Introducing the Griffin Rebuildable Atomizer Tank

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Victor Vandyke

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I don't know what material it was, but a short TV insert showed a 3D printer "copying" a wrench. It was usable, so not a basic plastic.



While there's a lot of information around on the subject, I don't like to leave a question unanswered. So, it's both, and the thickness of the wick as well. Different thicknesses of resistance wire will have different resistance per inch, so the overall resistance is determined by the actual length of the wire. Best to use a multimeter to get precisely the resistance you want.



The first chart here had it the wrong way around. A thicker wire will have a smaller resistance, so it would need more length.

I agree with the general point of your replies but to be clear please keep in mind that 32 gauge wire is thinner than 30 gauge wire, so the thicker the physical wire (of equal material) is the lower the resistance is. But a wire with a higher gauge is thinner than a wire with a lower gauge thus higher gauge wire has greater resistance than lower gauge wire. The chart is correct.

Also the wick will not affect the resistance. Fiberglass (silica, ceramic, whatever) wicks are non-conductive so they will not affect resistance and SS mesh wicks can only work in this application if they are oxidized first so that the coil never makes electrical contact with the SS wick and thus will not affect resistance.
 
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Victor Vandyke

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Yay got mine in the mail today!!! Didn't do a wash just pulled out the fill hole screw and filled it up. I don't have syringes but I just dripped on the fill hole and it just fell right thru:):) Yay cause I don't like needles. Had to fiddle with the OEM wick n coil but seems to be ok so far. I'm just leaving the fill hole screw out since it seems to wick better that way and no leakage. I had it drip off the end of the wick instead of the fill hole so no leaking:) Here are some pics I took: It's on my Tele mod from madvapes and I put the Bolt and SB next for size comparison.
View attachment 135699View attachment 135700View attachment 135701View attachment 135702

How are you liking that Smoktech Telescope BTW? It looks great with a Griffin on top :)
 

Swarley

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Actually loving the telescope so far. I like it in "stealth" 18350 mode;) Thanks I think The Griffin looks awesome on it. My friend has a gun metal telescope and wants a gun metal Griffin to match;)
Just letting you know now Eric,if you get gun metal Griffins you won't have them for long:):)
I did notice someone post earlier they thought it was a little heavy feeling and I can see what they mean. It has a little weight to it,but I think that would mean its sturdy. Doesn't seem to make any of my mods top heavy feeling.
My coil seems to be steady at 1.3 ohm. If and when my coil gets hot, it does so evenly at least so no short. I'm just vaping it like there's no tomorrow. So I just tilt to help the wick a bit. I'm not at home at the moment,took the brand new Griffin on its first trip right out the tin;) So I'll tinker and take apart and stuff when I get home.
 

me1969

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I don't know what i'm doing wrong cant get a coil past.8 ohms tried 8 times . used the same wire and mesh on the phoenix clone and got 2.2 ohm first try looks purdy on the z max though just don't vape.Ill take it back apart and start over tomorrow.by the way out of the tin it was 1.4 wich didnt fire on the z I should of used it on something else but it looked so good i wanted to use it on there .
 

gormly

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remember, you need to oxidize ;)


from what I know, if you do not oxidize properly the current will be able to disperse to the mesh, the oxidation process is what eliminates the potential for current to move from the coil which would give you a lower resistance.

am I right? do I get a cookie? :) :)
 

me1969

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I made a coil for your Phoenix no prob just cant get this for some reason (i'm sure its just me and not the griffin)I oxidized the poop out of it before i rolled it after during I'm just not meant to have nice things lol I must of wasted 10 feet of wire .I would be happy with a stainless tube for the mini nova j/k i will get it working tomorrow .what gauge wire is everyone using?
 

Victor Vandyke

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from what I know, if you do not oxidize properly the current will be able to disperse to the mesh, the oxidation process is what eliminates the potential for current to move from the coil which would give you a lower resistance.

am I right? do I get a cookie? :) :)

100% correct. Oxidation of the mesh is the key to making this whole thing work. It's what prevents shorting the coil out against the metal mesh (bad).

Cookies for everyone who's figuring this stuff out. One for me too, I'm still learning as well...
 
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Victor Vandyke

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Actually loving the telescope so far. I like it in "stealth" 18350 mode;) Thanks I think The Griffin looks awesome on it. My friend has a gun metal telescope and wants a gun metal Griffin to match;)
Just letting you know now Eric,if you get gun metal Griffins you won't have them for long:):)
I did notice someone post earlier they thought it was a little heavy feeling and I can see what they mean. It has a little weight to it,but I think that would mean its sturdy. Doesn't seem to make any of my mods top heavy feeling.
My coil seems to be steady at 1.3 ohm. If and when my coil gets hot, it does so evenly at least so no short. I'm just vaping it like there's no tomorrow. So I just tilt to help the wick a bit. I'm not at home at the moment,took the brand new Griffin on its first trip right out the tin;) So I'll tinker and take apart and stuff when I get home.

Roll your wicks as big and tight as you can. It's good if it's a tight fit in the wick hole. If it's wicking well you shouldn't have to tilt as long as the wick is touching juice.
 

