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My vote would be for the high watt regulated device. I love my kayfuns on my DNA 30 device.
I personally enjoy the ease of being able to replace my battery on my mech every hour and only takes 5 seconds, got 4 batterys on rotation so always full charge and full power. the ivp2 is a great device and if it had a magnetic backing I would say go for it, but it has screws with only a single battery.. so if your going to be vaping high wattage the battery might not last you all day unless your near a charger.
You'd be best/safer, learning to build on a regulated mod, plus with the 50 watt and 100 watt mods, don't need to go sub ohm to get a sub ohm vape
One can't just build a rba and expect it to vape great at high watts. Takes time, practice, and understanding the characteristics of the fiber being used to wick with, balancing air wick and power. Takes a fair bit of skill and finesse to be able to build and vape at 30 watts, let alone 50-100 watts.
A 30 watt vape would be comparable to a 0.50 ohm build on a mech. Personally, own more mechs than regulated mods. Mechs are more elegant and simplistic, less things to go wrong, but easier to screw up if one doesn't know what they are doing. Do love me 100 watt box mods, and looking forward to the 150 to show up.
Apparently I prefer mech's over reg's, but learned to build on a reg. Had no choice but to go mech if one wanted more than 20 watts, just a year ago.
I'd go with the box, at least 50 watts worth, learn your coils & wicks, then maybe think about mechs. Or get both, backups or collection gathering. Yeah, get both.
Vape long andacquireProsper.!!!!!
One can't just build a rba and expect it to vape great at high watts. Takes time, practice, and understanding the characteristics of the fiber being used to wick with, balancing air wick and power. Takes a fair bit of skill and finesse to be able to build and vape at 30 watts, let alone 50-100 watts.
A 30 watt vape would be comparable to a 0.50 ohm build on a mech. Personally, own more mechs than regulated mods. Mechs are more elegant and simplistic, less things to go wrong, but easier to screw up if one doesn't know what they are doing. Do love me 100 watt box mods, and looking forward to the 150 to show up.
Apparently I prefer mech's over reg's, but learned to build on a reg. Had no choice but to go mech if one wanted more than 20 watts, just a year ago.
I'd go with the box, at least 50 watts worth, learn your coils & wicks, then maybe think about mechs. Or get both, backups or collection gathering. Yeah, get both.
Vape long and
I went from a mech mod to an IPV3 and I don't use my mech mod too often anymore. And no, I don't run it at 150w daily of course, I actually only run it at 50w-60w(if I want a warmer flavorful vape), but I built my coil at .3 ohms with a dual 8 wrap 24g kanthal and it vapes like a dream. No problems in the cloud department. There is just overall more head room for you to build and learn on a regulated mod rather than a mech mod, if you fall short of your resistance goal, you can easily adjust the watts to make it for it. On a mech mod, if it isn't drawing enough power or its drawing too much power, you have to rebuild the coils. Not that its that much of a bad thing because you'd be getting more practice in making nice coils.
1. Don't get the IPV2...get the IPV2s!!
2. Get the best of both worlds--order an IVP2s along with a $20 mech clone (I recommend a well-reviewed stainless mech for those starting out).
3. Make sure you get a decent kayfun clone. For example, the ehpro clone has been good to me. The kayfun featured on focal ecig has been goood too and comes with the nano kit and both steel and pmmc middle sections. My tobeco clone is functional junk.
4. For the 1/2 the price off the IVP2s you can get a cloupor hana clone which will drive your kayfuns. If you're thinking of stepping up to RDAs and sub ohming, then the IVP2s or IVP3 is the better long-term investment.
2. Get the best of both worlds--order an IVP2s along with a $20 mech clone (I recommend a well-reviewed stainless mech for those starting out).
3. Make sure you get a decent kayfun clone. For example, the ehpro clone has been good to me. The kayfun featured on focal ecig has been goood too and comes with the nano kit and both steel and pmmc middle sections. My tobeco clone is functional junk.
