Introducing myself to Mech Mods

[Baditude]

Hey thank you, the mod I have purchased actually has a lock on the bottom fire button, and I have looked at those links before, they were really helpful but I am still blotchy in terms of ohms law/ resistance I would say.

Good to know. However, remember that you have to remember to lock the fire button every time or that safety feature is worthless. This is why I prefer recessed side-fire buttons in my mechanicals.

Recessed side fire button of a Silver Bullet

Are there any tops that you would suggest? And are these Efest purple batteries okay for this kind of mod?

I would recommend a higher end clearomizer for a beginner, over a rebuildable tank or dripper. Much easier for a beginner with so much else to learn. Good to have as a backup device for after you finally get into rebuilding your own coils, too. The Aspire Nautilus is a popular high end clearomizer. They use factory-made replaceable coils.

After researching and you feel you're ready to rebuild, I'd recommend an inexpensive rebuildable drip atomizer, some 28 gauge kanthal wire, and the below tools.

Inexpensive Mechanical Mod & RDA for a Beginning Vaper

Information Resources for Your First RBA

Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)

The Purple Efest batteries are fine, just know that they are generally more expensive than the original cells just for a pretty purple wrapper, and that they over-rate their specs.

 

[hazefordays]

Hmm.. I think there's some confusion.

What's happening when you hit the fire button with a build in there is you're essentially shorting the battery over the wire (your build). The wire heats up, which then (assuming it's wicked) heats up your e-liquid and gives you delicious, nicotine-rich steam.

What determines how quickly the wire heats up is the resistance. Obviously, less resistance = electricity passes through it easier = battery is able to dump higher wattages (amperage) through your wire.

Additionally, you might be better of with some 30 gauge, as a 14-wrap build is somewhat hard to properly line up in front of the airflow, assuming you have a wide enough airflow to even accommodate a long surface-area build like that. Additionally, given that you're hitting it on a mech mod, it may take a while for it to actually generate vapor.

30 gauge 7-wrap 1.8 ohm dual coil sounds like a nice vape to me.

Do you think the Ghost v2 RDA is suitable for this build? And is there anyway to get a nice vape from single coil 28 gauge? Forgive me, I know that dual coil builds are not the hardest things ever but I am slightly sceptical due to my lack of experience.

 

[hazefordays]

Good to know. However, remember that you have to remember to lock the fire button every time or that safety feature is worthless. This is why I prefer recessed side-fire buttons in my mechanicals.

Recessed side fire button of a Silver Bullet

I would recommend a higher end clearomizer for a beginner, over a rebuildable tank or dripper. Much easier for a beginner with so much else to learn. Good to have as a backup device for after you finally get into rebuilding your own coils, too. The Aspire Nautilus is a popular high end clearomizer. They use factory-made replaceable coils.

After researching and you feel you're ready to rebuild, I'd recommend an inexpensive rebuildable drip atomizer, some 28 gauge kanthal wire, and the below tools.

Inexpensive Mechanical Mod & RDA for a Beginning Vaper

Information Resources for Your First RBA

Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)

The Purple Efest batteries are fine, just know that they are generally more expensive than the original cells just for a pretty purple wrapper, and that they over-rate their specs.

The thought of there being a beginners option, or perhaps just an easier route to succeful safe vaping is very settling. I apologise for being a pest. And btw the Ohms Law for Dummies link was pretty damn good, which i thought was kind of funny. Thank you for linking it, your advice has really helped.

Just regarding your comment about the Efest purple batteries, are they any safer than Sony's VCT4's and is the performance just the same?

Will using a clearomiser involve using a lower amp battery? (Surprisingly, I also am inexperienced with clearomizers too) thanks again.

 

[hazefordays]

Good to know. However, remember that you have to remember to lock the fire button every time or that safety feature is worthless. This is why I prefer recessed side-fire buttons in my mechanicals.

Recessed side fire button of a Silver Bullet

I would recommend a higher end clearomizer for a beginner, over a rebuildable tank or dripper. Much easier for a beginner with so much else to learn. Good to have as a backup device for after you finally get into rebuilding your own coils, too. The Aspire Nautilus is a popular high end clearomizer. They use factory-made replaceable coils.

