IPV3 Loose 510 connection

[skale240]

Hi All! Just wanted to give a brief intro before I describe my problem.

I've been a long time reader of this forum and always include "ecig forum" on my Google searches when researching vape stuff. I've been vaping for about 2 years now and have successfully quit smoking for the past 8 months. I started vaping with an Ego, then moved to a variable, then settled down to mech mods.

I purchased an P4U IPV3 last week and everything was great until I started noticing the resistance and voltage jumping up, which resulted in a nasty burnt vape taste. I read the IPV3 thread and saw someone had a similar problem with a loose 510 connection. Sure enough that's what is happening to mine. I tested a bunch of different attys I had and all came with the same result. I made sure the atty was screwed on good but not overly tight. That temporarily solved the problem.

This morning before I left work work, I started unscrewing my Kanger subtank and the whole 510 connection came out!! The wire is still connected but I'm bummed out. No threads on the 510 connector so I'm assuming they just glued it in. Anyone else experience this?

I've got pics but can't post them.

 

[mutudintei]

Hi All! Just wanted to give a brief intro before I describe my problem.

I've been a long time reader of this forum and always include "ecig forum" on my Google searches when researching vape stuff. I've been vaping for about 2 years now and have successfully quit smoking for the past 8 months. I started vaping with an Ego, then moved to a variable, then settled down to mech mods.

I purchased an P4U IPV3 last week and everything was great until I started noticing the resistance and voltage jumping up, which resulted in a nasty burnt vape taste. I read the IPV3 thread and saw someone had a similar problem with a loose 510 connection. Sure enough that's what is happening to mine. I tested a bunch of different attys I had and all came with the same result. I made sure the atty was screwed on good but not overly tight. That temporarily solved the problem.

This morning before I left work work, I started unscrewing my Kanger subtank and the whole 510 connection came out!! The wire is still connected but I'm bummed out. No threads on the 510 connector so I'm assuming they just glued it in. Anyone else experience this?

I've got pics but can't post them.

I got a similar issue with my ipv3 , i have many attys and the treads are like very loose on the device , especialy my kraken , i cant even tread it in no more ....its like the treads are gone on the device and i have it for like a month...
Is there a solution to this or like a replacement for the treads??

 

[drunkenbatman]

This morning before I left work work, I started unscrewing my Kanger subtank and the whole 510 connection came out!! The wire is still connected but I'm bummed out. No threads on the 510 connector so I'm assuming they just glued it in. Anyone else experience this?

I've got pics but can't post them.

That's a serious bummer dude, 3 weeks for that is pretty crappy, and I have a feeling the return/warranty process isn't great. Thanks for sharing it though -- it's the sorta thing people can use to look for patterns if others are reporting it. If it's just the actual connection, it make be fixable if you're stiffed on the warranty and once have pics I'm sure you'll get suggestions (most involving jb-weld). After 5 or so posts you can post pics.

I got a similar issue with my ipv3 , i have many attys and the treads are like very loose on the device , especialy my kraken , i cant even tread it in no more ....its like the treads are gone on the device and i have it for like a month...
Is there a solution to this or like a replacement for the treads??

This happens a lot -- the 510s are often a softer aluminum or such. Here are a few tricks:

1. If it isn't super bad and you won't be removing it much, you can use a strip of aluminum foil around the base of the atty to help fill in the gaps and provide grip.

2. Buy a 510-to-510 adapter, and run some crazy/gorilla/jb-weld around the outside threads, and screw it into the old one. Note: you don't want any epoxy/glue on the bottom of the adapter, unless you get the more expensive silver & conductive stuff.

 

[skale240]

That's a serious bummer dude, 3 weeks for that is pretty crappy, and I have a feeling the return/warranty process isn't great. Thanks for sharing it though -- it's the sorta thing people can use to look for patterns if others are reporting it. If it's just the actual connection, it make be fixable if you're stiffed on the warranty and once have pics I'm sure you'll get suggestions (most involving jb-weld). After 5 or so posts you can post pics.

Thanks for the input. I thought it was kind of weird when I first put my atty on the IPV3 that it had a little wobble. It was very little but the threads looked good. I tried with another atty and got the same result. I didn't think much of it but now when I put two and two together, I bet the 510 connection wasn't seated or glued in very well. Since the 510 connection is out, I've confirmed it's not the threads on the 510 as it screws in pretty tight. I popped it back in and tried using it but it keeps working it's way out and it's causing the voltage and resistance to jump.

I tried calling the warranty here in the US today and was told the guy that handled warranty issues was on vacation but back on Monday.

 

[skale240]

I got a similar issue with my ipv3 , i have many attys and the treads are like very loose on the device , especialy my kraken , i cant even tread it in no more ....its like the treads are gone on the device and i have it for like a month...
Is there a solution to this or like a replacement for the treads??

Oh man that sucks. Looks like they don't cover stripped threads in the warranty either. Hopefully there is a way you can repair it!

 

[skale240]

Here are the pics:

 

[drunkenbatman]

Ooof mate, yeah looking around this is looking like a pretty messed up model. If I were in your shoes, I'd start the return process ASAP via where you bought it/asmodus -- and if you get the runaround in any way contact your credit card company. It's possible you had a weird batch, but if that's the design... ooof.

It looks like those are just glued, press-fit or both. If for some reason everything goes south with the company and credit card, someone with some basic electronic skills can probably fix it by checking the wiring and soldering, then using some jb-weld where it's fitted at the top and a big glob of non-conductive epoxy on the inside after you remove the black plastic piece.