4. For the 1/2 the price off the IVP2s you can get a cloupor hana clone which will drive your kayfuns. If you're thinking of stepping up to RDAs and sub ohming, then the IVP2s or IVP3 is the better long-term investment.
And... there is no need to sub-ohm with these high wattage regulated devices. They actually perform better if the builds are in the 1.2 - 1.5 ohm range.
With the higher resistance the device has to put out more voltage to achieve the desired wattage. People sub-ohm all the time on these devices (DNA-30, Ipv, etc) for no reason at all. And... you won't be able to run a stock kayfun on extreme wattage. I've found that my kayfuns run best at 1.5 ohm and 15 watts on my DNA-30 device. Some people run them higher - in the 20's, but above 30w the kayfun is past it's limits.
Agreed. Sub-Ohm compatibility is nice if you're swapping atties from your mech to your regulated device. But if your regulated device is your primary, you'll want to build everything north of 1.5 Ohms.
I generally build so will get a great vape whether it's on a mech or a regulated, with the ability to push it higher on the regulated. But the more coils and lower ones ohms, the more voltage drop one experiences on both. I generally prefer 60-75 watts, and yeah, built right, a Russian/Kayfun can handle 70 watts.
Though to get the most watts out of many of these boxes, one does need to hit the sub ohm zone. On the T6, the most a 1.16 ohm build can go is 74 watts, on the Sigelei 100, the most it can go is like 60 watts on the same build. Still need understanding of ohms law, and capabilities of device, to get the most out of them.
Vape long and Prosper.!!!
Though to get the most watts out of many of these boxes, one does need to hit the sub ohm zone. On the T6, the most a 1.16 ohm build can go is 74 watts, on the Sigelei 100, the most it can go is like 60 watts on the same build. Still need understanding of ohms law, and capabilities of device, to get the most out of them.
Vape long and Prosper.!!!
Nice pickup! I think you've the right choice. I think the reason people would want to build with higher resistance because you'd be able to create clouds optimally (as in you can save battery for same or near same amount of clouds). I only have 24 gauge kanthol on me so I've been doing sub ohm builds with my IPV3.
I did a pile of research between the Sigelei 100, IPV2, and IPV3, just couldn't decide on which one to get. I did decide on the IPV2 and have it sitting at the parcel depot in Idaho so I won't be able to get it till Saturday.
The one thing or hassle that I came across with dual battery mods is you should have to have married batteries. I can't be bothered with constantly having to keep track of what batts have to stay together. For me a single battery mod would be easier to manage.
The other thing is that I'm just a vaper, not interested in competition style cloud making so 50 watts is plenty enough for me.
The one thing or hassle that I came across with dual battery mods is you should have to have married batteries. I can't be bothered with constantly having to keep track of what batts have to stay together. For me a single battery mod would be easier to manage.
The other thing is that I'm just a vaper, not interested in competition style cloud making so 50 watts is plenty enough for me.
I'd have to disagree. As an owner of many mechanical mods, as well as the ipv2S I can tell you the battery efficiency is quite impressive from the ipv. I normally will easily go through two 18650's in a day using my mechs, but have been able to get over two days of usage out of my ipv2S, which is no small feat. I was impressed to say the least
Couldn't agree more, I absolutely love my new IPV2S. It's much more sleek and portable when compared to the ipv3, has a functioning touch sensor which the ipv3 doesn't, comes with the charging cable which the ipv3 doesn't, comes out of the box able to reach 60 watts and there is already a firmware released by the maker to allow it to go up to 75 watts (it may be 70, not sure which bc I've read conflicting reports from vendors). Also, I find the second battery as well as the 150 W range of the ipv3 totally unnecessary (just imo of course)since I'm already getting over two days of battery life consistently from my ipv2S. Saying this is a welcome change would be a substantial understatement, since I'm coming from mech mods, where I'd easily chug through two 18650's daily.
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