OMG!!! Genius, you sir are my hero. 1/2 turn and it sits flush. Thanks
iPV Mini?
- Thread starter cjpeltz
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
OMG!!! Genius, you sir are my hero. 1/2 turn and it sits flush. Thanks
.........
To bad on the down conversion. I guess that will come back to bite a few users. As to my reasons for purchasing, no problems. Mine are strictly for RBA/rda builds and so far loving the performance.
Only problem so far is remembering to change settings when I switch from a kayfun to one of the RDA's
Banging on some DIY Sugar Cookie in a Magma @ 25 watts, .6ohm build.
NONE - it is Spring loaded. The slot is to assist in passing Air for Bottom air flow devices(Carto Tanks/etc.)
Only problem so far is remembering to change settings when I switch from a kayfun to one of the RDA's
Banging on some DIY Sugar Cookie in a Magma @ 25 watts, .6ohm build.
NONE - it is Spring loaded. The slot is to assist in passing Air for Bottom air flow devices(Carto Tanks/etc.)
That can't be either because I can definitely feel the difference between the wattage settings
Time to Stop giving bad/poor advice. Someone is going to listen and damage a Device.
The Top pin IS spring loaded and NOT adjustable.
The power wire is soldered to the base of the screw and will Twist, possibly breaking off causing a short.
If you feel it is not recessing properly and are Brave, remove the side screws and see if the wire to the 510 pin is folded/pinched/etc.
The Top pin IS spring loaded and NOT adjustable.
The power wire is soldered to the base of the screw and will Twist, possibly breaking off causing a short.
If you feel it is not recessing properly and are Brave, remove the side screws and see if the wire to the 510 pin is folded/pinched/etc.
This is how I believe I ruined my Hana. It worked tonight, and I felt safe doing it as I've looked closely at my VT 510 and FDV 510 and saw how they could tolerate a small amount of tweaking. I would really like to see a fully adjustable 510, not sure how it could be done though.
BTW thanks for the internal pictures, first I've seen.
Last edited:
crxess is right ...
I just pulled the cover off my Mini and that brass center pin has a power wire soldered to it, as shown in that photo (the white wire)
If you use a screwdriver and turn that center pin too much (either way), it can pull on that white colored wire and possibly break the solder connection which could certainly cause a short circuit in your Mini.
If your lucky and it don't short circuit, you obviously have then lost total power to your atomizer with the broken connection.
Sorry for the bad advice I gave previously!
_______________________
BTW ... Once the cover was off, I turned my center pin a little which straightened out the white wire so it was not pulling at all on the solder joint.
I just pulled the cover off my Mini and that brass center pin has a power wire soldered to it, as shown in that photo (the white wire)
If you use a screwdriver and turn that center pin too much (either way), it can pull on that white colored wire and possibly break the solder connection which could certainly cause a short circuit in your Mini.
If your lucky and it don't short circuit, you obviously have then lost total power to your atomizer with the broken connection.
Sorry for the bad advice I gave previously!
_______________________
BTW ... Once the cover was off, I turned my center pin a little which straightened out the white wire so it was not pulling at all on the solder joint.
Last edited:
Flt Simulation, I wasn't pointing fingers in case you misunderstood. You were simply passing along information which you received and trusted to be correct. People get lucky once or twice and next thing everyone thinks it is the correct thing to do.
I simply wanted to let everyone know it really isn't a good idea to assume anything.
I'm crazy enough to leap, but I still look first.
The questions now are:
1) Will the SX330 V2S board fit?
2) If so, where to snag one?
+70 watt upgrade
I simply wanted to let everyone know it really isn't a good idea to assume anything.
I'm crazy enough to leap, but I still look first.
The questions now are:
1) Will the SX330 V2S board fit?
2) If so, where to snag one?
+70 watt upgrade
Last edited:
Well, I am certainly glad you straightened us out on that.
I appreciate it
__________________________
Well, at least I know what's inside this thing now ... looks pretty well made too (for the price)
I just hope the chipset holds up for the long-haul
I appreciate it
__________________________
Well, at least I know what's inside this thing now ... looks pretty well made too (for the price)
I just hope the chipset holds up for the long-haul
Last edited:
hi, i just upgraded to a ipv mini today. I had a aspire atlantis for a while which made me wanna upgrade to the ipv mini. Anyways, I've reading, for those who has problems with the screen being on for too long or been dim for a min. I found out a quick way to get the screen off when you're done vaping.
After you're done vaping and if the screen stays on for a long time
just change your watts by increasing it or decreasing it by .1 idk as if youre playing with it
then leave it there it should turn off within 10sec instead of 1 min
i know.. im really horrible at explaining
After you're done vaping and if the screen stays on for a long time
just change your watts by increasing it or decreasing it by .1 idk as if youre playing with it
then leave it there it should turn off within 10sec instead of 1 min
i know.. im really horrible at explaining
not for the faint or heart but I said F it and screwed an atty down until it was a couple mil from contacting the top cap and wrenched it over
but, it worked. nice and straight and I didn't foobar the threads lol.
not for the faint or heart but I said F it and screwed an atty down until it was a couple mil from contacting the top cap and wrenched it over
Absolutely right. All my atties and tanks sit flush, you just need to screw them in until they do, this 510 spring loaded connector has plenty of travel. But never ever try to adjust that 510 screw because this is not its function. IPV4YOU should have make it clear on instruction leaflet (my guess is they ran at first a beta batch with adjustable 510 contacts and then decided to change it to the more convenient spring system, but keeping the original pins instead of using new non screw ones.
then, what exactly is its function??? That is to say, what happens if one were to try and adjust it with a bit of a screwing, you know, by mistake?
It confuses people when they use slotted pins. It looks too much like a screw and the tendency is to try and adjust it.
If I multi-quoted correctly see the above picture of the inside of the IPV. Screwing on the 510 will eventually over turn the pos wire and break the connection. This what happened to my Hana. After looking at my FDV and VT 510's they appear to have the ability screw down a little, but I don't want to break the solder point. Note that they do not have a slot on the center pin itself, just been looking at them prior to installing them.
Who has it in stock using that XMAS 14 discount? I forgot and it will take awhile to go through the thread
Who has it in stock using that XMAS 14 discount? I forgot and it will take awhile to go through the thread
Elev8 Vape
They are only showing the black in stock at this time.
Thanks for that. Really. Yikes. I mean, even if you don't mistakenly take a driver to the not-screw 510 positive pin, seems like your normal everyday atomizer on -- atomizer off could just as easily twist that little guy into oblivion. Again, yikes.
I don't think that could happen just by screwing atty in and out, and even those screw in pin threads are usually inverted. This one is a great 510 connector. But a warning against the use of an screwdriver on it would had be a plus.
- Status
