ipv4 temp build help

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hambone0424

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Apr 10, 2015
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I have 26 g nickel a lil big in my opinion it is tempered as well my local vape shop gave it to me for free i tryed a dual coil build last night i did 2 15 wraps over 3.5 mm id in my troll rda just not getting nice hits like i thought any ideas of what i could im not set in stone on this build i will rip out and restart if someone has a nicer build for me to try
 

AwaxJago

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Apr 29, 2014
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Helpful info to include would be ohms, temp & J settings
I just got some 28g ni200 wire last weekend and haven't gotten to mess around too much.
.
I've only done two set ups, & the first was a single coil ~ worked fine for what it was, but altogether forgettable.

What I've been running now is a dual coil build. 12 wraps of Ni200 28g, evenly spaced (mostly, not touching at least), reading at .07 ohms when I "set resistance" (I've got 4 drill bits, 2 sizes, no idea the dimensions, but I used the smaller ones).

I'm using a little boy with the 510 drip tip adapter @ 435F and 35 J ~ gives warm vape, airy draw, and plenty of clouds.
I sometimes run it with the wide bore tip @455F @ 45 J ~ more wide open, plenty of clouds.
It's been a week and it's a little gunked up and time for new coils.

Trouble shooting tips ~ be sure the coil legs are firmly connected to posts. Be sure to "set resistance" when the coils are room temperature. After that I set temp to 400F and power to 20J to start, worked my way up in 5F increments to find heat preference, and then played with J setting to get first draw experience I wanted.

Hope that helps



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hambone0424

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Apr 10, 2015
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Well first off thank you im using the kanger subtank mini stock occ nickel head at 28J 420F says dry i went 10J 20J 30J all at 500 450 and 510F i now took the rda wrapped up a .1 it read .147 i believe at room temp on ipv4 still said dry i tyed a ton of diferwnt settings nothing would work i took the tank off fired says check atty i put kanger on fired it at 30J 500F but did not reset risistance this time it says resistance is set at .32 but it fires the coil with no problem doesnt say dry i bought it from a shop it has all warranty info and the whole seller gives warranty as well so im going there tomorrow the guy i deal with is very knowlegable hes on the forum as well so ima see if he can show me how to fix it or replace it or something is goin on that the evic my dad has reads and fires it all no problem
 

AwaxJago

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Apr 29, 2014
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Oh weird ~ hopefully they can get it sorted.

For informations sake, I tried two new builds tonight.

First I twisted 24g kenthal with 28g Ni200, dual coil, chucked like a mother, but I think the kenthal had the lower resistance, so the tc didn't seem to work... _/([emoji102])\_ could be wrong

Second I did 30g kenthal with 28 g Ni ~ chucking well and temp control is working..


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Caterpiller

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....
First I twisted 24g kenthal with 28g Ni200, dual coil, chucked like a mother, but I think the kenthal had the lower resistance, so the tc didn't seem to work... _/([emoji102])\_ could be wrong.
...

Even if you took a 5mm length off kanthal and ran it straight from the positve post to the negative, it would still have more resistance than a 10 wrap, 2.5mm ID, 28g Nickel coil.

(I really don't suggest you try this, it's just an illistration of the low resistance of nickel) :)
 
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hambone0424

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I got it working i dont know how but i stopped resetting my resistance so it fired my atty at .3 then i reset it with kanger and it worked after keep tinkering now its working pretty well i guess but im using rda section of kanger with nickel build of .1 reads .11 .12 at times but its firing n not burning not producing clouds all that great but the flavor is nice need a better build to get the flavor i guess bc i think flavor is better with certain kanthal builds
 
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AwaxJago

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Apr 29, 2014
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Even if you took a 5mm length off kanthal and ran it straight from the positve post to the negative, it would still have more resistance than a 10 wrap, 2.5mm ID, 28g Nickel coil.

(I really don't suggest you try this, it's just an illistration of the low resistance of nickel) :)

Sweet, good to know ~ I didn't really know how to tell if the tc was working or not. With the second build I turned the temp way down and hit tc ~ but that was the first time.


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AwaxJago

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Apr 29, 2014
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@hambone0424 ~ glad it's working, hopefully you get it figured. I've been using the big subtank with the replaceable Ni coils. The resistant seems to drop after the first session and then settle in .11. I've got it set to 401F, 29.8J with .11 ohms; amd am pretty happy.

I'm really liking the subtank w/Ni, because hassle free. I get good clouds and no mess or leaky air holes. With the subtank and kenthal I'd get the odd dry hit from it not wicking fast enough, but it hasn't happened with the Ni coils yet. Basically, similar (to me) experience as my fogger 4 or orchids with less work involved at every stage o_O


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chopdoc

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Aug 30, 2014
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I am using the IPV4 with a Kanger STM. The RBA coil is 26 AWG Ni200 on a 3mm drill bit, 8 wraps. On the tester it read .09 ohms. Wicked it with Rayon and juiced the coil up and the ohm reading dropped to .06 ohms. Filled the tank and put it on the IPV 4 and the initial firing took it down to .05 ohms and it stayed there. Vaping it at 30j, 450 F and its has tons of clouds and great flavor.
 

hambone0424

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Apr 10, 2015
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Pittsburgh,PA
I gotta tweak my build its running great now but just not getting the flavor getting decent to nice vape jus not the flavor i was expecting i also put a temp build in my freakshow mini n its putting out nice flavor and vapor used 28 g 2.5 mm id not sure on wraps i believe 8 around .14 ohm range i believe
I was way off 11 wraps
.147 on ipv4
 
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