IPV Mini V2 ???

[VapingTurtle]

My USB Volt/Amp detector thingy shows 0.88A (and 4.93v) using a standard 5v wall plug and the same when plugged into my computer.

Thank you. I looked at that .5A statement and thought I'd seen a different spec per testing somewhere. The .88A spec matches what I remembered seeing.

Yeeesh, I hate when people spout misinformation based on assumption... except when it's me doing it. Then I don't mind so much.

 

[rbferg]

Can someone explain to me what the battery level icon on the ipv Mini 2 is showing me? Is it battery percentage remaining? When should I pull the battery out to recharge going by the status icon?

 

[crxess]

Can someone explain to me what the battery level icon on the ipv Mini 2 is showing me? Is it battery percentage remaining? When should I pull the battery out to recharge going by the status icon?

It is showing Usable battery power Remaining. You can run it until IT tells you Battery Low.
The Dip while firing is showing current draw.
Unit cut off (stops firing) is at safe battery minimum.

These are basically Dummy proof.........(resistant)

 

[rbferg]

It is showing Usable battery power Remaining. You can run it until IT tells you Battery Low.
The Dip while firing is showing current draw.
Unit cut off (stops firing) is at safe battery minimum.

These are basically Dummy proof.........(resistant)

Thanks!! I'm trying to understand as much as possible since the instructions are basically useless and on top of that I got instructions for the ipv Mini 30w.

 

[Jonny5]

I don't think you should run it until the warning. To keep your battery in the best condition you should recharge at 3.6 V or above. I've noticed that when my battery icon is at half, it's about 3.67 V. That's when I pull the battery and recharge. If you go below 3.6 V your battery will run through its life much faster. If you go below 2.6-3.2 you could permanently damage the battery.

 

[ThunderDan]

My guess would be closer to the 2.1v USB 2.0 standard than .5v, but again - a guess. Good luck even getting P4Y to even understand the question.

No clue what Different materials someone is referring to. Only one chip for the mini 2 70w.

I had posted:
"The materials included are for a completely different mod powered by a different board."

I meant the instruction manual that comes with the mini II is for the regular mini.

I was replying to Signmaker who had posted about looking "through the materials" that had come with his (ipv mini II).

Thank you. I looked at that .5A statement and thought I'd seen a different spec per testing somewhere. The .88A spec matches what I remembered seeing.

Yeeesh, I hate when people spout misinformation based on assumption... except when it's me doing it. Then I don't mind so much.

Heh, that's my bad, and completely wasn't the point of my post. I wasn't trying to imply the charging board charged at .5A I was replying to Signmaker's post about charging with a higher amp wall wart / source. In his post he had said "just 0.5A, or somewhere in between", I guess I should have included the "or somewhere in between".

I was replying to him so I figured it was implied, but I guess not since somebody else had asked about it actually charging at .5A or not, which was not the point of my reply.

All I meant was if you plug it into a 2A wall wart, its not going to charge at 2A, the charging board will pull whatever amperage it is designed for, whether its .5A, 1A, or somewhere in between.

 

[crxess]

I had posted:
"The materials included are for a completely different mod powered by a different board."

I meant the instruction manual that comes with the mini II is for the regular mini.

I was replying to Signmaker who had posted about looking "through the materials" that had come with his (ipv mini II).



Heh, that's my bad, and completely wasn't the point of my post. I wasn't trying to imply the charging board charged at .5A I was replying to Signmaker's post about charging with a higher amp wall wart / source. In his post he had said "just 0.5A, or somewhere in between", I guess I should have included the "or somewhere in between".

I was replying to him so I figured it was implied, but I guess not since somebody else had asked about it actually charging at .5A or not, which was not the point of my reply.

All I meant was if you plug it into a 2A wall wart, its not going to charge at 2A, the charging board will pull whatever amperage it is designed for, whether its .5A, 1A, or somewhere in between.

Gottcha'!
First thing I noticed was the WRONG manual - Waste of a good tree/Forrest.

Wall Wart, or any other supply source - will only pull power required to operate internal features(led/etc.) until connected to whatever device. Then it will only past what is accepted be the device up to the Supply units max.
A 2 amp wall wart can supply .5a feed or any other value as required, up to the 2a limit.

Power is Drawn, not pushed - otherwise 40w bulbs would Blow or 100w Bulbs would not glow.

 

[Ghostin215]

does anyone know what the body of the Mini 2 is made off? I'm thinking of using car spray paint to re-do the paint since mine's pretty scratched up, but I need to know if it's aluminum, plastic, etc. before I can paint it since the type of spray paint I use depends on the material it's used on.

 

[crxess]

It is a composite metal - heavier than Aluminum. Maybe aluminum/manganese?

 

[Completely Average]

My USB Volt/Amp detector thingy shows 0.88A (and 4.93v) using a standard 5v wall plug and the same when plugged into my computer.

Which would be normal for a USB SDP device wired for .5A current.

The USB port in a computer is an "intelligent port". It detects the connecting device based on 2 way communication with the port of the device and adjusts the power accordingly. You have a standard USB meter, so it detects the meter as a SPD (Standard Port Device) and only allows a .5A current.

If you had a device such as a cellphone that had it's USB port wired as a CDP (Charging Downstream Port) or a DCP (Dedicated Charging Port) then the USB port on your PC would detect the difference and adjust the power output accordingly.




