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iPV Mini?

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KTMRider

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If 2 Chips give me Everything that I want out of a Chip, then Isn't the one that is Less Expensive Better? To Me that is.

The Evolv or Evolv-ed Based seemed to work Fine. But I Really Didn't like the One Press to Wake Up the chip design.

The genuine Evolv DNAxx don't have a pause from sleep to fire. Most clone chips do (Cloupor doesn't). It's hard to quantify but I feel my dna 30 and 40 chipped mods vape a bit better than my clones. I might describe it as smoother. The dna 40 is definitely more consistently smooth as it doesn't pop toward the end of a draw which is more a function of the TP.
 

Major911

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I'm using it with a Nautilus mini, 1.8 ohm coil which is rated 3.3-6.0 v. I'm vaping 13.9w, 5.0v. I checked both settings and THINK :?: I prefer PWM. Really too soon to tell yet. I think that DC mode is geared more towards sub-ohm equipment. What I really need is it to last ALL day. I have noticed that the juice consumption has increased. :vapor: I also compared it to my MVP 2.0 and noticed that it is only about 1/8" thicker on the short side. All in all, I'm real pleased with it.

DC-DC is not geared towards sub ohm. Its geared for anyone who wants a smooth consistent power signal rather than a signal that pulses high then low and tries to use an average of the two. There's a reason why you can't read PWM on an inline meter, it's not accurate or consistent. Your MVP 2.0 was DC-DC and it certainly wasn't meant for sub ohming Can't for the life of me understand why they even made it an option on the IPV mini. It only serves to confuse people.
 

Evi|grin

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Try a 1.7ohm carto on both PWM and DC-DC at 7watts and you will QUICKLY understand why PWM has value. At 4.2v the battery and 1.7ohm will not step down to 7watts. You will be at nearly 10.5watts in DC-DC mode.

Im sure it does in PWM mode though. At 5watts PWM i get next to no vapor. At 7watts it vapes about the same as a MVP at 7watts. At 8watts its similar but smoother than the iStick at its lowest 5.2watts setting.

At 5watts in DC-DC mode with the exact same carto its WAY over powered.
 

Flt Simulation

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Well, it's obvious that a watt / coil ohm combination that will require the Mini to output less than battery voltage won't happen in DC-DC mode.

So, if you like real low watt vaping that requires less than battery volts, just switch to PWM mode
_______________________________

I [only] use DC-DC mode, and I vape at 10 watts of power ... So, I learned that I just need to use a coil that is at least 1.7 ohms or greater so I never need the Mini to output voltage less than a fully charged battery when vaping at my 10 watts.

Simple ...
 

cjpeltz

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If 2 Chips give me Everything that I want out of a Chip, then Isn't the one that is Less Expensive Better? To Me that is.

The Evolv or Evolv-ed Based seemed to work Fine. But I Really Didn't like the One Press to Wake Up the chip design.

Well yes, if it gives you what you want. Someone else posted the Yihi chips have more power. Again, in just comparing a DNA30 to the IPV Mini, there is a huge difference in power, IMO. The IPV Mini cannot even fire some of my 0.6 ohm coils that I use on my DNA30 devices (edit: most likely due to the fact that it is mis-reading the coil as 0.3 ohm). And yes, I understand you are getting what you pay for with $50 bucks -- but purely from the standpoint of the 30W chip power in the IPV and the same 30W DNA device, the DNA device wins hands down. Don't get me wrong - I still am using the IPV Mini and I like it. But, MY experience tells me that the power is much much better in the DNA devices. But I'm willing to try the other Yihi chips as you can never have too many mods...
 
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zoiDman

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    Well yes, if it gives you what you want. Someone else posted the Yihi chips have more power. Again, in just comparing a DNA30 to the IPV Mini, there is a huge difference in power, IMO. The IPV Mini cannot even fire some of my 0.6 ohm coils that I use on my DNA30 devices (edit: most likely due to the fact that it is mis-reading the coil as 0.3 ohm). And yes, I understand you are getting what you pay for with $50 bucks -- but purely from the standpoint of the 30W chip power in the IPV and the same 30W DNA device, the DNA device wins hands down. Don't get me wrong - I still am using the IPV Mini and I like it. But, MY experience tells me that the power is much much better in the DNA devices. But I'm willing to try the other Yihi chips as you can never have too many mods...

    I guess it just get's down to What a person wants.
     

    Arvee3

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    Try a 1.7ohm carto on both PWM and DC-DC at 7watts and you will QUICKLY understand why PWM has value. At 4.2v the battery and 1.7ohm will not step down to 7watts. You will be at nearly 10.5watts in DC-DC mode.

    Im sure it does in PWM mode though. At 5watts PWM i get next to no vapor. At 7watts it vapes about the same as a MVP at 7watts. At 8watts its similar but smoother than the iStick at its lowest 5.2watts setting.

    At 5watts in DC-DC mode with the exact same carto its WAY over powered.

