I like the barrel connector charger style better too. USB is just too flimsy I think, ill take a barrel connector every time.
IPV D2 announced.
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That screw does not rotate and its soldered to 14g wire I think so its pretty sturdy. Not anything to worry about.
I think so very much. My mods deliver power very different for sure and it changes the vape experience IMO. I have two mods with Yihi boards they vape pretty much identical. My Raptor vapes different and I do notice flavor differences from this to my VW mods. I also have a unregulated dual parallel mod that vapes different than all of them. Power delivery will change the way a atty behaves and vaporizes liquid.
I have a couple more 25r's coming tmrw they seem to give me the longest vape time. I have VTC4's and they cant hang with my 25r's it seems. They are a little old so new ones may be different. I think 25r's or the new HG4 is gonna be the best bet. VTC4 is pretty old tech in the scheme of things, I know they are 30amp but things have changed with battery chemistry from 2 yrs ago.
Some guy on here earlier was saying it's good to run at least 30 amp battery tho. The mod maxes out at 25 amps according to steam engine and battery drain is a thing.
I've been using it with one, even two o-rings for some really long attys, without any troubles. Of course, you should check the proper connection before start running them, but they connect, they got insulated (actually, air tight) on the 510 and they force it, by the minimum extent, the spring-loaded mechanism.
Plus, they do not scratch the paint job in the mod....
Apropos the 510, it's true that almost no 510 is leaking-proof. FatDaddy's can leak some drops, if flooded, when the core pin goes up and down. I had to insulate one with thermal glue for that reason, and it worked, but with a slow response to movements.
This P4Y solution is a bit clumsy, because it renders a weak core pole, prone to get stumbled and risking both the pin and the washer which raises it, even if very few people have complained about this. But it's air-tight behind the washer... just remember to clean from time to time, or when there is a strong evidence of liquids, condensation, even dust, getting behind the washer (by the gap I showed you in my earlier post). Isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip would be your friends there.
This choice is also mine, as a long time user of many kind of appliances that get current with those connectors. I haven't been fully understood in my usual forums, everybody likes the microUSB, even if it is prone to bad connections with time and dust, or prone to get misaligned in those extremely small pins. If any, I'd rather prefer miniUSB, it's sturdier and for mods and alike, it's not so big.
Not to mention that it lacks of symmetry, and every time you try to plug it, it's backwards......
But tablets, smart-phones and even thinner toys (do you remember those Bluetooth earbuds?) pulled a really fast one in those matters......we cannot win!....
You should definitely get some LG HG4's (not to be confused with the HE4). They are 3000 mAh and 20 amp continuous. Same power as a 25R with noticeably more capacity. And based on the tests I have seen they are genuinely 20 amp continuous and 3000 mAh. Only problem with this battery is they are backordered everywhere. I got lucky and snatched 2 from Illumn, but they are out of stock now.
Samsung makes a competing battery called the 30Q. It is only spec'ed at 15 amps (3000 mAh) but I have seen tests that put it at 20 amps. Apparently Samsung wanted to be a bit conservative with the amperage spec. Either way, it is a very similar battery to LG's HG4 and would be fine in most any regulated mod. The reason I mention the Samsung is because they are easier to find than the HE4's and are probably just as good.
TL;DR -- The 25R is no longer the best all around battery for regulated mods. For mech mods, you still probably want the Sony's for the 30 amps. But honestly, who uses mech mods and why?
Watch where you say those mech mod comments. I used to own one but I actually bought for durability rather than sub ohming. To be fair I bet not many people use mechs anymore in this thread. I know cxres has a couple. only argument I'm seeing people make anymore is they look cool. Which is true. But these mods are looking sleeker. My favorite is probably the sx mini. I don't have one but I might eventually. Looks so cool
Yeah. it should be at least 25 A.
(Alternative, more elaborated calculus).
I've ordered four VTC4, two of them for my IPV D2. The Samsung's 25R are rated 20A continuous discharge, and some sources claim it might sustain 30 or more amps at some scheduled non-continuous discharge. Here it is the problem, the schedule that satisfies spot-light users is no way near of which can satisfy us, not to mention the safety disclosure.
Except, high-drain 18650 batteries are NOT designed for flashlight use, they're designed to be used in power tools. They consider up to 90 seconds as "pulse" time, anything longer than that is considered continuous.
So personally, I don't sweat it with regulated devices, since all of the branded 20 amp+ continuous batteries (LG, Sony, Samsung) have a 30 amp+ pulse duration that's usually far longer than our regulated mod firing times.
Besides that, on the IPV D2 in particular, with non-temp control builds, since it can't fire below 0.2 ohms, you simply can't exceed the 20a continuous rating.
With temp controlled builds, you're limited to 50J (not 75W) and you're increasing resistance as you fire (lowering amp drain), so worst case during the first part of the firing cycle, a typical 0.1 ohm Ni200 build will only be pulling 22 amps for a brief moment, and drop that figure to under 10 amps rapidly as resistance increases.
