.
I haven't tried it, but my thought on the battery contact is this:
You know that extra screw that people place in the extra threaded hole in the negative plate? Well, that screw is sitting loose. I'm thinking of placing a nut or a few suitable washers to fill up the space so that the screw can tighten. It's a M3 screw. But any nut or washer cannot touch the door, otherwise you bypass the fuse if the door conducts. Have to check out the hardware store.
Then, in addition to the nuts/washers, place a small piece of springy thing in between the screw and the nuts, so the battery will get pressured instead of sitting loose. Just a small pressure is enough. When you press the fire button, you will push the battery to contact the screw anyway so the voltage drop characteristic of any springy piece of metal you place doesn't matter.
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Ok I'm by no means an expert on bf 510's but I do own a few mods that use them. I can tell you from experience that FD bf are less then stellar. Ask anyone that has used them for any period of time. The ones that actually work longterm have been heavily modified. As to the new VT 510's I suspect they will be much better. They were designed by a couple of guys that I highly respect and have probably as much experience with bf assemblies as anyone on this forum. It took over a year of testing and tweeking until they were ready for market release. And they had a very workable base model to start with
If I can ever get Paul's shell threaded I'll find out how it works for my stuff
I was ordering other stuff and grabbed one just because. At the price it was worth a look.
I'll give the VT a try too. I just didn't need anything from them yet.
I have.
Relentlessly.
It's why I'm not liking his posts.
Not that I don't agree with his points... or at least some of them... depending on which posts.
Just in this case it's more tasteful to make your case, state it once and let sleeping dogs lie.
Surely it's torturous for Paul.
I have to say though. Often Mike takes it well and moves on quickly.
I believe it to be a simple character flaw he's probably dealt with by making up for it with character traits and mannerisms in real life that don't convey in text.
I suffer from a similar character flaw in that I'm entirely too blunt and rough around the edges in conversation.
Though, if you're not overly sensitive you may never notice in casual conversation.
But in text form, it's often hard to take any other way but insulting or attacking.
All I can offer is an apology for those that misread me... which is easy to do.
Tapatyped
If I can ever get Paul's shell threaded I'll find out how it works for my stuff
I was ordering other stuff and grabbed one just because. At the price it was worth a look.
I'll give the VT a try too. I just didn't need anything from them yet.
I'm one of the 510 testers, don't bother with the FDV, we only used it cause it was the easiest 510 to adapt to squonking.
FDV added BF capabilities well after we did, and from the V3 to the V5, they all sucked. That's why we stayed with a modded FDV classic instead.
The VT is the way to go now, as it uses our basic screw type pin design, but replaces the FDV derlin insulator with Peek
While we are talking about insulators. What insulator material do you prefer in atties? PEEK? Silicone? or doesn't matter? both are heat resistant.
Don't even see how silicon is even in the discussion,
Both Delrin and Peek are good, both are temp resistant, Peek is harder, delrin is more malleable
Both Delrin and Peek are good, both are temp resistant, Peek is harder, delrin is more malleable
Peek is more heat resistant, I look for that when considering a new atty and would consider it a plus for a 510.
so im gonna try the VT 510 in my dna200 fdv squonkbox and just using a ring terminal on the + wire and two nuts on the squonk pin....that should be ok for the pos wire comming off the dna200?...i hope.just have to get a small enuff ring terminal to fit the lil nuts...lol.that sounds funny as hell...lol.
Been using that setup on a bunch of adjustable 510 prototypes for months
after lookin at how the vt 510 is setup...duh it the way it was setup to use.i just hadnt used a vt setup b4.i messed some more with the fdv v5 and its not leaking anymore but
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I'd prefer PEEK as well.
I've really been enjoying this mod. I modded the neg connection, swapped out the 510, and it's hitting like Gilgamesh on a good night. I've had no more problems since I dealt with those two issues. But then I enjoy problem-solving.
Actually, I think it's a pretty good value. Doing a few mods seems a pretty reasonable trade-off for the price.
You swapped to the deeper 510 Paul sent or something else?
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