Dieseler

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I used to use scubabatdans scubgenv3 when they first came out but eventually sold it because it was huge.
I learned from his video's how to season the wick as they callled it and i tell you once you do it properly you will see what i mean. ; )

Use a butane blue flame not a bic lighters yellow flame to get the mesh glowing red then dipped in water and repeat process several times and then one can coat it with there e-liquid and burn that off as well to help further break it in.
Once done it will not conduct electricity and pop the kanthal wire and or get hot legs and give burnt taste when vaping.

Also as a note torch your small piece of kanthal wire also because in the making of it there can be a oil type residue on it in many cases that can impart a taste at first and this also makes it more flexible to wrap your coil.

I been looking at other threads on the DID and there very long but gathered a few hints here and there.
Make sure the airhole in the cap lines up with the wick.
You can leave the filler screw out as some claim this gives a little more air as well and imparts a better taste overall, im going to experiment with that.

I been experimenting leaving the filler screw out and its my opinion yes it does impart a better taste overall.
Looking forward to another Griffin and when parts are available like the screws cause i just know sooner or later im going to loose one. lol
Thanks again Erik and a Italian fig cookie for you.
 

gormly

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You know, even though I don't know much and I can't supply as many as I'd like this stuff is EXCITING!!!

We know this is all just going to get better, and at the unfortunate loss of exclusivity to American Modders, this does bring a better overall vape (and understanding) to the community which is AWESOME. A lot of people are on budget meaning they can't afford 100.00 for an experiment, being able to sell a clone that functions pretty much like any original for 25 AND make a profit (to fuel other purchases) is just really really cool.


I can't wait to see what's in store this time next year. :)
 

Dieseler

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You know, even though I don't know much and I can't supply as many as I'd like this stuff is EXCITING!!!

We know this is all just going to get better, and at the unfortunate loss of exclusivity to American Modders, this does bring a better overall vape (and understanding) to the community which is AWESOME. A lot of people are on budget meaning they can't afford 100.00 for an experiment, being able to sell a clone that functions pretty much like any original for 25 AND make a profit (to fuel other purchases) is just really really cool.


I can't wait to see what's in store this time next year. :)

Agree as im on a budget being retired. Today i went thru my 2 cigar boxes and tossed a lot of stuff out just sitting that no longer work broken etc . The smoketech rebuildable Vivi i keep and the Griffin thats about it.
 

BuGlen

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You know, even though I don't know much and I can't supply as many as I'd like this stuff is EXCITING!!!

We know this is all just going to get better, and at the unfortunate loss of exclusivity to American Modders, this does bring a better overall vape (and understanding) to the community which is AWESOME. A lot of people are on budget meaning they can't afford 100.00 for an experiment, being able to sell a clone that functions pretty much like any original for 25 AND make a profit (to fuel other purchases) is just really really cool.


I can't wait to see what's in store this time next year. :)

Agreed that it is a very exciting time to get into vaping overall. The industry is still very young and the innovation in this field is moving at an amazing pace. I can't wait to see what's in YOUR store this time next year. :D
 

Big Screen D

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You know, even though I don't know much and I can't supply as many as I'd like this stuff is EXCITING!!!

We know this is all just going to get better, and at the unfortunate loss of exclusivity to American Modders, this does bring a better overall vape (and understanding) to the community which is AWESOME. A lot of people are on budget meaning they can't afford 100.00 for an experiment, being able to sell a clone that functions pretty much like any original for 25 AND make a profit (to fuel other purchases) is just really really cool.


I can't wait to see what's in store this time next year. :)

I've been close several times to buying either a DID, Penelope, or Cobra. One thing that has kinda held me back is not so much the cost, but the cost of having to buy half a dozen or so in the event I really like them. I switch juices around quite a bit throughout the day, so one just won't do.

Another problem with the aforementioned mods, with the exception of the DID, is they can be a PIA to buy. Pre-order, classifieds etc. In fact I was ready to buy a Penelope, and received no reply to a question I asked of the vendor. Passed.
 

gormly

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I've been close several times to buying either a DID, Penelope, or Cobra. One thing that has kinda held me back is not so much the cost, but the cost of having to buy half a dozen or so in the event I really like them. I switch juices around quite a bit throughout the day, so one just won't do.

Another problem with the aforementioned mods, with the exception of the DID, is they can be a PIA to buy. Pre-order, classifieds etc. In fact I was ready to buy a Penelope, and received no reply to a question I asked of the vendor. Passed.

Yea, that's usually a red flag.
 

mrelwood

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Anyone got a good measurement for the size of the stainless mess for this. I cannot get it to wick properly. The am also getting bright red leads near the terminal.

It sounds like your mesh is not properly oxidized causing a short. Do a search for "SS mesh wick oxidizing" either here at ECF or Youtube, you will get a lot of great tips.
 

victimdies

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It sounds like your mesh is not properly oxidized causing a short. Do a search for "SS mesh wick oxidizing" either here at ECF or Youtube, you will get a lot of great tips.

I've done all that. Even did everything five times instead of three. I can get the coils to fire, but have problems with the quick fully being wet. I also get red leads to the positive connector. Still can't figure out what causes that.
 
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