After researching and you feel you're ready to rebuild, I'd recommend an inexpensive rebuildable drip atomizer, some 28 gauge kanthal wire, and the below tools.

Inexpensive Mechanical Mod & RDA for a Beginning Vaper

Information Resources for Your First RBA

Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)

The Purple Efest batteries are fine, just know that they are generally more expensive than the original cells just for a pretty purple wrapper, and that they over-rate their specs.

Are tanks (clearomizers) compatible with mech mods?

 

[Baditude]

Just regarding your comment about the Efest purple batteries, are they any safer than Sony's VCT4's and is the performance just the same?

Will using a clearomiser involve using a lower amp battery? (Surprisingly, I also am inexperienced with clearomizers too) thanks again.

Efest batteries are not safer than Sony VTC4's. In fact, the purple 2100mah 30 amp Efest is a re-wrapped Sony VTC4 cell inside -- same battery cell. Efest just rewrapped Sony's cell and called it their battery.

A clearomizer can use any IMR battery as their ohm range is generally in the 1 - 3 ohm range. The ohm of the coil determines how many amps will be pulled from the battery. Clearomizers are the most simple juice delivery device for a beginner to learn on. Just fill it, prime it, and vape. Replace the coil when the flavor subsides or tastes burnt. This simplicity has its drawbacks.

Rebuildable atomizers (RBA, RTA, RDA) are more complex and advanced and not generally for beginners, but offer the best flavor and vapor production for those willing to research on their use.

Proper Terminology: Juice Delivery Devices

And to answer the question above, yes you can use a clearomizer with a mechanical mod.

 

[hazefordays]

Efest batteries are not safer than Sony VTC4's. In fact, the purple 2100mah 40 amp Efest is a re-wrapped Sony VTC4 cell inside -- same battery cell. Efest just rewrapped Sony's cell and called it their battery.

A clearomizer is can use any IMR battery. Clearomizers are the most simple juice delivery device for a beginner to learn on. Just fill it, prime it, and vape. Replace the coil when the flavor subsides or tastes burnt.

Rebuildable atomizers (RBA, RTA, RDA) are the more complex and advanced and not generally for beginners, but offer the best flavor and vapor production for those willing to research on their use.

Proper Terminology: Juice Delivery Devices

And to answer the question above, yes you can use a clearomizer with a mechanical mod.

Thank you. You have given me the insight i was hoping to get when coming to this site.

 

[hazefordays]

A clearomizer can use any IMR battery as their ohm range is generally in the 1 - 3 ohm range. The ohm of the coil determines how many amps will be pulled from the battery. Clearomizers are the most simple juice delivery device for a beginner to learn on. Just fill it, prime it, and vape. Replace the coil when the flavor subsides or tastes burnt. This simplicity has its drawbacks.

Rebuildable atomizers (RBA, RTA, RDA) are more complex and advanced and not generally for beginners, but offer the best flavor and vapor production for those willing to research on their use.

Proper Terminology: Juice Delivery Devices

And to answer the question above, yes you can use a clearomizer with a mechanical mod.[/QUOTE]

Do you think a Sony VCT4 2100mah at 30Amps is too much for the Aspire Nautilus or will that vape just fine without dangers?

 

[Baditude]

Do you think a Sony VCT4 2100mah at 30Amps is too much for the Aspire Nautilus or will that vape just fine without dangers?

The coils used in the Nautilus will pull only what they need from the battery -- whether it is a 10 amp, 20 amp, or 30 amp battery. Using a higher amp battery does not increase the safety risk.

A 30 amp battery for a Nautilus might be overkill, but then you still have that battery available should you eventually decide to use a juice device which requires a high amp battery (ie a rebuildable drip or tank atomizer).

Remember, the resistance of the coil (ohms) in the juice delivery device determines how powerful of a battery that you need.

 

[hazefordays]

The coils used in the Nautilus will pull only what they need from the battery -- whether it is a 10 amp, 20 amp, or 30 amp battery. Using a higher amp battery does not increase the safety risk.

A 30 amp battery for a Nautilus might be overkill, but then you still have that battery available should you eventually decide to use a juice device which requires a high amp battery (ie a rebuildable drip or tank atomizer).

