Also, do you have any idea what the replacement plastic tubes for the griffin are made of?
Introducing the Griffin Rebuildable Atomizer Tank
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My standard drip tip fit ok, but due to the weight of the Hydra it slips out kinda easy (no mouth only holding), but my stainless drip tips fit like a charm on the one I am testing.
Yay thanks for that. Makes me not stress so much cause I don't wanna miss out on your great deals and new items Eric
which stainless steel tip are you using on it eric? Trying to decide which one will look best on it.
I have to revise my statement a bit, the stainless do fit, but they slip out without too much pull.
The one I had on it must have had a used swollen oring or something. the Bullet and the Spindle fit best out of the package
some of the regular 510's fit a tad better.
grrr... these things... you'd think they get at least that right. I guess this is what happens when everyone makes drip tips. It could also be just the weight throwing me off a tad, the Hydra is heavy so it's a serious counter balance.
Also, what lengths/measurements are the silica/nextel and stainless steel wick material you sell?
AGA looks pretty good, the next hot CHiD has arrived. 1mm intake hole and stainless, yeah! Just got 2 on the way from DV. Heck of a good job in being right on top of providing these Eric .
Nice price on the black Bolt as well. The Bolt should be a sharp match-up with the AGA Genesis...
.Nice price on the black Bolt as well. The Bolt should be a sharp match-up with the AGA Genesis...
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AGA looks pretty good, the next hot CHiD has arrived. 1mm intake hole and stainless, yeah! Just got 2 on the way from DV. Heck of a good job in being right on top of providing these Eric
and I am not done, not by a long shot
measurements should be on the website no? I'll have to check when I get some time, kinda slammed tonight LOL
Yes, it does say, just noticed the 6" in the title for the nextel. is that current? See that it says you made it shorter than previous. Guess it doesnt matter currently since you sold out lol. Anyway, thanks for the quick responses.
oh that one, yes it comes in both 6" and 12" ropes of premade coil, so the 6" has 6 coils on it.
I'll get more soon.
well i meant just the silica/nextel itself, i have plenty of kanthal and nichrome i purchased in 100ft bulk previously. Its not necessary for me, i have some cotton ive been using with great results on vivi novas as well, just figured if i was making a purchase id grab a little to try, but its alright. Placed an order, can't wait to get to tinkering on some coils again Cheers mate.
Cheers mate.
Maybe I missed it in this rapidly growing thread, but how do I achieve 2.5 ohms? I've only made 2 coils so far and both are at 1.3 -1.5 ohms. I'm using 400 mesh and the kanthal wire that Eric supplied with the Griffin.
It was 5/6, I am planning on trying 6/7 shortly - but I've got both of them working now and don't want to rip the coils out just yet.
It is such a pain in the ... to get them not to short. I've made dozens of wicks, followed all the tuts on utube, but I still have such a problem with getting good oxidation. Maybe its the grade of stainless itself, I just don't know. They are very finicky. Don't knock your PV over or you'll be fiddling with it till you wrap a new one!
Mine came from another source.
The post marked ignore (I tore mine off) is basically useless for any SS wick. Way too far from the threaded hole and the wire hole is too high.
The unthreaded one, marked wick, is also a bit far from the screw, so make sure your first wrap is low and the wire is making contact with the plate (otherwise it will be a major hot spot).
With mine there was a very tiny nut (look close) which was tightened onto (more like into) the silicone insulator. Be careful here as it's quite easy to tear it up. Luckily I had a tiny washer to use which spread the pressure across the whole top of silicone insulator.
The larger knurled nuts from the Griffith seem like a much better aproach.
The post marked ignore (I tore mine off) is basically useless for any SS wick. Way too far from the threaded hole and the wire hole is too high.
The unthreaded one, marked wick, is also a bit far from the screw, so make sure your first wrap is low and the wire is making contact with the plate (otherwise it will be a major hot spot).
With mine there was a very tiny nut (look close) which was tightened onto (more like into) the silicone insulator. Be careful here as it's quite easy to tear it up. Luckily I had a tiny washer to use which spread the pressure across the whole top of silicone insulator.
The larger knurled nuts from the Griffith seem like a much better aproach.
Haven't got mine yet, but is this post a machined part of the base (I figured I'd use a dremel cutting wheel to lop it off, if it is) or is it in a tapped hole?
The post marked ignore (I tore mine off) is basically useless for any SS wick. Way too far from the threaded hole and the wire hole is too high.
I noticed that, too, and thought the same thing. The positive post looks to be kinda far from the wick hole, too. Another hot spot area. Did you bend your wick towards the pos post to keep the lead short?
Yup, I put a small washer on my Griffin, but it still tore up - I ended up sticking the tip of a syringe in that hole, after sizing it, to make a stiff insulator.
Agreed. I thought of putting another small nut on top of the other small one to get some better height. Maybe at some point there will be some replacement nuts for the Griffin that can be used instead of the AGA stock ones.
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