Introducing the Griffin Rebuildable Atomizer Tank

[Victor Vandyke]

I couldn't tell you if it helps or not, but I'll be doing it exactly the same way I did it this time. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, and if it can't be fixed with a hammer, it needed replacing anway .

Yah, you got it exactly. We all develop our own little "rituals" for this eventually, there are no rules (but there is some science). Whatever works for you, that's part of the fun of it all! Welcome to the voodoo art of vaping on mesh my friend... Just for the record I currently start by swishing my A4 #500 mesh (#400 will do if that's what's available) and 32ga A-1 Kanthal in Vodka to help remove any manufaturer's oil residues etc. (I'd prefer Ethanol/Everclear but it's illegal in my state, gonna' make a run for the border one day). Then run the Kanthal through a butane lighter, glowing it red along it's length, then wipe that off with my fingers. I roll my wicks with as small a center hole as possible (it's a wick, not a straw). I play with different wick diameters but in general thicker wicks work better at higher voltages and thinner wicks work better at lower voltages. (I build thin wicked Phoenix "mods" that absolutely rock on ~3.3V 650mah eGO batteries to use for frequent flavor changes and such [see avatar]). Next I fold over a bit of what will be the exposed edge of mesh to hide any protruding fibers then scorch only the portion of the wick that is to be coil-wrapped in a blue flame butane torch until red 4X (no water-quenching [doesn't hurt and doesn't help but just takes more time, IMHO]). Then I drip VG (or any available ejuice will do) on that portion, set it alight with the torch and allow it to burn off naturally 3X. Then drop the wick into the wick hole (straight bottom cut, no difference noted with a diagonal cut). Next 4-5 wraps of Kanthal (depends on the battery/device I intend to use this with) with coils eveny spread apart as much as I can fit into the space allotted (more heated area = more vapor production). Dry burn at low voltage and drip some juice straight onto the wick. Observe the glow and nudge the coils around and burn with more direct dripping as needed until I get a relatively even glow across the coils. Sometimes this requires a bit of a spin of the wick inside the coils to get it settled into a good place. (And sometimes a bit of patience is required to achieve the desired result). Finally a scissor trim of the wick so that the coils are sitting near the top of the wick. Fill the tank, drip a couple drops of ejuice straight on the wick to speed wicking along, line the intake air hole in the cap straight-up with my coil, and vape away. Between each refill I clean my coils/wick rather gently by scraping any char off with a small jewelers screwdriver (any small tool will do) while running the whole Genesis under hot streaming tap water and rinse/shake-out the tank at the same time. No disassembly required. Then a dry burn and another scrape of the dry-burnt ash from the coil. Another rinse of water and another dry burn. Check the glow again, nudge as necessary, fill the tank and vape sum more... Once this wick has been fully broken-in or "seasoned" it becomes golden to me and will be re-wrapped/re-used as often as possible, which is until it stops performing well. But then I just drop these "old" wicks into a shot glass full of VG and let 'em sit for a while (a week or so) and when I pull them back out and burn them off again they (so far) continue to perform like champs. When does a well seasoned mesh wick really die for good? I don't know yet...

Now my personal sacred rituals are documented for posterity. But subject to change at my whim... YMMV...

Also for the record my experience is that 1mm to 1.2mm intake holes (and small vapor chambers) deliver the best vape and flavor. Bigger is not better in these regards, IMHO.

Also for the record my experience is that "U" wicks perform worse than simple straight wicks. ("Ever seen a U shaped candle wick?" - Quote BJ43)

Recommended reading: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/330407-500-ss-mesh.html

Note: The photo in my avatar is of my Phoenesis™ with mesh. Photo was taken before trimming the wick top, for visual effect.




Siam Cobra, Buzz Pro, Bolt 16450 X2, Phoenix RBA w/ mesh mod X4, Griffin X1 (more to come), Lots of other stuff...

 

[Ctor]

Well, I got thru my first tank, broke it down, cleaned it, redid the coil with the same wire, and am vaping my second tank now.

It's gotten smoother and more flavorful gradually, and at this point it compares favorably to dripping on my 306 atty.

I can see a few more of these in my future, especially if we can get some clearish tanks to use with it.

This thing rocks!

 

[Victor Vandyke]

Well, I got thru my first tank, broke it down, cleaned it, redid the coil with the same wire, and am vaping my second tank now.

It's gotten smoother and more flavorful gradually, and at this point it compares favorably to dripping on my 306 atty.

I can see a few more of these in my future, especially if we can get some clearish tanks to use with it.

This thing rocks!

Yah, for sure, and that's saying a lot. I have a DCA306 here that was my favorite thing in the world flavor-wise until I found rebuildable mesh, Genesis style. It hasn't been touched in months and will soon be offered in the classies. (Nothing against the DCA, it's a truly fine device in it's own right and the best dripping I've experienced, I'm just digging these mesh rebuildables on several other points, with taste still as top priority.)