Remember, the resistance of the coil (ohms) in the juice delivery device determines how powerful of a battery that you need.

I might go for a 20 amp, do you have any suggestions for IMR's?

 

[Topwater Elvis]

20a CDR
AW 1600mah 24a cdr
Samsung 20r 2000mah 22a cdr
AW 2200mah 20a cdr
Samsung 25r 2500 mah 20a cdr
LG he2 / he4 2500mah 20a cdr (same battery re wrapped and mislabeled by efest as 35a)

 

[Thrasher]

With 28g go for right about .8 to 1.0 ohms in single coil to start.

With any gauge, too much wire/ too many wraps and/or too high a resistance and the results are rather bland on a mechanical.

The idea is to find "just the right" amount of wire for the resistance.

Get good batteries, 6-8 bucks ea so they are rather cheap.

Learn how to check resistance with some type of meter and be aware of how to spot problems, very hot button, no vapor etc

And that's about it. Shorts are usually the only real problem with mechs, after that its build a coil, pop in a battery, vape like a fiend.

 

[hazefordays]

With 28g go for right about .8 to 1.0 ohms in single coil to start.

With any gauge, too much wire/ too many wraps and/or too high a resistance and the results are rather bland on a mechanical.

The idea is to find "just the right" amount of wire for the resistance.

Get good batteries, 6-8 bucks ea so they are rather cheap.

Learn how to check resistance with some type of meter and be aware of how to spot problems, very hot button, no vapor etc

And that's about it. Shorts are usually the only real problem with mechs, after that its build a coil, pop in a battery, vape like a fiend.

Thanks for the reply! I think im going to go through the route of clearomizers before jumping into RDA's, but I was wondering, if im using a 1.6-1.8 ohm would that perform best (and safest) with a 10amp, 20amp or 30amp 18650? And can you link me to some good ones if possible?

 

[Topwater Elvis]

I usually recommend the aspire nautilus with bvc heads (1.6Ω or 1.8Ω) , but,,, I find them to require more power to get satisfactory results than you'll be able to provide with the mechanical.
I usually vape them between 14 -18w. ( 5v - 5.6v )

4.2v / 1.6Ω = 11w & 2.62a
4.2v / 1.8Ω = 9.8w & 2.33a
As the battery voltage falls so will the vape quality.

 

[Thrasher]

Thanks for the reply! I think im going to go through the route of clearomizers before jumping into RDA's, but I was wondering, if im using a 1.6-1.8 ohm would that perform best (and safest) with a 10amp, 20amp or 30amp 18650? And can you link me to some good ones if possible?

With 1.5 ohms plus you can run 10 amp batteries easy. But should you start rebuilding you may need more.
Right now I run Panasonic 2900 pf 10 amp batteries on my .9 ohm builds.

I buy all my batteries at rtdvapor, really good people and trusted here.

For 20 amp we usually get lg he 2/4 or Samsung 25r

I'm not sure how well a high ohm clearo will run on a mech.

If you want the best of both worlds just get a subtank and the .5 or 1.2 ohm heads .5 will have a great kick and cloud.

And you can buy a base to fit the subtank that is for rebuilding. This way if rebuilding isn't working or you keep running into issues you can still keep using the premade coils/heads while you take the time to figure it out.

I think this idea is a wonderful way to slowly work into rebuildables, if you decide rebuilding is not for you you still have a tank that works great anyways

 

[nyiddle]

Do you think the Ghost v2 RDA is suitable for this build? And is there anyway to get a nice vape from single coil 28 gauge? Forgive me, I know that dual coil builds are not the hardest things ever but I am slightly sceptical due to my lack of experience.

Hey, sorry for the late reply heh.

My first RDA was the iGo-L, it's a bit ancient now, but it's a fantastic, cheap, single-coil RDA. It's extremely simple, and it's a VERY good beginner RDA for experimenting with macro/micro/spaced coils. It's a good idea to drill out the airhole (although I think they're selling them with larger airholes in the top caps).

There are definitely other options, the Doge, for example, has a "single airflow" slot mode. I just recommend the iGo-L for the simplicity of its build deck. It's very hard to create a short with, say, the outside cap, in that RDA.