Introducing the Griffin Rebuildable Atomizer Tank

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Victor Vandyke

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I've done all that. Even did everything five times instead of three. I can get the coils to fire, but have problems with the quick fully being wet. I also get red leads to the positive connector. Still can't figure out what causes that.

Torch and oxidize your wick well (You need a butane torch or gas stove to get the mesh red hot in a blue flame. Just follow the instructions from one of the many good videos out there on oxidizing SS mesh). The whole coil assembly, coils and leads, should glow pretty evenly when clean and dry. If it doesn't then your coil is likely making electrical contact with the wick. This is common and just takes some more work to get it right. If it's not working properly at first, try manipulating things a bit: nudge the coil wraps, spin the wick inside the coil, pull the wick up further through the coil...that kind of stuff, until you find a spot that works. Then drip a little juice on it and vape it off, do that a few times (at low voltage if you're VV). Keep breaking in the wick like this and moving it around inside the coil until you get it to work where you want it. Or just start over...

The SS mesh WILL wick if it's touching juice and the coil WILL glow if it's connected to a power source, that's a given. The key to making these work together is just making sure that the coil isn't making electrical contact with the SS mesh. That's accomplished by a proper layer of oxidation acting as an insulator between the coil and mesh.

Hope this helps...
 
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victimdies

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QUOT=Victor Vandyke;7277355]Torch and oxidize your wick well (You need a butane torch or gas stove to get the mesh red hot in a blue flame. Just follow the instructions from one of the many good videos out there on oxidizing SS mesh). The whole coil assembly, coils and leads, should glow pretty evenly when clean and dry. If it doesn't then your coil is likely making electrical contact with the wick. This is common and just takes some moreatomize get it right. If it's not working properly at first, try manipulating things a bit: nudge the coil wraps, spin the wick inside the coil, pull the wick up further through the coil...that kind of stuff, until you find a spot that works. Then drip a little juice on it and vape it off, do that a few times (at low voltage if you're VV). Keep breaking in the wick like this and moving it around inside the coil until you get it to work where you want it. Or just start over...

The SS mesh WILL wick if it's touching juice and the coil WILL glow if it's connected to a power source, that's a given. The key to making these work together is just making sure that the coil isn't making electrical contact with the SS mesh. That's accomplished by a proper layer of oxidation acting as an insulator between the coil and mesh.

Hope this helps...[/QUOTE]

So if the coil glows and everything is oxidized, does that mean my voltage is set too high? Ideally you don't want the coil to glow, right? That will give you a bad taste. I'm coming from an Ody, so still learning genesis style. I've watched almost every video on thin on YouTube. One thing they don't cover is how big the hole must be on the inside of the wick and I know the amount of mesh you use depends on the size of the hole in the atomizer. Can you use to much mesh?
 

tiburonfirst

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right, the coil should only glow when you dryburn ..... under normal operations you should see no glow.

as to the inside hole of the wick, since most people wrap around a thin needle or such, i don't see the need for an exact diameter of the wick hole and since the wick has to fit into the atty hole how could you use too much? from all i have read most use mesh about 3/4 to 1 inch wide.
 

victimdies

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right, the coil should only glow when you dryburn ..... under normal operations you should see no glow.

as to the inside hole of the wick, since most people wrap around a thin needle or such, i don't see the need for an exact diameter of the wick hole and since the wick has to fit into the atty hole how could you use too much? from all i have read most use mesh about 3/4 to 1 inch wide.

Too much as in making the diameter to small and rolling it too tightly. What might be the cause of the positive lead glowing red?
 

Swampey65

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Ok, I have been playing with it all day ( I am a total NOOB at ss & coiling) and I think it's working good now. Here's what I did and the order in which I did it:

1.) Been said a million times but I'll repeat it; You MUST OXIDIZE THE WICK! It looks like it's already been done for you but, just do it anyways because it hasn't been done adequately even if it looks like it has (and it does look oxidized) but, it's not.