TL;DR: Battery amp rating is important, as is buying quality batteries. But any of the quality 20 amp+ continuous units on the market are more than safe enough for regulated single 18650 mods. Mech mod paranoia is still warranted, but most of the battery safety "facts" people are spouting these days dates back a couple years and an entirely different category of devices and use cases.
Where are you guys getting LG HG4's? I can't find them available online anywhere. Are you sure you don't mean the LG HG2's? illumn doesn't list the LG HG4 cell.
IMR Batteries has them:
LG HG2 18650 3000mAh 20A Flat Top Battery - IMRbatteries.com
edit: and, yes, you are correct, it is HG2 not HG4
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Not to mention the chip has an over amperage protection does it not?
Yeah that's my fault. I said HG4. It is supposed to be HG2. Sorry about that. Illumn carries them but were back ordered last time I checked.
Also, you can look into the Samsung 30Q. It is 3000mAh, rated at 15a continuous (but is really a 20A continuous battery). They should be easier to find and perform the same as the LG.
Absolutely true, but one thing is power tools and their known industry leaders, and another one the flashlight merchandising, branding and warehousing, which too often mix the sources like bad martinis....
Beware those misguided comments, please. First, any regulated device which drains off the battery more than it can provide, due to the high power requested, would likely fail to provide that power, or it should show a 'Battery Weak/Battery Low' message. In any case, you won't get what you asked for.
But your second phrase clearly points out to a common misconception. A regulated device, i.e., with a DC-DC transformer/converter between battery and power sink (attys in our case), provides some amperage to the sink, exchanged from another totally different current consumption from the battery. And, within certain boundaries which depend on the electronics and its hardware/software limiters, the battery current drain IS NOT dependant on the atomizer resistance.
In a mech, that resistance is everything, actually, it takes the role of "current valve" for the battery. In a regulated mod, it's the electronics the one and only who decides how much amps are needed from the battery, to provide the atomizer with a certain voltage (and amperage related by ohm's law). They are not the same, they are just related by energy/power considerations in each side, plus the yield/efficiency factor.
I do not encourage to read my blog posts, I know, they are TL;DR!.....
, but the math is there, if you want to guess correct numbers, do the actual math, please!Temperature controlled devices are forced to run with even lower resistances, and that strikes the electronic boundaries. That's why many mods pull out less effective power in TC mode than in normal constant VW mode, as they run with different resistances (due to the materials). An example:
P4Y IPV D2 (running away the O.T.!). It fires up to 75 W in VW mode, but restrained to 7 V max, so it really achieves 75W with 0,653 Ω or less. As it cannot fire down 3,6 V (it lacks of real DC-DC step down) with that same resistance it cannot go below roughly 20 W. In that mode the electronic accepts between 0,2 and 3,0 Ω.
Now in TC mode, nickel wires are so damned little resistive that any sizeable build ends up down 0,5 Ω or less (if you're lucky and really skilled with enough room for that coil), and the designers of almost all TC-nickel chips have put the resistance boundaries between 0,05 and 0,30 Ω, like the D2 (YiHi SX130H) does. But in that range of resistance the electronics cannot go beyond 50 W (it will fire up something!), so the maximum power is 50 J, that is, watts as YiHi christened them. Both James (Watt and Joule) are deeply concerned at their afterlives....
As titanium coils go a little up and the resistance boundaries are more relaxed, towards usual sub-ohm culprits, usually you can get more power..... But in the D2 the max. power remains the same. In the SX330-whatever (I'm talking about the IPV4S) they can reach 50J in nickel, 100J in titanium, and 120W in normal VW mode. It's the electronic boundaries.
And finally, now it's the turn for the lack of stepping down in VW but some simulation of it in TC mode for the D2. Well, this is an easy one.
Remember the SX130 in the IPV mini? It could be user set to DC-DC (no step down 3,6 V minimum output) and PWM (now it goes down, but using the PWM output). Now you change minor details in hardware and power train (those MOSFET and impedances/inductances) and apply some new logic to TC control......et voilá! ...SX130H!
But it remains without real step-down, unless it simulates it under a PWM output, which is absolutely needed to get to low outputs and avoid burning things (in the coil/cotton/whatever assembly).
Now, the marvellous thing. They had a good baseline to fix costs and control them, and they did all lobotomising the former SX130. Good for YiHiecigar boys! (and our pockets, not too deep lately....
).
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...............
Class in Regulated Vaping 101
Skipping class
Going fishing
BBL
good information............... exhausting read and more for a Post of its own, less for a D2 fan thread.
Class in Regulated Vaping 101
Skipping class
Going fishing
BBL
good information............... exhausting read and more for a Post of its own, less for a D2 fan thread.
He did what he did. Decent read tho I didn't understand half of it. Let us know what you catch. I caught a 3.8lb smallmouth on Monday lol...............
Class in Regulated Vaping 101
Skipping class
Going fishing
BBL
good information............... exhausting read and more for a Post of its own, less for a D2 fan thread.
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