 

[MattB101]

If mine does that and it has shown no sign of it yet, I'll just replace it with a fat daddy vapes 510 myself. Guaranteed fix. Not hard to do if you have room in the mod and modicum of skills.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[Kloverz158]

How I feel about this is you should start the return process at the price we pay this should of not happen. True maybe it was a bad batch but dont keep it and try to rig it yourself. But its your choice I hope you get a new IPV3 or atleast your $$ back.

 

[BoomerFZ1]

Man I have to admit I'd be torn if this were me. Knowing how great the Fat Daddy connector is, I'd most likely get that sucker on there even if you have to take it to a B&M vape shop to have it done. If you like everything else about this device, simply adding the FDV 510 would make it that much better. But there's definitely a strong reason to return it if you can.

 

[dcannon1]

I know this thread is a couple of weeks old, but was wondering what you ended up doing OP?

Having the exact same issue myself.

I can still snap the connector back into place and it still seems to work.

Can anyone recommend someone who could do the Fat Daddy Vapes swap out on the 510 for a few bucks? I'd rather spend a few bucks to have the issue fixed with basically an upgrade rather than deal with what I'm sure is a less than ideal warranty process.

 

[killahz]

I've had the same issue. What is the best epoxy?

I know this thread is a couple of weeks old, but was wondering what you ended up doing OP?

Having the exact same issue myself.

I can still snap the connector back into place and it still seems to work.

Can anyone recommend someone who could do the Fat Daddy Vapes swap out on the 510 for a few bucks? I'd rather spend a few bucks to have the issue fixed with basically an upgrade rather than deal with what I'm sure is a less than ideal warranty process.

 

[drunkenbatman]

I've had the same issue. What is the best epoxy?

Since I believe it doesn't need to be conductive, it's really hard to go wrong with jb-weld. If you've never used it before, it's about $6 for two tubes, and is basically a thickener + iron dust that have a fun chemical reaction. Once cured will be good up to 500F. I know, I'm turned on right now too. Otherwise, something like a good superglue will be removable with acetone if you decide later you'll want to drill things out and add a different connection.

However, that doesn't account for any weirdness that may have been done to the solder joints by the 510 getting yanked out, etc. as once this stuff starts happening people have noticed wonky connections to the atomizer/ohm readings/etc.

And yeah, this issue is simply ridiculous and it's even more ridiculous that it hasn't been fixed.

 

[killahz]

Thank you drunkenbatman!

 

[drunkenbatman]

You're welcome, citizen!

 

[dcannon1]

Since I believe it doesn't need to be conductive, it's really hard to go wrong with jb-weld. If you've never used it before, it's about $6 for two tubes, and is basically a thickener + iron dust that have a fun chemical reaction. Once cured will be good up to 500F. I know, I'm turned on right now too. Otherwise, something like a good superglue will be removable with acetone if you decide later you'll want to drill things out and add a different connection.

However, that doesn't account for any weirdness that may have been done to the solder joints by the 510 getting yanked out, etc. as once this stuff starts happening people have noticed wonky connections to the atomizer/ohm readings/etc.

And yeah, this issue is simply ridiculous and it's even more ridiculous that it hasn't been fixed.

Just tried the JB Weld fix on mine. Had some of the dual tube stuff in the tool box. Didn't realize it was rated to such a high temp. Painted it on around the underside of the connection that makes contact with the body with a toothpick. Not a lot of contact areas to apply it. Honestly, I'm not really sure how it was held in there to begin with.

Will report back in 24 hours to let you guys know if it works.

 

[drunkenbatman]

Just tried the JB Weld fix on mine. Had some of the dual tube stuff in the tool box. Didn't realize it was rated to such a high temp. Painted it on around the underside of the connection that makes contact with the body with a toothpick. Not a lot of contact areas to apply it. Honestly, I'm not really sure how it was held in there to begin with.

Will report back in 24 hours to let you guys know if it works.

Nog, it's up to 500F constant and 600F for 10 minutes; they've got a high-temp putty stick for other stuff. Looking forward to hearing how it goes, as I recall it's 4-6 hours for the initial cure, then 15 hours for full hardening that can be speeded up with heat lamps and such.

To anyone else who does this, I highly suggest following the instructions for it: cleaning both areas with soap and water, then roughen both areas with a coarse sandpaper or equivalent. What feels normal or such to us is actually microscopic nooks and crannies for it to get the best weld. Love that stuff, used it to fix a pair of Grados just last week.

 

[skale240]

I didn't call it in for warranty. I just bought a new 510 connection from varitube.com and am going to tap the threads in on the IPV3. I don't want the same thing to happen so I figured i'd fix it right. I'll keep you posted man hang in there. It sucks not being able to use it.

 

[skale240]

Posted this in the IPV3 owners discussion thread as well:

All my parts came in today so the fun began:

I ended up buying the FDV 510 connector because he had the taps in stock. Unfortunately, varitube.com sold out of taps and I couldn't find a store that had the size tap required.

Here are the guts of the IPV3:



I cut the existing 510 connector off and tapped the hole:





Next I soldered the FDV 510 pin to the wire:



Here it is all put back together:







I liked the look of the 22mm 510 over the 15.5mm since it made it flush with the atty:



So far it's running perfect. No wobble on the atty and no voltage jumps! I hope this helps anyone in the future that happens to run into the problem I had.

I'm going to put magnets on the door now too!

 

[TopCatJimi]

Awesome .. great pics and I kinda like the look it gives .. Im thinking of doing the same except using the smaller 510 and making it flush with top of box .. looks like there is plenty of room .. ps. Im going to do this on my ipv2x