Since I hate misinformation, maybe this will help....

The good folks at the USB implementers forum (USB-IF) define the USB 2.0 cable as having four wires plus a grounded shell. There are 5VDC, ground and a data pair called Data+ (D+) and Data- (D-). While the data happens on D+/-, charging current is provided on the 5 volt wires. But D+/- come into play on creating various charging profiles where a downstream port device (PD) needing a charge plays a minuet by toggling these wires in a specific way.

The enumeration sequence on the wires tells the charger how much current to source for charging the PD. This orchestration is the basis of “smart” charging and is essential to today’s high capacity (larger current) battery devices like tablets. Smart charging is also needed to quickly top off on-the-go devices in under an hour instead of overnight.

A charging downstream port (CDP) can transact USB data while charging the PD at up to 1.5A. As well, per BC1.1 and BC1.2, a dedicated charging port (DCP) will not transact USB data but will charge at 1.5 A (max) at 5.25 V. This also matches the Chinese telecom standard when the charging profile is enabled.

Step 1: Primary detection to determine if the port should be in SDP, CDP, or DCP

PD sends out a 0.5 – 0.7V pulse on D+ and waits for a similar pulse from the USB port on D- .
If there is no response on D-, the profile is SDP.
If there is a response on D-, Secondary detection begins.

Step 2: Secondary detection determines if the profile is CDP or DCP.

PD then sends out a similar pulse on D- and waits for a reply on D+ .
The profile is CDP if there is no reply on D+ .
The profile is DCP if there is a 0.5 – 0.7V reply on D+. This is often accomplished by the charging IC merely shorting D+/D- together.

https://www.pericom.com/support/technical-articles/how-usb-charges-just-about-any-electronic-device/


So all a mod maker has to do is use a USB port that defines itself as either a CDP or DCP port. The USB port on your PC will recognize the CDP or DCP port of the mod and adjust the power output to 1.5A. Simply sticking a SDP meter or device into the port will result in only .5A being delivered. The device has to be correctly configured as CDP or DCP to access the higher charging rate.

I hope that clears up any nonsense about the USB 2.0 ports and above being limited to only .5A.

 

[VapingTurtle]

Which would be normal for a USB SDP device wired for .5A current.
...
I hope that clears up any nonsense about the USB 2.0 ports and above being limited to only .5A.

But a wall wart just using a USB connection without USB intelligence behind it ... ???

 

[UncleChuck]

I sold my 30W and my silver 70w and replaced them with a pair of black Mini IIs with matching Goblins, now I just need a little briefcase to carry them around in



I gotta say, I like the black finish a lot better than the silver, something about the silver color just reminded me of those cheap little gas station torch lighters.

 

[zeus01]

finally got mine thanks for everyones feedback specially the charging thing

 

[Metis]

I'm still awaiting the Mini 2 to get in stock at my local B&M.

been waiting for over a week now - it saddens me a bit, as I have a new Orchid waiting for some power

 

[zeus01]

question

which is better,building a 1-2 ohm coil,pushing ti lets say 70watts
single coil...0.50mm wire.2.5mm 7wraps

or doing a 0.2-0.3 ohm coil same wattage
70watts?

2 ply single coil...

on a trident

 

[crxess]

question

which is better,building a 1-2 ohm coil,pushing ti lets say 70watts
single coil...0.50mm wire.2.5mm 7wraps

or doing a 0.2-0.3 ohm coil same wattage
70watts?

2 ply single coil...

on a trident

Depends greatly on your complete setup and your vaping preference.
I don't know of anyone vaping 2ohms at 70w but some may.

2ohm coil from 24ga(.5mm) may take a lot of battery to heat up. It will likely cool very slow also.

 

[ThunderDan]

Depends greatly on your complete setup and your vaping preference.
I don't know of anyone vaping 2ohms at 70w but some may.

2ohm coil from 24ga(.5mm) may take a lot of battery to heat up. It will likely cool very slow also.

They have a 8.5V limit anyway. A 2 ohm coil would max out around 36W.

Nobody is vaping 70W with a 2 ohm coil on these.

 

[crxess]

They have a 8.5V limit anyway. A 2 ohm coil would max out around 36W.

Nobody is vaping 70W with a 2 ohm coil on these.

Not so sure I trust Chinese Regulation protection.
I have been vaping on my Cloupor mini at 30 watts(max) with a .68ohm dual coil and had it suddenly read 1.2 while getting so hot it was scary. Obviously it was still a .68ohm coil and the watts well exceeded the Max limit. After removing/cleaning the 510's all was back to normal.

 

[AO Two]

Sup guys, where's the cheapest place to buy the iPV Mini 2? Cheapest site i found them on is, PIONEER IPV MINI II 70w

 

[zeus01]

Depends greatly on your complete setup and your vaping preference.
I don't know of anyone vaping 2ohms at 70w but some may.

2ohm coil from 24ga(.5mm) may take a lot of battery to heat up. It will likely cool very slow also.

well not really a 2 ohm coil...
but I guess a higher ohmn resistance..

something like 1 or 1.5ohms..



by the way,quick question

is it just me or am I going crazy.

built a 0.2 ohm coil,well 2ply ,single coil,20 watts
and battery seems to be draining faster
vs when I has a 1ohm coil @ 55watts