 

[bluegrasslover]

If anyone finds the right solution to clear tanks for the griffin, I can have them cut from a USA manufacturer and sent to me, so if you find the right one, let me know asap.

Found it. Ideal Instruments 12ml syringe....perfect.

 

[Dieseler]

Eric this is what i do and learned it back in the day when i had my scubagenv3 rebuildable.

1.Look at mesh and cut with mesh grain running up and down for your length.
2.Fold one edge of mesh with mesh grain running up and down.
3. Use paper clip on unfolded edge and start your roll, once rolling go over that edge not under it and keep rolling on that paper clip till its finished.
4. Use needle nose pliers to hold paper clip that is in wick.
5. Fill glass of cold water and bring e-liquid bottle to stove with your mesh .
6. With pliers hold over stoves blue flame not in it but on it till it glows red and keep there for 15-20 seconds.
7. Dip in cold water for - you will hear a faint noise, lightly dab mesh with napkin.
8. Repeat step 6. 3-4 more times each time dipping mesh in cold water and dabbing with napkin.
9. Dip mesh wick in e-liquid and hold over flame careful it will flare up some and get red hot for 15-20 seconds.
10. install in tank and add no e-liquid.
11. Wrap your coil making even;y spaced as possible and make sure that the ground and positive wires are tight and short - no slack in wire.
12. Fire up device and look for all coils to glow evenly , adjust with finger nail if needed to get to them too.
13. Fill tank and coat wick also with e-liquid , start at low voltage and fire up device.

Important -
usually when there is a short with tank full the top wire only going to positive will glow red thats a short , adjust wire with finger nail until it no longer glows red . Make sure the positive and negative wire leads are short and taught.
Oxidizing the wick only puts a very thin coating on mesh and that barrier can be broken if coil is wrapped to tight and also can be scraped off easily with finger nail if not careful this is why sometimes a coil needs to be moved just slightly over a oxidized part again cause barrier was broken.
Now some may not know but only the area that the coil is wrapped needs that oxidized barrier but it's good practice to do the whole wick after all its small.
Some heat there kanthal to burn off any factory residue and some heat there mesh before rolling it. I only heat kanthal till its red very briefly and roll my wick before i oxidize.
This is what works very well for me.

 

[WillyB]

A good vid.

 

[Shelbeethehmmrgirl]

I ordered one of these was prepared for the worst. Managed to wrap a coil up in about 5 mins. This thing hits like a beast. I am only at 3.3 v with a 1.7ohm wrap. I may never need a vv mod again. I wouldn't wanna hit it at 5v like I do my dual coils.


First order from discount and I am impressed will definitely be ordering more from you. Now of you excuse me I am gonna Vape myself into a Nic coma!

Sent from my HTC Express using Tapatalk 2

 

[n874]

Since you can prep a mesh for DiD and Phoenix it's exactly the same for the Griffin too. But if the ground screw just keeps spinning then at least one of those threads are stripped and you need a workaround for this. All hope is not lost. If you're lucky then only the screw is stripped and the hole is fine, just replace the screw with the one from the fill-hole. If not, you can still get a ground connection by dropping that leg of your coil into the ground-screw-hole and just forcing it to make a connection by jamming a toothpick or something in there with it. You can also make a fat well-oxidized wick that presses against the sides of the wick-hole and run the negative leg of your coil down the side of your wick. Or force a larger screw into the ground-hole and wrap your negative around that screw like a Line-style Genesis connection.

Yeah cheers the toothpick trick worked for a bit now its dead again I actually like the TH better than the propper DID which too me is too airy and smooth... Im all fiddled out again... Best so far is the Phoenix wrapped with petar k Unoxidised "genisis" SetUp but I need more of a tank and thing leaks pretty good...

 

[gormly]

Eric this is what i do and learned it back in the day when i had my scubagenv3 rebuildable.

1.Look at mesh and cut with mesh grain running up and down for your length.
2.Fold one edge of mesh with mesh grain running up and down.
3. Use paper clip on unfolded edge and start your roll, once rolling go over that edge not under it and keep rolling on that paper clip till its finished.
4. Use needle nose pliers to hold paper clip that is in wick.
5. Fill glass of cold water and bring e-liquid bottle to stove with your mesh .
6. With pliers hold over stoves blue flame not in it but on it till it glows red and keep there for 15-20 seconds.
7. Dip in cold water for - you will hear a faint noise, lightly dab mesh with napkin.
8. Repeat step 6. 3-4 more times each time dipping mesh in cold water and dabbing with napkin.
9. Dip mesh wick in e-liquid and hold over flame careful it will flare up some and get red hot for 15-20 seconds.
10. install in tank and add no e-liquid.
11. Wrap your coil making even;y spaced as possible and make sure that the ground and positive wires are tight and short - no slack in wire.
12. Fire up device and look for all coils to glow evenly , adjust with finger nail if needed to get to them too.
13. Fill tank and coat wick also with e-liquid , start at low voltage and fire up device.

