iPV Mini?

[dravell]

A little ..... in the WPM, DO-DC armor

It Has NOTHING TO DO with Sub Ohm

Cartos(Carto tanks/etc.), Mini's, Clearos, Protanks..............Etc.Ect.etc All use thinner wire. DC-DC is more powerful and is going ot lite it FAST = Hot = Harsh
This is for that 1.7 up argument.
Now, kayfun @ 1.7 ohm, 28Ga WIRE works just Fine on DC-DC - I am running a few at 12watts. Carto would go Poof!!!
PWM is the Logical choice for basic Coil heads and Cartos.

Yes it DOES have a purpose for many, myself included. I don't want to break out a different mod just to enjoy my F16 tanks.
Yes For long Battery life you can sacrifice a bit of the smoothness of the vape by running PWM.

We will see how well it works once PB gets the Review posted.
eVic works rather nicely with PWM though it runs at a higher frequency.

Its ignoring your wattage altogether and going straight battery voltage when in DC-DC mode. YiHi calls it Bypass, the way P4U worded it it sounds like DC-DC is just giving you your wattage but in a flat (high freq PWM) signal and PWM is switching to low freq PWM signal, this isnt the case.
IF you have it on DC-DC youre getting your battery voltage, thats it. Thats why it seems so hot at lower wattges on certain things, becuse it ISNT that wattage.
If you want to run in regulated mode run PWM, if you want to basically use it as a protected mechanical, use the DC-DC mode.
This will be proven if Pbusardo reviews it and shows it on the scope.

 

[MegaVap]

I also liked how Sigelei described it for their new mini -

"This mod is unique in that you can switch off electronic functionality and use it as a mechanical mod. If you do so, it bypasses all the board circuitry and goes to DC-DC mode, thus letting you sub-ohm lower than the chip allows! "

In short - think of DC-DC as letting the Mini run "like" a mechanical mod.

If. This was the case then the IPV Mini couldn't boost the wattage if that what DC-DC means. But it does. What you and Sigelei are talking about is "bypass" mode which the IPV Mini does not have.

 

[dravell]

If. This was the case then the IPV Mini couldn't boost the wattage if that what DC-DC means. But it does. What you and Sigelei are talking about is "bypass" mode which the IPV Mini does not have.

Have you put a dripper or something on and actually looked to see if theres a difference in vapor from its lowest watt setting to 30w in DC mode?
Just curious, but it really sounds like their "DC-DC" mode IS just bypass. A 100hz PWM (what people consider a flat DC signal in vaping) signal is not going to burn things at 7w like it is on this. If anything 33hz low frequency PWM (what people consider PWM in vaping) is going to burn, not the other way around.

 

[inswva]

Have you put a dripper or something on and actually looked to see if theres a difference in vapor from its lowest watt setting to 30w in DC mode?
Just curious, but it really sounds like their "DC-DC" mode IS just bypass. A 100hz PWM (what people consider a flat DC signal in vaping) signal is not going to burn things at 7w like it is on this. If anything 33hz low frequency PWM (what people consider PWM in vaping) is going to burn, not the other way around.

I haven't put a dripper on mine but I can absolutely confirm that it hits weakly at the low wattage settings and chucks it at 30W with my Lemos in DC-DC. It may not step down properly and be overpowered at low wattage settings but it certainly isn't simply dumping battery voltage.

 

[dravell]

Gotcha, after hearing what it was doing I just figured that was the case.
Im definitely interested to see what its doing on the oscilloscope.

 

[IXIShogunR1]

ive done a little testing in DC-DC

.7ohm 26ga dual coil at 7w i barely get anything, at 30w i get way more vapor
so i dont think its doing the "bypass" thing at all seems like its just flat power instead of pulse

now if you wanna do this testing start at 7w with a cold coil
if i go from 30w to 7w after its warmed up from a couple hits the test doesn't work right and makes 7w look like 30w

 

[Flt Simulation]

While in DC-DC mode, the SX130 chipset gives full boost capability of the battery voltage ... but does not give any buck capability

As I posted in this thread before .....

DC-DC mode selected for the test.

These results were tested with a Fluke digital multimeter attached to the coil attachment screws of my Kayfun which was fitted with a 1.3 ohm single coil.

The battery indicated a 3.8 volt charge at the beginning of the test.

You can see that the output voltage to the coil never goes below battery voltage (no buck capability) at low watts settings ... but output voltage goes well above battery voltage at high watt settings of the iPV Mini (boost capability).

Note: This Mini is pretty accurate too as long as it's operating at voltages above battery voltage

Case in point: I was using a 1.3 ohm coil. I selected 20 watts. If you look at ohms law, you need 5.1v to achieve the 20 watts on a 1.3 ohm load. Well, with 20 watts set in the Mini, the voltage display on the Mini read 5.1V (perfect) ..... and the actual voltage to the coil itself was actually shown to be 5.2v on the Fluke multimeter (see chart above).