    FINALLY someone has described what I am experiencing. Basically, DCDC is unusable at anything about 1.5 ohm. It burns the crap out of your coils man and feels so hot.

    Anyone who hasn't tried the IPV Mini with DCDC doesn't know what we mean. Sure DCDC on paper is way better but after experiencing this with the mini I feel like DCDC is truly for sub ohming only. I explain it this way, DCDC gives you the power straight from the battery so if your batt is charged at 3.9 then that's what your gonna get. Use the ohm's law calculator and find the best resistance that won't blow out your coil.
     

    Marc411

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    I'm using both of mine in DC-DC mode with a 27ga 1.4 ohm coil and I'm vaping it at the same 11 to 11.5 watts that I do my VF or 100W Plus so the 20W.

    I do experience drop off of vapor as the battery drains but my batteries get pulled at 3.7 and hit the charger regardless of PV. I haven't bothered with PWM since they are producing great in DC-DC mode.
     
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    zoiDman

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    FINALLY someone has described what I am experiencing. Basically, DCDC is unusable at anything about 1.5 ohm. It burns the crap out of your coils man and feels so hot.

    Anyone who hasn't tried the IPV Mini with DCDC doesn't know what we mean. Sure DCDC on paper is way better but after experiencing this with the mini I feel like DCDC is truly for sub ohming only. I explain it this way, DCDC gives you the power straight from the battery so if your batt is charged at 3.9 then that's what your gonna get. Use the ohm's law calculator and find the best resistance that won't blow out your coil.

    I'm Old School.

    You can Show me all the Charts/Graphs and Thermo Formulas. But what it gets down to me is how the Hit Tastes when I Mash down the Power Button.

    For what I use on my IPV Mini for (2.8 Ohm Clearos @ 6.5 ~ 8.5w) I'm liking PWM better than DC Mode.
     

    crxess

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    A little ..... in the WPM, DO-DC armor

    It Has NOTHING TO DO with Sub Ohm

    Cartos(Carto Tanks/etc.), Mini's, Clearos, Protanks..............Etc.Ect.etc All use thinner wire. DC-DC is more powerful and is going ot lite it FAST = Hot = Harsh
    This is for that 1.7 up argument.
    Now, Kayfun @ 1.7 ohm, 28Ga WIRE works just Fine on DC-DC - I am running a few at 12watts. Carto would go Poof!!!
    PWM is the Logical choice for basic Coil heads and Cartos.

    Yes it DOES have a purpose for many, myself included. I don't want to break out a different mod just to enjoy my F16 Tanks.
    Yes For long Battery life you can sacrifice a bit of the smoothness of the vape by running PWM.

    We will see how well it works once PB gets the Review posted.
    eVic works rather nicely with PWM though it runs at a higher frequency.
     
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    Arvee3

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    A little ..... in the WPM, DO-DC armor

    It Has NOTHING TO DO with Sub Ohm

    Cartos(Carto Tanks/etc.), Mini's, Clearos, Protanks..............Etc.Ect.etc All use thinner wire. DC-DC is more powerfual and is going ot lite it FAST = Hot = Harsh
    This is for that 1.7 up argument.
    Now, Kayfun @ 1.7 ohm, 28Ga WIRE works just Fine on DC-DC - I am running a few at 12watts. Carto would go Poof!!!
    PWM is the Logical choice for basic Coil heads and Cartos.

    Yes it DOES have a purpose for many, myself included. I don't want to break out a different mod just to enjoy my F16 Tanks.
    Yes For long Battery life you can sacrifice a bit of the smoothness of the vape by running PWM.

    We will see how well it works once PB gets the Review posted.
    eVic works rather nicely with PWM though it runs at a higher frequency.

    Finally, this is the answer I was looking for and crxess you have to be right about this. Why in all the discussion of PWM and DCDC not only in this post, but community wide, has the whole thin wire, stock cartos factor never been mentioned?
     
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    inswva

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    Gray carbon fiber Vapor Skinz has landed. Here it is with its gray carbon fiber wrapped little brother.

    2lkOYT.jpg
     

    zoiDman

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    Finally, this is the answer I was looking for and crxess you have to be right about this. Why in all the discussion of PWM and DCDC not only in this post, but community wide, has the whole thin wire, stock cartos factor never been mentioned?

    [JOKE]

    Because Nobody uses Cartos or Clearos anymore. And Everyone is using an RBA/RDA pushing 20+ Watts.

    [/JOKE]
     

    cjpeltz

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    DCDC gives you the power straight from the battery so if your batt is charged at 3.9 then that's what your gonna get. Use the ohm's law calculator and find the best resistance that won't blow out your coil.

    I also liked how Sigelei described it for their new mini -

    "This mod is unique in that you can switch off electronic functionality and use it as a mechanical mod. If you do so, it bypasses all the board circuitry and goes to DC-DC mode, thus letting you sub-ohm lower than the chip allows! "

    In short - think of DC-DC as letting the Mini run "like" a mechanical mod.
     
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