iPV Mini?
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It's because you are using a .5 coil and the 3.75ish volts is the lowest it will buck in DC-DC and 3.87 is the highest it will boost using you're coil. So as you can see you will not notice a difference in vapor.
My resistance is reading 0.1ohm lower (I think). I did get a new USA ohm meter yesterday. I'll report back. I've been building without a meter the last 2 weeks. When I'm not being lazy I check my builds on a known accurate mod or with a DMM. The atty that's on the ipv mini I built a few weeks ago and it was living on a mech til the mini came. So its an old coil and hasn't been measured in a long time.
Heard back from Vapor Range today they politely told me I could deal with their warranty company Asmodus for my return/repair. 3rd party warranty company that requires an $8.00 handling fee up front before you can send it to them. This plus shipping makes me wonder if it's worth it for a $50 mod.
Well, its definitely better than the istick. But, its worlds away from the sx mini. I have both and am happy with both. You can get 4 ipv minis for the cost of the sx mini so that's what you need to keep in mind. For $50 this is a decent mod. Its good for the budget conscious, for going to work, out and about or doing yard work, etc. But, don't expect a $200 mod for $50, and you won't be disappointed (unless yours is defective).
how common are defective ipv minis? like 50% chance i'll get one?
While in DC-DC mode, the SX130 chipset gives full boost capability of the battery voltage ... but does not give any buck capability
As I posted in this thread before .....
DC-DC mode selected for the test.
These results were tested with a Fluke digital multimeter attached to the coil attachment screws of my Kayfun which was fitted with a 1.3 ohm single coil.
The battery indicated a 3.8 volt charge at the beginning of the test.
You can see that the output voltage to the coil never goes below battery voltage (no buck capability) at low watts settings ... but output voltage goes well above battery voltage at high watt settings of the iPV Mini (boost capability).
Note: This Mini is pretty accurate too as long as it's operating at voltages above battery voltage
Case in point: I was using a 1.3 ohm coil. I selected 20 watts. If you look at ohms law, you need 5.1v to achieve the 20 watts on a 1.3 ohm load. Well, with 20 watts set in the Mini, the voltage display on the Mini read 5.1V (perfect) ..... and the actual voltage to the coil itself was actually shown to be 5.2v on the Fluke multimeter (see chart above).
As we used to say in the military ..... That's close enough for government work!
Sorry if this has already been Hashed Out.
But is IPV Mini only capable of outputting Battery Voltage (or Greater) in DC-DC Mode?
If there was a 50% Defective Rate on these IPV Mini's there would be a Angry Mod with Pitchforks Demanding that eLeaf Headquarters be Burned to the Ground.
I would Guess, from what I have seen, that it is No Better or No Worse than an Average Low Priced APV. Around 2%.
These devices are new to market. The earliest adopters are the most likely to get a bad one. One also has to take into account the "user error" element on new devices, like those adjusting their floating but otherwise non-adjusting 510 pins and breaking connections. Most likely, you'll be happy with your purchase since a number of lots have been produced without issues.
Yup ...
If you want anything below battery voltage (down to 3.0v), you need to be in PWM mode
That's BS, elev8 told me the same thing. I told them that it was unacceptable for a brand new device and to send me a brand new replacement or issue a refund. After 2 weeks of silence today, they emailed me early this AM and said they're sending me a brand new device.
If I have problems with this one I won't even deal with elev8 and take it up with my credit card company as they have a program for defective merchandise.
If their solution is not acceptable to you, push for a full refund and if they won't contact your payment provider/credit card company.
Gotcha... And that makes sense why Some people reported getting a Harsher Hit at Low Watts using DC-DC Mode vs. PWM.
The Key to this, and ANY hardware purchase, is to Know and Understand what the Return Policy is of who you buy from.
I tend to pay a Few Dollars more for thing like an APV if I can get it thru an ECF Registered Supplier that has a "No Hassle" return Policy.
I'm sorry but my IPV mini is right now bucking pretty accurately from 4.0V (battery voltage) down to 3.5V in DC-DC mode with a 0.7ohm atty.
It stays at 3.5 V with settings of 3.4, 3.3, .....on down.
I'm just saying.
Me too.
Unless......there's a lower limit for output Current. Or draw current from the battery. Or a lower limit for the relationship between one of those amperages and available battery voltage.
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