As we used to say in the military ..... That's close enough for government work!

 

[dravell]

While in DC-DC mode, the SX130 chipset gives full boost capability of the battery voltage ... but does not give any buck capability

As I posted in this thread before .....

DC-DC mode selected for the test.

These results were tested with a Fluke digital multimeter attached to the coil attachment screws of my Kayfun which was fitted with a 1.3 ohm single coil.

The battery indicated a 3.8 volt charge at the beginning of the test.

You can see that the output voltage to the coil never goes below battery voltage (no buck capability) at low watts settings ... but output voltage goes well above battery voltage at high watt settings of the iPV Mini (boost capability).

Bingo. That makes sense then.

 

[Evi|grin]

5watts DC-DC on a fully charged battery.
Atlantis .5ohm coil
Plenty of vapor

7watts same
10watts same
20watts same
25watts same
30watts same

Switch to PWM and repeat....its like night and day.

 

[Flt Simulation]

I would have liked to test the output voltage while in PWM mode, but unfortunately you can't get an accurate voltage reading on a digital voltmeter ... You need an oscilloscope (which I don't have).

I am convinced that in PWM mode, it will 'buck' (decrease voltage below battery power) ... at least down to 3.0v which is the advertised lowest volt limit that the iPV Mini will output.

 

[Evi|grin]

I would have to agree because in PWM mode at 20watts the Atlantis barely produces any vapor. At about 25watts it starts waking up quite a bit. Not awesome at 25watt PWM but not bad.

 

[Flt Simulation]

Since the SX130 is not capable of decreasing output voltage below battery voltage in DC-DC mode ... It's nice that we have the option to switch to PWM mode for coil ohm / watt combos that require less than battery voltage.

Personally, I like the vape better while using DC-DC, so since I like vaping at 10 watts, I just make sure I have a coil that is of at least 1.7 ohms or greater ... that will then require a voltage of at least 4.1v (which is at or above the batteries voltage at any given charge)

Hey, this Mini is capable of outputting up to 8.0 volts, as long as it don't hit it's amp limit first (which it more than likely will).

 

[Evi|grin]

I hoping the Nautilus will be fine on it in DC-DC mode. 4.2v at 1.6ohm is only 11watts. So it should have no problems running at a fairly accurate 11watts no matter the actual state of the battery voltage.

Kinda hope Aspire comes out with the Atlantis coils in .8-1ohm too. Im not a huge fan of running a device at its minimum ohm limit.

 

[blahzx]

anyone's ohm on the ipv mini reads lower .1-.2 lower than the actual ohm reader?

 

[jefsview]

anyone's ohm on the ipv mini reads lower .1-.2 lower than the actual ohm reader?

yes.... it's true...

 

[blahzx]

ohh i thought it was a defect or just me. i just notice it when i was rebuilding my rda

 

[Art Mustel]

yes.... it's true...

Optimist I am?

What iif its meter is more accurate that those little boxes that we use to measure resistance?

 

[Flt Simulation]

I used a very accurate Fluke multimeter when I tested mine ... The display on the Mini was always 0.2 - 0.3 ohms lower than what the Fluke displayed.

 

[nelsonm64]

I also liked how Sigelei described it for their new mini -

"This mod is unique in that you can switch off electronic functionality and use it as a mechanical mod. If you do so, it bypasses all the board circuitry and goes to DC-DC mode, thus letting you sub-ohm lower than the chip allows! "

In short - think of DC-DC as letting the Mini run "like" a mechanical mod.

it's my opinion that when in DC-DC mode it just dumps whatever power the battery has, no regulation. atleast no step down *buck*

 

[folkphys]

This morning's experimental-ness:

IPVmini Mode = DC-DC
Battery Voltage (measured while out of the IPVmini with a DMM) = 3.75V
Atomizer Coil = 0.5 Ohms (IPV and DMM measured same; 0.55 measured on an SX350 mod)
IPVmini Wattage setting = 22.9W
IPVmini Output Voltage Readout = 3.5V
In-Line Voltmeter Readout = 3.56V

Do I know exactly what this means? No. Because I have no idea how these chips work. But some dirty algebra with Ohm's Law gives me an output wattage calculation of 23W with a 0.55ohm resistance and 3.56V output, so based on that, the IPVmini seems to be cutting the available battery voltage in order to fulfill my desired output wattage setting.

I just lowered the IPV's wattage setting down to 19.9W and it displays an output voltage of 3.2V, but the in-line meter reads 3.31V.....so there's that.

At 25.1W IPV the says 3.6V, in-line meter reads 3.66V
At 30.0W, the IPV says 4.0V which is more than the available battery voltage, in-line meter reads 4.04V and it tastes gross

Obviously, I can't do this with any kind of usefulness in PWM mode, because my in-line Voltmeter will just display a bunch of flashing gobbleTgook. On account of its Width Modulated Pulsing output signal.