IPV D2 announced.
- Thread starter Completely Average
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
You sure its not the new version it just showed up yesterday. The airflow hole does not look that small I think this is a copy of the new one. I have some needle files no problem opening up the juice channels.Just keep in mind that the FT Hurricane is a clone of the flawed V1, not the updated V2 (poor wicking being the biggest issue). And it's still a tight-as-hell draw, it's HEMO Eurotank design and those guys have weak lungs or something. I kid a bit, but it WILL be tight for somebody who thinks a Goblin doesn't have enough airflow.
Might want to look into the Goliath V2, dual or single coil capability, solid 510 connection, can run Zephyrus style pre-built heads too, lots of airflow, etc, takes what was good about both the Zephyrus and the Goblin and the original Goliath and puts it in one package.
Hey guys,
So I've read people stating they are setting their wattage during temp. control. This doesn't make much sense to me. It's been said multiple times too over on Reddit.
Am I missing something here? Is there an actual way to adjust wattage while in temp. control mode? Doesn't make sense to me but I just wanna make sure my brain is firing on all cylinders and I'm not wrong.
Thanks,
Ghostin
So I've read people stating they are setting their wattage during temp. control. This doesn't make much sense to me. It's been said multiple times too over on Reddit.
Am I missing something here? Is there an actual way to adjust wattage while in temp. control mode? Doesn't make sense to me but I just wanna make sure my brain is firing on all cylinders and I'm not wrong.
Thanks,
Ghostin
You can adjust Joules which is pretty much like adjusting wattage. Set your temp to taste and you joules to ramp time. Its not as easy as that sounds though cause changing the Joules changes the flavor too so its kinda of a weird thing to get used too.
Try setting your Joules to the number that you would normally set your Watts for the build/coil you're using, then adjust temperature to your liking. For example, if you normally vape a .50 ohm coil @20 watts in power mode, set your Joules to 20 J then adjust your temperature as needed.
Last edited:
Lol running a .5 ohm coil at 20 watts. Doubt anyone would do that. I run that at at least 25 or 30 watts minimum
There you go Assuming again.
You really need to break that habit. In fact, you might even want to experiment. You might find some Mixes are more flavorful at lower heat settings........................Unless you are all about the cloud.
People are building Kayfuns for TC. Many will never need to push past 12-15J to get the vape right.
It is all about what works correctly at what power range.
Oh you again...the one who recently said this:
and this:
The ohms and resistance I mentioned was only an example...get it? Who says no one vapes a .5ohm coil @ 20 watts?...you?...well I guess there's your answer. For someone who joined ECF back in Nov 2013 (and presumably started vaping at that time too), you sure are bold in your trolling and still have lots to learn...it's very obvious. Try not to clog the thread with your trollish behavior please. Seems you're still having difficulty realizing that not all vapers vape like you...sorry but no one can fix that for you.
I remember that statement. Do I even subohm bro. LOL I think this is the guy who trolled me about battery break in too oh well.
Here is another D2 shot, sorry my flash is not working but you'll get the idea.
No, that was me. I want credit for my trolls!
Oh, but I wasn't trolling you; I was trying to educate you.
That's why I provided links to Battery University, a battery engineering information site, where it is stated in the two specific articles that I linked to that there is no break-in and no cell conditioning involved with Li-ion batts. You responded with links to homepages of very good sites (to which I have referred often for discharge curves), where they test batts, but make no claim that there is a break-in period. I left you uneducated. Sometimes I fail. Oh well.Saul good, man.
Last edited:
You guys said to run kayfuns at the 1.5 ohm power range tho. Don't get me wrong I believe you. I was just speaking from my experience. Maybe I should pick up a kayfun. Seems to have some decent hype.
With the do you even sub ohm I was only joking but I think I did take if a little too far. I guess 20 watts would still make decent vape. I was referring to the drop in vp. I guess I treat vaping like a race car sometimes. Always go balls to the wall to get more vapor and hopefully more flavor. Seeing as that isn't everyone's style a little ignorant of me. I'm sorry
Not to mention putting hammer down on power rarely results in the best flavor. Moar vapOrz /= more flavor. Hell, that's true for Kanthal builds too, and just as true for TC builds.
And yeah, there's a whole bunch of folks running 20w or less on Atlantis/Subtank/etc 0.5 ohm coils. Quite a few of them because that's all they CAN run (iStick 20w, MVP 2.0, etc), and quite a few of them because that's how they like to roll. Some don't WANT cloudz bro, some don't like warm vapor, some like the flavor better at lower wattage, some like tight airflow and don't need more power, etc.
And if you think about it, most mech mod users with a "subtank" attached tend to run around 20 watts too, on average, 75% or so of a 2500 mAh 18650 battery's charge would be in the 20w or lower range (a fresh battery might push about 25 watts to a 0.5 ohm coil).
And yeah, there's a whole bunch of folks running 20w or less on Atlantis/Subtank/etc 0.5 ohm coils. Quite a few of them because that's all they CAN run (iStick 20w, MVP 2.0, etc), and quite a few of them because that's how they like to roll. Some don't WANT cloudz bro, some don't like warm vapor, some like the flavor better at lower wattage, some like tight airflow and don't need more power, etc.
And if you think about it, most mech mod users with a "subtank" attached tend to run around 20 watts too, on average, 75% or so of a 2500 mAh 18650 battery's charge would be in the 20w or lower range (a fresh battery might push about 25 watts to a 0.5 ohm coil).
Like I said. Y'all have opened my eyes. What do you think of this video btw?
Idk I'm about to open a new thread about this whole sub ohming thing. I'm very curious as to what I don't understand. I think I must be oversimplifying the equation
Sorry, can't watch that guy. I find him very annoying.
LOL ok. I like trolls keeps things interesting. I hang out over on reddit allot, everyone trolls its pretty funny.No, that was me. I want credit for my trolls!
Oh, but I wasn't trolling you; I was trying to educate you.
Saul good, man.
I will read up a little on your troll you did on me. Ill check back in later and post my findings.
Last edited:
Well, got my D2 in the mail about an hour ago and I'm liking it a lot.
Swapping a single STM from my SX Mini M to the D2 just to see how they compare at the same settings. Yes, I locked the tank resistance on each at room temp before vaping it.
Seem the same to me vape-wise.
The fit and finish of the D2 was great out of the box. No flaking paint, no mismatched parts, buttons are tight, battery door was smooth. Mine came with the black sleeve on it.
And, it does indeed fire/operate with a Ti coil higher than .3 ohms. I'm running a .35 in it at 18.0J no problem.
My new best friends:
Swapping a single STM from my SX Mini M to the D2 just to see how they compare at the same settings. Yes, I locked the tank resistance on each at room temp before vaping it.
Seem the same to me vape-wise.
The fit and finish of the D2 was great out of the box. No flaking paint, no mismatched parts, buttons are tight, battery door was smooth. Mine came with the black sleeve on it.
And, it does indeed fire/operate with a Ti coil higher than .3 ohms. I'm running a .35 in it at 18.0J no problem.
My new best friends:
Does locking in ohms at room temp mean approx. 65-68 degrees Fahrenheit? Curious about those that might be outside working in 35-45 degree weather, and do a atty change in the cold. Or is it best to lock resistance, indoors always?
Anyone noticing their D2's screen shifting to different brightness modes? Mine is shifting to a less bright mode with no flickering or other glitches that suggest a board problem. I found the screen overly bright so I'm not concerned about that... am I just unaware of the proper functioning and modes of the screen (the menu and operation is rather different than what I'm used to.) Thanks for any observations from yall....
- Status
Similar threads