Important -
usually when there is a short with tank full the top wire only going to positive will glow red thats a short , adjust wire with finger nail until it no longer glows red . Make sure the positive and negative wire leads are short and taught.
Oxidizing the wick only puts a very thin coating on mesh and that barrier can be broken if coil is wrapped to tight and also can be scraped off easily with finger nail if not careful this is why sometimes a coil needs to be moved just slightly over a oxidized part again cause barrier was broken.
Now some may not know but only the area that the coil is wrapped needs that oxidized barrier but it's good practice to do the whole wick after all its small.
Some heat there kanthal to burn off any factory residue and some heat there mesh before rolling it. I only heat kanthal till its red very briefly and roll my wick before i oxidize.
This is what works very well for me.

excellent thank you

 

[gormly]

Just so you are all aware I found a China source making the actual plastic tank for the griffin. I still have to get them to make sure they aren't cheap junk but looks like well have some viable options soon.

 

[CountSmackula]

My wife brought one of the same (I-I) home yesterday. Mic-ed out right on size (dia.), just need time to cut & smooth the cut ends. Glad the weekend is almost here.

Found it. Ideal Instruments 12ml syringe....perfect.

 

[Dragoncqb]

Cool !!!!!.

 

[Aron Gatt]

Yeah cheers the toothpick trick worked for a bit now its dead again I actually like the TH better than the propper DID which too me is too airy and smooth... Im all fiddled out again... Best so far is the Phoenix wrapped with petar k Unoxidised "genisis" SetUp but I need more of a tank and thing leaks pretty good...

What is this pater k uoxodized ?

 

[bmarley5780]

What mesh comes with the Griffin?

 

[Dragoncqb]

2 Sections of SS mesh # 400 ( 1.25"x2").

 

[Aron Gatt]

So far the DID DUD .. Also known as the griffin ... It's working as other genesis do " is the same as the DID ,vapes great ...throat hit ..flv...vapor , same as any genesis or close to them " considering the price " it's a bargain all the way ) ...
Do I recommend to friends or anyone .. Sure I will ... Is it for everyone " I don't know" why ... Well it's a bit fidelly to get it started ..if you are one of those that hate tinkering , well you are going to have frustration as your best friend for a while ;-) ! But that is with any rebiuldable out there ! And if you don't face this little frustration period ..YOU'LL MISS OUT ON THE BEST PART OF VAPING!! Like they say " no pain ..no gain "
If you heard of the LINE and ODDIS.. and NGP and Zen and many more .. They are all a pain in the buttttt ...till you get them started .. But once you do .. YIIIHHHHAAAA. .they work great ... The plus with this Griffin is the PRICE , you will not find a genesis with this price TAG anywhere believe me , I searched ..

Now how I got mine started ... Cos I had a few hot spots in the beginning and wicking issues .. And this is how i got mine work like treat.. " nothing to do with the griffin or DUD ..it's all in the wick and coil .. So

Cut a piece of ss mesh ..mine was 40mm by 30mm roll it as tight as you can to fit in the wick hole very easy " it has to be lose in the hole" if you can't roll it that tight " try a smaller one 40 by 25 will also do..

Then oxy it very well " I don't use water .. I flame with my torch and soak it in PG or VG for about 10 times..
Then I put it in wick hole .. See roughly where the coil is going to be.. Then take it out .. Put some VG or PG on the wick and cut a piece of paper " preferably rolling tabacco paper" roll it where the coil is coming .. Then get the wire and heat the piece you are going to use .. Then roll it on the wick where you have your paper on tight not lose .. After you made your coil " I did 5/4 wrap " you can do how much you want .. But if you Vape on a 3.7 v mod better a 4/3 wrap or less " but coil wrapping it's up to your liking..
Then get you torch and burn the paper from the wick .. And instal it to the DUD / Griffin .. If you find hot spots .. Just puls the coil and pinch it with a needle or something ..till it get glowing even...

I know it's long and most of you know this .. But it's such a great genesis for the price that will only help to get more info and options on how to get this little beast work....

KEEP VAPING ENJOY

 

[bmarley5780]

2 Sections of SS mesh # 400 ( 1.25"x2").

Cool, Thanks

Only says this on the website : "2 Sections of SS Wick (1.25"x2")"

 

[slin]

Finally did the DID with kanthal A 30 awg (100ft for under six bucks) 5 wraps. Still having some wicking issue.

 

[CountSmackula]

Where'd you pick that kanthal up?

Finally did the DID with kanthal A 30 awg (100ft for under six bucks) 5 wraps. Still having some wicking issue.

 

[Boden]

Glass tank update. Bad news The OD of the top and bottom plates is 15.07mm, with the O-ring it's 15.15mm. The only supplier that could do such a specific ID would have to retool his extruder. $$$$$$$$$$$$...$$$$$$$$$. and $$$$$$.

Sorry It's gonna have to be plastic.

I see above that the Ideal 12ml fits Off to Tractor Supply I go.