2.) 4 coils MAX seems to be the key (at least for me). At the top of the coil, make sure the wire hangs off the left side of the wick and on the right side of the ss wick at the bottom. Insert the coil/wick assembly at this point and connect the negative FIRST. I seem to be getting the best result from running the wire to the OUTSIDE/FRONT of the negative post & tightening it down. If that doesn't make sense here's another way of saying it: make sure the negative wire is NOT run between the positive & negative (backside of negative post)...run it/tighten it down to the outside of the neg post.

3.) Now, you are ready to clamp/screw down the wire to the positive post. Remember, I said that the coil/wire coming off the wick going to the positive post should be hanging off to the LEFT side of SS mesh wick. Firmly, but w/out creating too much tension, drag wire across and around positive post and hold the tension as you spin the "clamp" screw/nut down. You should end up with only a slight bend at the top of the SS Mesh wick towards the Positive post but you DO NOT want it to touch the post!

4.) Now, you should be ready to do a test/dry fire. spin it on to a PV and fire it up for a few seconds. In my case, the whole coil glowed red evenly with no individual hot spots. If you do get hot spots (meaning only sections of the coil get red but other sections don't.) then as others here have said, gently move the coils around/even the spacing out etc. and try dry firing again. If all is cool, proceed to step 5.

5.) Take some juice and load up only the wick/coil where you can see it and fire it again. If all looks good with vape and coils, (at this point no glow while the juice is still being vaporized) then load up the tank through the fill hole and leave the screw off.

6.) Take notice of which side the coil is on and mark it with your thumb on the side of the tank as you screw on the top cover/cap. You want to line up the breather hole on the side the wick is on, (the reason for using your thumb to mark) trying to line it up right behind the wick. ETA: I have since gone and drilled/reemed out the breather hole with a 1/16" drill bit and there's no longer a need for lining up breather hole on the cap (at least not for me) allowing a little more air in fixed this and gave a HUGE column of vapor!

7.) Start Tokin' Baby!!!


I know I wrote this like it was the "Authoritative" Instructional manual on how to do this but, again; I AM A NOOB to all of this!

These are just the steps I took after making and failing with oh...about 6, maybe 8 coil builds!!!:p

If anyone more experienced at all of this stuff see's where I'm leading someone astray in any of my steps, PLEASE pipe up and say something!

Again, I'm just passing on what worked for ME. I hope it proves fruitful for everyone else!
 
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Swampey65

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Something else, separate from coil/wick issues is this; I am having a HORRIBLE time w/ performance on my Torpedo/Lambo. It blows my head off on my Twist and passthrough eGo batts though. Don't know what thats all about. Maybe a connection issue with the "floating" pin on the Torpedo?

I dunno?

Have to think about this for a while & see what I come up with...
 

Victor Vandyke

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An evenly glowing coil over a clean and dry oxidized SS mesh wick is a very good thing. You won't see any glowing after it's wet.

You don't need any hole inside the wick for it to work, but we start crossing into matters of personal preference and limitations of the gear now. The mesh is going to wick juice up no matter what you do to it and if there's a hot coil around it you are going to get vape. Then it's a matter of tweaking to personal preference, and what your battery and coil can handle as far as shape/size/density/length of the wick and coil. There's absolutely nothing wrong with having the most densly packed and longest wick with as many wraps of coil as you can fit, IF your power supply can handle the load and get that coil hot enough to properly vaporize the juice held within the wick.
 
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CountSmackula

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I got

View attachment 136331

Disassembled & washed the Griffin. Good thing too, it felt like there was a light machine oil residue on the unit.
Oxidized the wick (3x heat & quench).
Put juice on the wick & burn off (3x).
Re-wrapped the original coil onto the wick & dry burned to check for even heating.
Checked ohms on the ProVari (2.5 Ω - just the way I like it)
Filled it with juice.
Added 4.3V

Vaping my face off!

Total time: <20 minutes

View attachment 136332
I'll be buying more!
 
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